Starter Switch question

At work we have a 5610 , replaced the neutral safety switch last month. Been starting fine. Now it fires right up but when I release the key it dies. Checked fuel and such, thinking it s just the switch is there a way I can check the switch out or am I looking at the wrong issue?
I can use a volt meter a little but not sure what terminals To check to give me the correct answers. I didn t want to pull all of that out if I m looking in the wrong area.

Thanks
 
I'm not familiar with that new of a model. In earlier diesel models, once the engine is started the only way to shut it off was to pull out the handle that kills the engine, as that is the only way to stop the flow of fuel to the injector pump, and there is nothing electrical required to keep that style of engine running once it has been started.

Does yours normally turn off when you turn the key off, or does it have a separate kill handle that yu pull like the earlier ones?

If it turns off with the key that means that there is an electrically controlled solenoid valve that stops the fuel flow to kill the engine, and I would be looking there, most likely the wire from the "Run" position on the key switch isn't getting voltage to the solenoid or the key switch itself has gone bad.

If it has the earlier style handle that you pull to kill the engine then the key switch should normally have nothing to do with killing the engine once the engine has started. The only thing I can think of might be that the bendix on the starter is stuck with the starter gear always engaged with the ring gear, and so when you let the key drop back from "Start" to "Run" the drag of the starter on the engine causes it to die, but that is only a guess.
 

My search shows the electric fuel shutoff became available for the 5610 in 1988, also found on the later 5610S model, my manuals are the early 6 volume set that make no mention of the electric fuel shutoff nor show a electrical digram with that wiring circuit.

No knowing much about that setup I'd check the shutoff solenoid on the injection pump to see if there's 12 volt power there with the key turned on, if so replace the solenoid.
If no power to the shutoff solenoid I'd look to see if the tractor has a fuse box that may contain a fuse or relay that controls the solenoid.
Beyond that I'm no help without a wiring diagram.
 
(quoted from post at 11:45:42 11/08/19) At work we have a 5610 , replaced the neutral safety switch last month. Been starting fine. Now it fires right up but when I release the key it dies. Checked fuel and such, thinking it s just the switch is there a way I can check the switch out or am I looking at the wrong issue?
I can use a volt meter a little but not sure what terminals To check to give me the correct answers. I didn t want to pull all of that out if I m looking in the wrong area.

Thanks

Been off for a few days then preparing for the big freeze here. But finally got to go look at it a little.
Well it has the electric solenoid I showed only 10.33 volts that was odd. I hit the key and it started ran 30 minutes. Tried restarting same as before would not stay running. Going to try and locate a wiring diagram. Looks like the solenoid has been recently replaced. Found a couple of relays and here them click in. So I lol keep y all posted I did order a switch but it takes the park purchasing system three weeks to get it to me....
 

Run a jumper wire from the battery hot post to the injection pump solenoid and start the tractor.
If it keeps running you have a wiring or relay issue.
If it stops running replace the injection pump solenoids.
 
(quoted from post at 00:18:43 11/15/19)
Run a jumper wire from the battery hot post to the injection pump solenoid and start the tractor.
If it keeps running you have a wiring or relay issue.
If it stops running replace the injection pump solenoids.

Thanks,
I wasn t sure if I would short something out I was thinking of disconnecting that lead and trying that, but then thought it may be sending a signal to a make relay. I give you an update The boss has me working on a atv for a law enforcement atv training class... have to go through the carb on it and replace a cv joint boot.
The rest of my parts for my 4610 came in today spindle bushings, thrust bearings and seals. Also the drag link end, already have the old one off and the long end on. I will also wind up replacing the center pin pivot and bushing.
Take care and y all stay warm up there!
 
(quoted from post at 11:31:38 11/15/19)
(quoted from post at 00:18:43

Well I got the utv, ATV stuff running and I was able to go and do the training with them as a bonus for getting it done.
The jumper worked and I exercised the solenoid and it starts every time now every after it s warmed up. This tractor had been sitting for around two years two others before me could not get it get it going. Thanks for your expertise sir.

11/15/19)
Run a jumper wire from the battery hot post to the injection pump solenoid and start the tractor.
If it keeps running you have a wiring or relay issue.
If it stops running replace the injection pump solenoids.

Thanks,
I wasn t sure if I would short something out I was thinking of disconnecting that lead and trying that, but then thought it may be sending a signal to a make relay. I give you an update The boss has me working on a atv for a law enforcement atv training class... have to go through the carb on it and replace a cv joint boot.


The rest of my parts for my 4610 came in today spindle bushings, thrust bearings and seals. Also the drag link end, already have the old one off and the long end on. I will also wind up replacing the center pin pivot and bushing.
Take care and y all stay warm up there!
 
(quoted from post at 07:02:11 11/23/19)
Well it sounds like the fuel solenoid is ok so it looks like you have a issue with the key switch or a relay somewhere.

I have the switch ordered.

I received the new front spindle kit for the 4610. In preparation have all of the drag link off and tie rod assembly off and the new ones already assembled and ready to go back on.
What is the best way to remove the upper and lower spindle bushings?
Can you just use a brass flat nose punch and work them out from getting the inside the lip
and driving the bottom one down then the top one up and out?
I will also need to do the pivot pin and bushing. Is it best to leave the wheels on ?
Thanks Keith
 

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