3000 hydraulic pressure line

Blew at the pump. What keeps the high pressure line in it's place. Difficult to figure from the parts diagram or with flash light in the dark, just doesn't really look like the nut is designed to hold the line in. Tube looks to be straight, no flare, no nothing
Thanks,
CC
 
Howdy Curt,
You must have the late style connection there.
It has a nut with metal washer or ferule there with a rubber seal. They are good for a couple of reconnects then the metal washer starts to lose its grip on the tube and they start to leak. Trouble is most guys try to pry the metal washer off the tube to replace it and that eats away at the tube so a new nut/washer/rubber seal (that they get about $40 for) won't hold anymore. Very agravating as it means you have to replace the tube = $.
I had a 3000 that someone had replaced the fitting in the pump with a flare type fitting and then flared the tube.
It worked great. Ford went to a flare type fitting there on the 3600s. My advice is to retrofit your connection there to a flare type fitting. Bring your pump and tube in to a good hyd shop and ask them for ideas.
This is a common problem on those so if you retrofit yours with a good, workable solution please post it here as it will help others.
 
Like the dog said the washers on the Hydraulic compression nut usually wear through the line, Do yourself a favor and replace the line and the two compression nuts from New Holland (very expensive) The cheap after market ones Do Not Work !!!

such as this one from YT.. https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/C7NNH856C_Hydraulic-Pump-Compression-Nut_30992.htm?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4aXwk7qG4AIVBB-tBh1nBwPZEAQYAyABEgKcKPD_BwE
 
Thanks guys, I'll get on it. And Dog, you asked me before about serial numbers. Hard to read but I think he's C454474 which seems to make him either a late 3000 or an early 3600. The tractor has characteristics of both.
CC
 
I might add.. I bought the line and compression nuts from YT, after installing and instantly blowing another at the pump, I bought another nut thinking I didn t get it in properly, I then instantly blew another at the rear. After going to New Holland and looking at their nut I could see why. The aftermarket ones don t have the coned shaped washer that crimps on the line. My 3000 is a 71 that had original line and nuts, so I don t expect to have trouble for another 40 years or so.

BTW.. the line from YT worked, you might save money there and just buy the nuts from NH.
 
So Dog and others, I looked at the end of my line and it really doesn't look bad. I have a plan that includes getting a new nut from CNH ($40). There's more to the plan than that but my question is about installation. Is that nut going to seat? How tight does one tighten it?
Thanks, CC
 
If the end of your line looks ok it sounds like a good plan and a lot easier than pulling the step off to get to the lower end.

I don't know how to describe tightness, I just snugged it up pretty good.. good luck.
 
BTW.. the rubber, washers etc are in a recess in the end of the nut, just slip it on the line as it comes and hold the line all the way in while tightening.
 
Got it, thanks. The rest of the plan is to slip a collar with set screws on the tube and fabricate a small bracket to hold that tube in it's place against potential pressure. I'm way more familiar with MM tractor hydraulics and they use that method all over. An O-ring on the end of a tube, the tube has a shoulder and a clip holds the tube in place to prevent it from backing out. That's my plan, I'll let you know how I come out. I'm just assuming that there's relief in the system somewhere so one cannot "deadhead" the pump or at least if you do, it will only be for the brief period required to push somebody off their seat and not blow a line or overheat the pump. There is relief in the program isn't there?
CC
 
I don't think that's necessary, Ford made it to work and it did for over 40 years on my tractor and I'm sure there are 1000s out there that are still not having trouble.
 

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