Ford 3000 Pertronix

gleaves

New User
My father left me 10 acres and a broken down Ford 3000. Well, long story short, Youtube is amazing for learning how to fix things when you don't have a clue.
I'm getting grief from the Pertronix Ignitor points replacement though. They say hook the red wire up to the ballast resistor but after a lot of grief looking for it I found out I have a resistor wire. I spiced in the red wire upstream just above the resistor wire so it gets 12V and left it in place for the 6V coil. (I believe its 6V..doesn't say but it has 1.5 ohms between the poles.)
All I'm getting is backfire. Do I need to get a 12V coil? Did I connect the red wire in the wrong place? Pertronix instructions are poor. Also on my kit 1231 the magnet doesn't set flush on top with the module and, even though they gave me an acrylic gauge, the gap is too close for the gauge and can't be adjusted. I'm assured this is the right kit for that tractor. Any tips? I have no idea what I'm doing. I just watch a lot of videos and do what they do.
 
I put it in my 1970 3000 and
also bought the coil they
recommend. Installed it per the
instructions and it runs
perfect. It's been about 3
years now.
 
I'd say you have the resister wire to
coil and full voltage to the Pertronix
correct. Don't think it's your
pertronix.

Backfiring makes me think timing.
Like spark plug wires maybe.
Firing order on those is one, two,
three.
Distributer turns counter clockwise.
Did you have distributer out of tractor?
Normally there's a # 1 mark on dist cap.
 
One thing to add to what UltraDog said, the #1 cylinder of
the engine is the one closest to the radiator. #3 by the dash.
 

I wash thinking timing too but I haven't moved the distributor and I figured it would be at least close enough to start. Plug wires are old but they worked fine with the old points before I did the swap. I should order new ones but the last thread i read, there was a big argument on what kind you're supposed to use with a Petronix."
Throwing parts at a problem gets pricey and tedious...wait three days for UPS...forget where you left off.."where did this screw go?"-- I'll rustle up some new ones and reread who I think won the plug wire debate.
JohnofNewHaven...You put a set in a 1970 (mine is a 68 ). Did the magnet set flush at the top even with the module? The videos I watched for other kits says it needs to do this but that's not happening on mine. There's some nub that looks like a roller bearing coming up from the bottom stopping it.
Also, were you able to adjust the gap? The back screw hole isn't slotted like most and the module sits so close to the magnet that you can't put the acrylic feeler gauge in it.
I really appreciate you guys helping me noodle this out. Since I started I've been absolutely OCD on it..and I'm also having a ball...I must be getting old. Now someone is giving me an old N2 Ford to fix up and I know I'll be back here, whining like a little girl for help...lol
 
Wait a minute...back me up. "Counterclockwise" I have it all apart again but it sounds just like me to have the plug wires on for clockwise. Only I could screw up a 1,2,3 firing order and analysis a dumb mistake like an advanced physics problem. I'll throw it all back together and let you know.
Very much obliged guys for the extra brain cells. I'm not the brightest crayon in the box.
 
we've all had that "not sharpest coin in the fountain moment" ;)

Let us know if that fixes it.
 
Let me throw a "monkey wrench" into this situation. I put a Pertronix in a JD 4020 gas and a Oliver 770 gas this summer, and in both cases had to change the timing, on both to make them run right. I did not pursue to see why exactly why this should have to be done.
 

I have installed Pertronix in a '69 forklift and a '57 Ford tractor. I didn't expect the timing to be the same for points as for a magnetic trigger. Maybe close enough to run but it would be asking a lot for two totally different systems to come out the same.
 

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