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861 power master fuel shut off valve problems

B

Blueox4

Member
Well, of course today for some reason the screw that shuts off my fuel under the tank fell out completely while I was plowing. Fuel spilling out pretty good. Tractor stalled. I put a ball point pen cap in there and was able to start it and get it in the garage.

1) does anyone know the screw size so I can get a replacement screw if possible? It never leaked before if only unscrewed a couple turns.

2) if option 1 is not possible is it possible to replace the whole valve without pulling the tank or manifold?

Thanks for any help with this. Had to happen at worst time.
cvphoto43495.jpg
 
I've never seen the stem (screw) sold as a seperate item. The fuel shutoff valve can be removed and replaced without pulling the tank or manifold. There's plenty of info in the archives regarding the fuel shutoff valve.
 
here's a link to a picture thread associated with these valves - they are a reoccurring common problem - they can be replaced without removing the gas tank, but it helps if you are dentist (small nimble fingers) - since you a missing a special part I think you need to stir up a new valve (or find a used one to rebuild) - as a stop gap it might be possible to tap the two holes to pipe plug thread, plug them, and finish your plowing, but for all the fussing it would take, I'd find a new valve -
Untitled URL Link
 

It is not necessary to remove the tank or manifold. You can loosen the tank in order to raise it a little, then remove the valve cover. It just rolls out.
 
As a quicker option, if I have to plow before I can replace the whole valve which I just ordered, can I fill the hole with a plug of JB WELD?
 
Have never seen a replacement shut off. Probable a new assembly would be your best bet. Taking the valve cover off gives a little more room when replacing that shutoff. JB weld might work if you thought you could get enough in it before plugging the gas routing itself.
 
(quoted from post at 16:48:23 12/02/19) As a quicker option, if I have to plow before I can replace the whole valve which I just ordered, can I fill the hole with a plug of JB WELD?
Click to expand...


I think that I would whittle a piece of wood to fit before trying anything that you need to have stick. There is special patching material for gas tank leaks but you need to find it first.
 
I found a nice round maple twig that I sanded down the bark a bit and wrapped the end a couple inches down in a piece of plastic and pushed about an
inch or so in the valve and that was finally able to stop all dripping and the tractor will run if I need to plow the driveway. I have a replacement valve on
the way and will properly replace it as soon as I can.

If I loosen those bolts holding the gas tank down will it raise a bit more to help facilitate installing the new valve? I don?t want to have t remove the cowl
or the valve cover on the engine if I don?t have to.

Thanks for all the help too!
 
(quoted from post at 09:34:59 12/03/19) I found a nice round maple twig that I sanded down the bark a bit and wrapped the end a couple inches down in a piece of plastic and pushed about an
inch or so in the valve and that was finally able to stop all dripping and the tractor will run if I need to plow the driveway. I have a replacement valve on
the way and will properly replace it as soon as I can.

If I loosen those bolts holding the gas tank down will it raise a bit more to help facilitate installing the new valve? I don?t want to have t remove the cowl
or the valve cover on the engine if I don?t have to.

Thanks for all the help too!
Click to expand...


Blueox, as I posted earlier, no need to remove the hood. There are two bolts in the rear and one in the front. I loosen the ones in the rer a little and then the front one wiy the spring probably a half inch. Then as I posted earlier the valve cover easily rolls out giving you plenty of room.
 

I take the front bolts out of the frond dog legs then the front and rear bolts that retain the fuel tank support to the engine, lift the front of the hood up and wedge a wood block between the valve cover and fuel tank. If I did anything to the rear hood bolts I don't remember it other than it was not bad to do once I raised the hood and tank up...
 
This worked. Now it?s not leaking and the gas is flowing! If I put a cutoff before the carb I probably don?t have to replace the valve. I want to be able to cutoff fuel flow again but until then I?ll just put in enough fuel to plow the driveway so hopefully it won?t flow past the carb.
 
The fuel valve can be removed and replaced without removing the hood, tank, or anything but the fuel line if you have the OEM style fuel line. Who knows if the fuel line has been altered.

You will need the proper tools and it helps if your hands are not too large.

I've done it so often that I spend more time draining and replenishing the gasoline than removing and replacing the valve.

Be certain to use the correct O ring and do not overtighten the bolts attaching the valve to the tank.,

Dean
 
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