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Ford Jubilee dies after running 15 mins

D

DJ53jubilee

New User
Hello ALL,
I am having an issue with my Jubilee. I had an issue with it not starting 1 day. Weak spark seemed to be the issue. New plugs, rotor, cap, points, coil and resistor. No luck. Decided to take out the resistor and it fired right up. Put the resistor back in died right away. Put back in the old coil same thing ran fine without the resistor.

About 25 hours of run time later i am having issue with it dying after running maybe 15 mins. After looking around on this forum it seems as if my coil might be going bad. I have jumped the coil directly to the battery to eliminate any wiring issues. same results. Thought it could be a gas flow issue removed the carb cleaned it out. I also took off drain plug under carb and the gas flowed out strong. Emptied out a gallon just to make sure it cleared the bowl and was dumping from the tank.

Do i need to replace the coil and resistor again? im afraid to use a coil without the resistor in case i need to remove the resistor again to get it to run.

Any thoughts on what to do or check next?

Thanks
Dennis
 
ASSUMING this is a 12 Volt conversion, get a "true" 12 Volt coil that does NOT need an external resistor and move forwards.

Verify that the voltage on the switch side of the coil is very close to battery voltage.

If the ignition switch is failing, or there's a poor connection or two in the wiring between the battery and the coil, there'll be a significant voltage drop between the battery and the coil, something that COULD have possibly started this whole issue.
 
I HAVE JUMPED THE COIL DIRECTLY TO THE BATTERY AFTER IT STARTS. SAME ISSUE RUNS WITHOUT THE RESISTOR BUT DIES AFTER 15 MINS
 

Also, check the cap and rotor to be sure the center tab on the rotor is touching the cap's center carbon terminal, and check that the high tension coil wire is bot "open" and that it's firmly plugged in at both ends.
 
Ive had issues with cars in the past of the rotor not contacting the cap so when i installed them i bend the contact up so it makes good contact but will check it again.
i will check the coil to cap wire to see its seated correctly.

Thanks for the help!!
 
Dennis, a little history would help here. Because you are talking about a resistor, it must be a 12 volt conversion using a 6 volt coil. How long did it run well after the conversion? Did the no start/weak spark problem just show up out of the blue? How many ohms is that resister? From what you are saying, it sounds like you can get the tractor running without the resistor, but something,(coil, condenser) is overheating after 15 minutes due too much current draw. I know it will cost a few more bucks, but I would do what Bob said, and go with a 12 volt coil that says "no resister required" on it.
 
"Decided to take out the resistor and it fired right up. Put the resistor back in died right away. Put back in the old coil same thing ran fine without the resistor."

With those symptoms two possibilities are:

1. Using a resistor with a direct "12 volt no external resistor required" coil

2. Using 6 volt coil with alternator conversion resistor that has a resistance far exceeding 1 1/2 ohms
 
Sorry for the lack of history behind this issue.
i bought the tractor with the conversion already done. ive had the tractor over 6 years now n this issue started just a few months ago.
im not sure if the coil on it was 12 or 6 volts but replaced it with a 12 volt coil since the original problem arose. but both coils act the same at this point.
The not starting issue came out of the blue. parked it in the back of the house 1 day n it wouldn't start the next morning.
I dont know the resistor value but the parts were purchased from this site so i assume it is correct.
we are expecting up to a foot of snow this weekend so i am picking up a coil locally and will order the "no resistor required" coil to change out when i get it.
thanks for your help I will post back after i put on the new coil n condenser.
 
I hope you get it running in time for snow removal. Here is what I think happened. 1. The 6 volt coil went bad. 2. You replaced that with a 12 volt coil that needed a resistor but the resister you had was designed for the 6 volt coil so was causing a weak spark with the new 12 volt coil. 3. When you bypassed the resistor the tractor would run, but was too hot because it still needed a resistor but not that one.
 
(quoted from post at 15:56:15 01/10/20) I hope you get it running in time for snow removal. Here is what I think happened. 1. The 6 volt coil went bad. 2. You replaced that with a 12 volt coil that needed a resistor but the resister you had was designed for the 6 volt coil so was causing a weak spark with the new 12 volt coil. 3. When you bypassed the resistor the tractor would run, but was too hot because it still needed a resistor but not that one.
Click to expand...

A 6 volt coil and a coil made to be used with an external resistor in a 12 volt circuit are the same. They both have approximately 1.5 ohms of resistance across the primary, and 12 volt coils that do not require an external resistor measures around 3 ohms. Pretty much all ballast resistors are 1.5 ohms so that when you put them in series with the 1.5 ohms of the primary of the coil the total of the circuit is 3.0 ohms, and in a 12 volt circuit the resistor causes a voltage drop of about 6 volts resulting in about 6 volts across the coil.
 
Put the new coil on today. 1 with internal resistance. Changed the points n condenser also.
Runs a lot better but seems like its misfirinbg after awhile. At least it stays running now.
gonna adjust the carb next n see what happens but that will be another day.
Thanks for all the help!!
 
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