I just got this 1940 ford 9n that sat for about 2 years. I rebuilt the carburetor and cleaned the tank out and the replaced the fuel bowl, replaced the plugs, wires, points, and condenser. The tractor runs great at idle and with throttle but when I put it in 1st gear it does fine on flat ground but when you start up a hill or in 2nd or 3rd it just dies like. I can start it right back and same thing. It’s converted to 12 volt. And has a full tank of gas. I pulled the governor off and looked at it and all looks good the balls aren’t flat spotted neither are the races. I did notice that the adjustment screw for the governor arm is missing but I don’t know what to set it to with a new bolt. Any help is much appreciated.

Did it start and run before you did all that? Should have just checked fluids, cleaned points, put fresh gas and oil in and then started it before switching out all those parts. Did you perform the fuel flow test before and after? Probable NO-GO fuel issue causes are: plugged vent, plugged screens, plugged sediment bulb, dirty gas tank, dirty carb, and more. There are three OEM screens in the fuel system. Two are on the Sediment Bulb Assembly; the 3rd is on the brass elbow inside the carb where the fuel line connects to. SEE PICTURES. Don't shove anything, wires especially, up into the sediment bulb assembly. You have a vertical fine mesh screen on the inlet port inside the tank that you can damage. Best solution is to remove the tank and thoroughly clean. FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR FUEL SYSTEM & POSSIBLE CAUSES OF NO FUEL:

Did you swap out the 6V to 12V or was it like that? Was it done correctly? Did you just put a 12V battery in or do a proper switch-out job? Do you have an alternator in place of the generator and the roundcan cutout removed? When you did the tune-up, did you set the points correctly, .015", test it, AND mount the distributor correctly? There is only correct way to mount the unit and if off 180 you will bust the housing, rendering it junk. Is the OEM Ballast resistor wired in correctly? Is the coil 6V or 12V? Your issue sounds like it is fuel related - but ensure wiring is all correct first. You do all that BEFORE applying power to the battery. Get yourself copies of the essential manuals now that you are an N-Owner -they go a long way in diagnosing problems. Find out which governor rod is not right and fix it - we have the governor manual here:

GO HERE TO GET A TON OF FREE INFORMATION; IN HOW-TO'S FORUM:

FORD FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR – WHAT HAPPENS WHEN MOUNTED 180° OFF:

FORD 9N/2N ESENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

What adjustment screw is that? On a 9N governor you want the spring to be just snug at idle. If it's loose you tighten it by bending a loop, or loosen it it it's too tight. The the linkage is bent to obtain desired throttle movement. Have you checked compression on your tractor? Also you might want to post this on the 'N' tractor site just below this one. Lot's of good advice there.

I will check compression tomorrow morning

Forget compression for now - I'd guarantee that isn't you root cause problem. SEE my reply above and start here. Spark, Fuel, and then compression is the standard order of testing. Do one system at a time. Root cause problem solving methods should always be followed. Verify, correct if required, then move on to next the system. Avoid swapping out old parts with new until confirmed to be ineffective. Wiring MUST be correct before you do anything and is done BEFORE battery power is applied. Fix any non-conforming issues like the governor rod, then perform fuel flow test.

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

*9N653I* & *8NI55I3*