ThermoStart installed on 3000 today

nashranch

Well-known Member
Today I installed the thermostart setup on my 3000. While had it apart I replaced all of the return lines on the top of each injector which return fuel to the tank. I did put a brass T in the line which feeds the thermostart. After all that I tried to start the tractor and had a real hard time staring. got a lot of white smoke, I mean a lot of white smoke. The tractor finally started but it didn't want to. After running for quite a while I checked inside the fuel cap and din't see any fuel dribbling out of the return line. So with no return fuel I doubt the thermostart will be getting any fuel to work properly.


If you all remember i just replaced broken rings on two of the pistons with all new rings and honed the cylinders. Do i need to be patient and break in the engine more? or do i have a injector or injection pump problem?


Why is this tractor starting so hard cold? The weather was mid 60's today so not cold at all.


Thanks for any help i can get
 
If your 3000 has the inline pump, there will be next to nothing going back to tank because that line only
collects leak off fuel from the injectors, which is a very small quantity (we're talking a few drops/minute
here for each injector). Assuming the hoses were empty, it may have to run 30 minutes or more before enough
collects in the hose to spill back into the tank.

Along the same lines, with regards to the thermostart, you'll likely need to run it some more before you get
enough fuel in the line to feed it also.

Finally, assuming you have the inline pump, are you using the cold start button on the pump? It makes a big
difference in cold weather.
 

Bern I know nothing about a cold start button on the injection pump. here is a pic of the Simms inline pump I have


mvphoto43419.jpg
 
How long since oil been changed in pump???? Drain is on bottom, level is bolt head in front of throttle shaft, fill is big hex plug on top.
 


Never Shaun... I've only owned it two months... I did pull a side plug and diesel looking fluid gushed out. It probably needs to be changed for sure now that I know it should have oil in it.
 
Excess fuel button in on the shut off cable fulcrum on the pump. Half throttle, push the corrugated button in, it will click and stay in. Rack goes to full fuel. When the engine lights off move throttle up and full fuel will cancel. White smoke is poor heat, incomplete combustion.
 
(quoted from post at 20:00:03 10/02/19) Excess fuel button in on the shut off cable fulcrum on the pump. Half throttle, push the corrugated button in, it will click and stay in. Rack goes to full fuel. When the engine lights off move throttle up and full fuel will cancel. White smoke is poor heat, incomplete combustion.

Thanks Ernie for your input. I don't see that corrugated button you mention but i will check it out tomorrow. I just pulled the drain plug on pump and only diesel came out of the pump. Not good i guess. Is there a bad seal in the pump causing this problem?
 
The rubber button is just below the end of the shut off cable in your picture. Fuel leaks by the plungers in the pump and dilutes the oil. Use extreme caution in replacing the drain and level plugs in the aluminum body, very easily stripped out.
 

Cold start button is in the end of the shut down control
Button is the outer part of the shaft, then there's the rubber seal and then the shut down lever.
Lever must be in the run position before you can push the button in, throttle must be opened above idle in order for the button to stay in.
Once the engine starts or you move the throttle to idle the button will pop back out.

mvphoto43440.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 07:51:11 10/03/19) The rubber button is just below the end of the shut off cable in your picture. Fuel leaks by the plungers in the pump and dilutes the oil. Use extreme caution in replacing the drain and level plugs in the aluminum body, very easily stripped out.

Thanks Ernie... I just found the rubber button you push on the shut off lever. It push in and click when the throttle was about half.

Hopefully pushing that in will make this tractor start better when it's cold. I still gotta refill the pump with fresh oil
 
(quoted from post at 07:57:17 10/03/19)
Cold start button is in the end of the shut down control
Button is the outer part of the shaft, then there's the rubber seal and then the shut down lever.
Lever must be in the run position before you can push the button in, throttle must be opened above idle in order for the button to stay in.
Once the engine starts or you move the throttle to idle the button will pop back out.

mvphoto43440.jpg

Thanks Jerry
 
I bet the guy before me didn't know about that cold start feature so he squirted it with ether to get it started, and I bet that's what broke the rings on two of the pistons.
 
She started pretty good this morning using the cold start button on the injector pump. It smoked real bad for a bit till it got warmed up. Hopefully this gets better with time.
 

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