Ford 600/640 startup ...

1956 Ford 640, finally got it running but it won't stay running. M/S carb is rebuilt, new plugs, points/cond., wiring, etc. Keep getting small backfires, fuel blowing back out of the air intake, but engine acts like it is starved for fuel. Removed plugs and cleaned them, they were black and sooty.
Ran good the other day on initial start but I adjusted carb and it hasn't run continuously since.
Mystified ...
 
Ran good the other day on initial start but I adjusted carb and it hasn't run continuously since.
Mystified ...

1. It ran good
2. You adjusted the carb and it hasn't run good since.

Did you try undoing the carb adjustment? I would start with that. I'm not sure but I think that both adjustment screws should be between 1 1/2 and 2 turns out. Someone else will hopefully jump in and correct me if that' not right.
 
(quoted from post at 07:39:13 11/19/19)
Ran good the other day on initial start but I adjusted carb and it hasn't run continuously since.
Mystified ...

1. It ran good
2. You adjusted the carb and it hasn't run good since.

Did you try undoing the carb adjustment? I would start with that. I'm not sure but I think that both adjustment screws should be between 1 1/2 and 2 turns out. Someone else will hopefully jump in and correct me if that' not right.

yes, I went back to original settings. Yeah, the idle mixture screw is supposed to be between 1-2 turns out, per the book, and then adjust slightly according to engine smoothness. They're calling for the main carb screw to start out at 5 turns but I went with 3-3.5 and it ran fine for a little bit then I played with, it died. Read somewhere else if its flooding and fuel spitting out of the air intake, then there's some dirt in there somewhere. But I have it filtered! So frustrating ...
 
Read somewhere else if its flooding and fuel spitting out of the air intake, then there's some dirt in there somewhere. But I have it filtered!

Do you mean that you added a fuel filter that was not part of the original design? If so, then that may be affecting the fuel flow. Try it with the original fuel line setup.
 
(quoted from post at 12:39:44 11/19/19)
didn't think of that, I have the bowl and everything.

This tractor was converted to 12V so the alternator is in the way of everything I do on the carb side. Just a stupid design too where the exhaust, carb, fuel line, muffler, alternator, etc. is all on the same side! You have to shield everything, and the fuel tank on top !!
This original sediment bowl setup is too crowded in this area with the alternator there in front of it. How did you all configure it with this type of layout? Would be much better I think with hard fuel line but can't find any.
 
(quoted from post at 13:06:36 11/22/19)
(quoted from post at 12:39:44 11/19/19)
didn't think of that, I have the bowl and everything.

This tractor was converted to 12V so the alternator is in the way of everything I do on the carb side. Just a stupid design too where the exhaust, carb, fuel line, muffler, alternator, etc. is all on the same side! You have to shield everything, and the fuel tank on top !!
This original sediment bowl setup is too crowded in this area with the alternator there in front of it. How did you all configure it with this type of layout? Would be much better I think with hard fuel line but can't find any.

Many reroute their fuel lines around the front because they get vapor lock from heat from the exhaust on the OEM fuel line. Vapor lock however is impossible in a gravity feed system. I have stuck with the OEM type fuel line using a length of 5/16 brake line, along with a 4 inch rubber section near the top. It is not OEM but it works the same, and it does not interfere with the genny or alti.
 
(quoted from post at 13:51:29 11/22/19)
(quoted from post at 13:06:36 11/22/19)
(quoted from post at 12:39:44 11/19/19)
didn't think of that, I have the bowl and everything.

This tractor was converted to 12V so the alternator is in the way of everything I do on the carb side. Just a stupid design too where the exhaust, carb, fuel line, muffler, alternator, etc. is all on the same side! You have to shield everything, and the fuel tank on top !!
This original sediment bowl setup is too crowded in this area with the alternator there in front of it. How did you all configure it with this type of layout? Would be much better I think with hard fuel line but can't find any.

Many reroute their fuel lines around the front because they get vapor lock from heat from the exhaust on the OEM fuel line. Vapor lock however is impossible in a gravity feed system. I have stuck with the OEM type fuel line using a length of 5/16 brake line, along with a 4 inch rubber section near the top. It is not OEM but it works the same, and it does not interfere with the genny or alti.

Sounds good. I'm still playing with it all obviously, has just been a pain but a valuable learning experience.
 

td, I should have said also that OEM fuel line routing is straight down between the block and the manifolds.
 

Is that fuel line to be shielded somehow from the exhaust manifold heat there, if it goes between it and the valve cover?
When I got the tractor, it was all messed up, nothing was original so I have no idea what is supposed to go where and my manual doesn't show either.
I removed the filter the other day, turned the fuel flow OPEN, and it immediately over-flowed out of the carb air intake.
 
(quoted from post at 10:50:21 11/26/19)
Is that fuel line to be shielded somehow from the exhaust manifold heat there, if it goes between it and the valve cover?
When I got the tractor, it was all messed up, nothing was original so I have no idea what is supposed to go where and my manual doesn't show either.
I removed the filter the other day, turned the fuel flow OPEN, and it immediately over-flowed out of the carb air intake.

td, OEM fuel line had no heat shield. All of the hundreds of thousands of XXOs and XX1s built from 1955-1963 were built like this. The carburetor incorporates a shut-off which is apparently not functioning. It is the float valve and it is constantly opening and closing as you run the tractor.
 

3/16" or 5/16" ? I thought my original line was 1/4", would that work OK? Am looking at some on Amazon now, is the Copper Nickel appropriate as well and able to bend into the shape I need?

thx
 

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