Ford 871 Fuel Line

CTPhil

Member
The previous owner of my 871 made a repair to the fuel line as in the photo. I'm wondering if people think it's safe. I've noticed that the recommended replacements have a section of rubber in the line near the fuel tank.


mvphoto42777.jpg
 
I have had two 960s the same way. just check ever so often for leaks, those valves are junk. I have a 961 that the fuel line goes toward the front out the front bracket then down to the carb. it rubber. it wont get as much heat as the one that goes in between the manifold.
 
(quoted from post at 15:49:51 09/17/19)
(quoted from post at 14:42:02 09/17/19)
As Pinball said factory was rubber for the first 4-5 inches.
Factory was steel on both ends with rubber in the middle.

I agree that they were steel at both ends, but the rubber section wasn't in the middle. It was a short section near the upper end of the line.
 
(quoted from post at 15:48:04 09/17/19) CTPhil,
Is there a heat shield under the tank?
Mufflers get really hot if you work these beasts hard.
Keith
There is a heat shield that shields the tank, yes.
 
(quoted from post at 15:07:03 09/17/19) I have had two 960s the same way. just check ever so often for leaks, those valves are junk. I have a 961 that the fuel line goes toward the front out the front bracket then down to the carb. it rubber. it wont get as much heat as the one that goes in between the manifold.
I took the valve out today and am in the process of modifying it as per multiple threads on YT. The O ring on the shutoff screw was disintegrated. Since it's somewhat apart I'd replace that line if the consensus was that it is dangerous.


mvphoto42790.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 17:42:21 09/17/19)
(quoted from post at 15:49:51 09/17/19)
(quoted from post at 14:42:02 09/17/19)
As Pinball said factory was rubber for the first 4-5 inches.
Factory was steel on both ends with rubber in the middle.

I agree that they were steel at both ends, but the rubber section wasn't in the middle. It was a short section near the upper end of the line.

I have an original so I know that it is steel at both ends and a rubber section near the top. I am not a key boarder so I prefer to just generalize where it doesn't make any difference since I know that I can depend on you guys to fill in the little details.
 
(quoted from post at 19:42:21 09/17/19)

I agree that they were steel at both ends, but the rubber section wasn't in the middle. It was a short section near the upper end of the line.

Depends on how one defines "middle". To me, "middle" is anywhere between two ends.
 
(quoted from post at 08:19:48 09/18/19)
(quoted from post at 19:42:21 09/17/19)

I agree that they were steel at both ends, but the rubber section wasn't in the middle. It was a short section near the upper end of the line.

Depends on how one defines "middle". To me, "middle" is anywhere between two ends.

Fair enough. I am, as my wife puts it, "an@l" about technical details. (wow, this site is strict on swear words, I couldn't even post that "an@l" with the real spelling)

I guess I'm that way because I learned most of my mechanical/electrical/plumbing skills and knowledge from my father, who was an engineer and he insisted on technical accuracy.
 

I would make up a new line out of steel and for-go the rubber...

The next best option would be to use fuel injection hose along with the proper clamps for fuel injection hose...

I am a big fan of continuous compression hose clamps a good one will keep it leak free maintenance free longer then a worm drive clamp..

https://www.amazon.com/XtremeAmazing-replacement-Fuel-Injection-Clamps/dp/B0040CU0HM

https://www.amazon.com/Swpeet-Assor...TF8&psc=1&refRID=JWMKTYW6VJ2C5RPS2B01



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072NBK3HY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

I bought a pre-cut brake line from the local auto parts store in a length to route it up front & around the manifold. A tube bender made to job fairly easy. I posted pics of it back when, but can't find them at the moment. :-(

It works great, no rubber, & it comes with the proper double flare nuts.
 

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