Ford 4 cyl engine

cdmn

Member
I've seen several instances of the Number One rod going into orbit, out the side
of the block. Is there some reason why this is so? Is there a preventative fix?
 
You mean like mine? I can only speculate what happened to this
engine because I bought it this way, but I would guess neglect.
There was no oil pressure or temperature gauge hooked up on
this tractor so the operator would have no idea of the current
running engine conditions. All of the fluids in the rest of the tractor
looked fine, so maybe it got regular oil changes but no indication
of oil pressure/temperature to notice changes from normal.
And it was quite obviously never cleaned/maintained to take care
of leaks or other minor issues before they became major ones.

mvphoto46052.jpg
 
Lack of oil.. Lack of water.. Overheat
Seized piston / seized rod bearing AND/OR seized piston
If the piston can't go up, the force and weight of the crankshaft coming around causes the connecting rod to go horizontal.

Old tractors.. no warning buzzers or lights installed.
How many people actually drive their tractors with their eyeballs fixed on the oil pressure and water temp gauge?

The good news is you can purchase kit alarms online and install them yourself.
They have water temp and oil temp alarms buzzers and lights.
Had to install a kit on a boat engine I owned one time that had 'nothing'

Just some thoughts
 
One more note on No. 1 connecting rod

Probably have to check the manual on that particular engine, see which way the oil is routed first, second, third etc.

If No 1 is the last cylinder to receive oil when everything is clean and functioning correctly yet the oil passages to No 1 are clogged because of 'no oil changes being done when they're suppose to' that may be one of the reasons it's happening on No 1 connecting rod.
 
I bought one like that. Bearings were fine, but the rod bolts had come loose, and the bearing cap fell off. Must have been hammering before the cap came off, be they ran it till it puked.
 
Here's one I've been running since 1985 - I did rebuild it once, thought about replacing the block, but other than a small amount of oil seeping thru the welds there's no problems -


mvphoto46063.jpg
 
cdmn, you said, " Is there some reason why this is so? Is there a preventative fix?" Yes, preventative maintenance and maintenance. If a gauge stops working, fix it. They are there for a reason.
 
What engine are you talking about? I have had 4 cylinder engines ranging from 1941 to 1968 and never heard a thing about this. Only one I ever heard of doing that was Grandpa'd 1926 Fordson. And that was when they were doing the field work. It was traded off on a McCormick Deering 10-20 that was traded off in 1949.
 
Ill add another to this.. TOO MUCH STARTING FLUID.. non functioning pre-heat block heaters etc etc... when its -0 and some one sprays 1/2 a can into a cold engine to try and get it to start.... things hammer..
 

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