HELP! 1963 FORD 4000

Where do I start! I bought this 3 months ago, and have many issues. I have replaced some things, in order to get to the next problem! Lol

I put in a electronic ignition and coil. I have rewired alternator to proper schematics.

Problem 1. If I can get it to start, the alternator sends 45 volts to battery!

Problem 2. After and before replacing new carburetor, it will not start.

Problem 3. Overheats!

Things I have replaced/fixed: new head gasket, new water pump, new belts, new electronic ignition and could, new plugs, wires, rotor, distributor cap.

I am pretty frustrated and am ready to dump it in one way!! I need a tractor tha works, not yard art!!

"I am pretty frustrated and am ready to dump it in one way!! I need a tractor that works, not yard art!!"

OK well that leads to the next question... Where are you located..


I'll address the over heat problem... I didn't see any mention of a new thermostat. Has it been changed??

next you said that it got a new head gasket. WHY?? was it leaking oil, coolant or compression??

did you have the head checked for flatness??

Hows the inside of the Radiator?

I have seen many engines that had seeping/leaking headgasket's, that then had heat problems after many cans of stop leak, block seal,mechanic in a can etc etc are poured in them to try and keep band aiding them.

When you are trying to start it do you have spark to the plugs? Do the plugs get wet with gas?

(quoted from post at 12:08:42 11/17/19)
When you are trying to start it do you have spark to the plugs? Do the plugs get wet with gas?

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So,...here is my story, as best I remember it.

Bought this back in July, from a respected friend, who used to for over thirty years to develop his property. He had it sitting to the elements for 3 years, cause he bought a new tractor.

I recently bought 20 acres across the mountain road form him, so I asked if he wanted to sell the tractor, knowing all he did with it, what could be better?

We agreed and after a month of him putting a new alternator on it and fiddling with carb, I drove down to my home in a residential area, so I could clean it up.

After a week, I started to drive it up hill, then noticed the huge steam coming of. The engine, then turned it around and saw a broken belt on the ground! Coasted home and after a while picked up a 160 deg thermostat and a LINK BELT. Ran that for a while and noticed fluid coming from the bottom of the cylinder head, Argh!

Figured the gasket was blown, so I set about taking off a tremendous amount of stuff. I also had the water pump replaced, as the old style had the pulley attached to it, but half of the pulley all broke off. The new water pump had a pulley on it, but I had to get a new fan blade!

After all was put back together, the temp read at 240 degrees and then would come down to 180 and bounce back an forth, ARGH!

Replaced the radiator, and took out he thermostat for another and same thing continued. Upon putting the head back together, I replaced the intake/outtake manifold. And the muffler and the muffler pipes.

Still ran too hot!

Then the link belt broke and I had to take the front end apart to replace fan alt belt.

Ran it and it died in the middle of the street, TWICE!.

I replaced the electronic ignition and could and cap and rotor (rotor was hugely loose!).

Ran it, now the alt puts 45 volts and sporadically jumps about with different voltage

Started the another day, and tried to fix the alt voltage and now wont start at ALL! DID I mention,....ARGH???

OH yeah, new carb.

I can reply to your questions, but trying to COOL Down!

LOL

In answer to another question, I live in Stallion Springs, Ca. West of Tehachapi, Ca.

Have you had the head checked by a machine shop... a cracked head or a head that isnt flat could cause overheating... (Compression in to the coolant passages) also has the timing been checked?

OK, first of all I don't think the battery is getting 45 volts. Yes, you're MEASURING 45 volts, but it's pretty much impossible for a typical alternator to source enough current to raise the actual battery voltage that high. And even if it could, the battery would probably 'splode first. I suspect you'll measure much less voltage than that directly at the battery terminals. If you're concerned about the alternator output, just disconnect the alternator and work on your other problems. You can come back to the charging system later. I'll note that if the Pertronix module actually got hit with 45 volts it wouldn't be good for it, but I suspect that's not the case.

The first priority, I think, is your distributor rotor, which you say was loose. I'll bet the new one is loose, too. There's supposed to be a clip on the distributor cap to retain the rotor, but it's easy to lose. (It has to be removed to take off the distributor dust cap, which I assume you still have.) You can buy a replacement clip at your New Holland dealer or <a href="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-4000_Distributor-Rotor-Clip_8N12213.html">from YT</a>.

Is the radiator actually boiling over? If it's not, then you may have a bad gauge. One thing you need to be sure of is that you have all the air out of the cooling system; if you don't, the thermostat isn't going to open when it should. Your symptoms sound like that may be happening; recheck the coolant level in the radiator and refill if necessary.

As for the no-start problem, you can try giving the engine a little snort of starting fluid through the air cleaner intake. If it fires right up, then dies, you have a fuel problem. If not, then you're not getting spark.

So we are now down to this. Last night I covered the intake, tightly, on the carb (brand new) and it actually started for a second then shut down.

Checked for spark against body, using coil wire. There is spark.

Checked for fouled or wet plugs, none they are dry.

Just wont turn over! So frustrating. Does a brand new carb have to be adjusted? Gas pours out of intake on side. Could float be stuck? That's the reason I got a new carb, as the other was like this.

Trying to do the right things! Feel like I am so close.

Try starting fluid or stick the hose from your Bar-B-Q grill in the intake and see if it will run on propane. I've driven miles with propane bottle in passenger foot well.

(quoted from post at 09:53:06 11/20/19) So we are now down to this. Last night I covered the intake, tightly, on the carb (brand new) and it actually started for a second then shut down.

Checked for spark against body, using coil wire. There is spark.

Checked for fouled or wet plugs, none they are dry.

Just wont turn over! So frustrating. Does a brand new carb have to be adjusted? Gas pours out of intake on side. Could float be stuck? That's the reason I got a new carb, as the other was like this.

Trying to do the right things! Feel like I am so close.

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Rsmith, don't use the term turn over. It is used for both cranking the motor and for the motor firing up and running. It is an obstacle to not be sure how you are using it. Previously you said that the plugs were wet, but now you say that your plugs are dry after cranking with what sounds like your hand over the carb inlet, but then gasoline pours out of the intake. Just understand that it is perfectly normal for gas to pour out of the carb throat after cranking a few seconds with the choke closed without it firing up. Gravity at work.

The spring clip (8n12213) goes on the distributor shaft and the rotor slides down over the tab on it.

This question may sound way out of line, but it is a thought to rule out. Is the thermostat installed properly, temp sensing pellet towards the engine? Also, Have you tried watching for bubbles in the radiator, while running it without the thermostat installed?

I have a 1962 4000 RC.

If it was mine. I would put it back to points and condenser. I read posts every week on the net about tractors that won't run after converting to EI. The alternator can't put out 45 volts. 18-22 volts is tops for most alternators. Something is wrong with your gauge to read 45. If your alternator is over charging. The problem has to be the internal regulator. If gas is pouring out of the carb. The float is at fault. it may have a hole in it allowing fuel to get inside the float making it too heavy. The float could be hanging up on the hinge or gasket. I have heard a lot of bad things about made in China carbs. I think you should rebuild the old one.

(quoted from post at 15:20:07 11/20/19) I have a 1962 4000 RC.

If it was mine. I would put it back to points and condenser. I read posts every week on the net about tractors that won't run after converting to EI. The alternator can't put out 45 volts. 18-22 volts is tops for most alternators. Something is wrong with your gauge to read 45. If your alternator is over charging. The problem has to be the internal regulator. If gas is pouring out of the carb. The float is at fault. it may have a hole in it allowing fuel to get inside the float making it too heavy. The float could be hanging up on the hinge or gasket. I have heard a lot of bad things about made in China carbs. I think you should rebuild the old one.

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alternator can't put out 45 volts ". Not so fast there.Not into a battery &amp; not if well regulated, but...with bad reg connections, a Delco Remy 10 series alternator will easily surpass 100 volts. BTDT.

Rsmith1956,

What are you using for a voltmeter to do your checks and where/how are you connecting it?

(quoted from post at 13:02:38 11/20/19) Rsmith1956,

What are you using for a voltmeter to do your checks and where/how are you connecting it?

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I am using a volt meter at the right setting, yes I feel it is impossible to have 45 volts, but that is what it reads.

I am not going through an AMP meter.

I am connecting to posts of battery (red postive, black negative! )

Last week I checked it and it was 14.8 at posts.

[i:b9dca7f8ee]If it was mine. I would put it back to points and condenser. I read posts every week on the net about tractors that won't run after converting to EI. [/i:b9dca7f8ee]

Well, I have been told by many to go that route of Electronic.

[i:b9dca7f8ee]The alternator can't put out 45 volts. 18-22 volts is tops for most alternators. Something is wrong with your gauge to read 45. If your alternator is over charging. The problem has to be the internal regulator. [/i:b9dca7f8ee]

I have wired it up to the correct schematics that I have seen on a few posts, and through images on the internet.

[i:b9dca7f8ee]If gas is pouring out of the carb. The float is at fault. it may have a hole in it allowing fuel to get inside the float making it too heavy. The float could be hanging up on the hinge or gasket. I have heard a lot of bad things about made in China carbs. I think you should rebuild the old one.[/i:b9dca7f8ee]

It is a brand new carburetor!! how is it that this can be that bad right out of the box? I have backed off the needle valve to 2.5 turns as well.

To pay more attention to just getting it started, I have taken thermostat out completely for a while.

What is the alternator? Internal or external regulator

I guess it is internal, has 1,2 connectors in addition to main lug connector going to battery.

I may be missing something. You posted in the beginning you rewired the alternator to the proper schematic. The schematic needs to match the alternator. It sounds like you aren't sure how it is regulated. It is likely it is internally regulated but it might not be. Is it a Delco type or a different brand like Motorola or Autolite/Motocraft? How about a couple photos of it?

Like everything these days the new aftermarket carbs can be good or they could be bad, right out of the box. Like many carbs they may need adjustments.

Ok, days later. Exchanged the alternator for a new one and I am still getting 30 volts. Why?

Got everything running fairly well, in spite of alternator, and yet it WILL NOT move except reverse and 1st gear. 4th and 5th try to move, but the popping out the exhaust and through the carburetor makes me think the firing order is out. SO I looked and on top of the distributor cap it was 1-2-3-4, CCW so I changed it to 1-2-4-3, and now it sounds worse.

Anything else I can do? I have loosened the distributor and worked it by hand each way to get it to start, with correct firing order, but it just sound like crap.

Try CW as your looking down on the distributor. 1,2,4,3.

(quoted from post at 17:16:46 11/24/19) Try CW as your looking down on the distributor. 1,2,4,3.

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Took off distributor cap and watched rotor move CW, contrary to other sites saying CCW.

I will try to work on this more this evening,...before the snow hits!

Thanks to all!