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SOS / PTO

B

bigtom3993

Member
I have a Ford 801 tractor that has the back hoe attachment on the back and bucket on The front , back hoe is ran by PTO pump on the rear , front bucket runs off tractor hydraulic, I had the tractor in first gear and was lowering the front bucket at the same time and then the tractor stopped moving, it did happen before and I raised and lowered the front bucket and the tractor would move again , I tried that trick again but no luck this time , I checked out further and not only will the tractor not move in any gear but the back hoe pump does not work that is attached to the PTO , does anyone have any ideas on what I can do ?
 
You have stripped splines on the input shaft and/or torque limiting disc in the flywheel. Confirm by performing a pressure check. Zero or very low oil pressure would pretty much verify this.

Torque limiting disc is replaced with a front transmission split. Input shaft is a little more difficult, and would require either a complete trans disassembly or else standing the nose up in the air. This job would be best farmed out if you have limited mechanical skills.
 
(quoted from post at 18:49:23 09/14/19)

But would the hydraulics on the bucket still work on the front if that was so ?
Click to expand...

Yes, if the loader is run off of the tractor's 3 point hydraulics as you said, because that pump is driven directly of the rear of the engine and would not be affected by the transmission input not getting powered, but the transmission itself and the PTO would be affected.
 

Is there any place here that can show me step-by-step how to split the tractor and repair what you say is damaged ?
 
Yes.

You will need to acquire the proper Ford service manual.

These are available online.

Dean
 
You could search the archives here for some of the info you need - good luck with the search feature on this
site. Nobody I know is going to type out explicit, step-by-step instructions to replace an input shaft in a
SOS transmission. That's what repair manuals are for.
 
(quoted from post at 06:07:27 09/15/19)
Your email appears to be open in modern view as well.
Click to expand...
img][/img]

I removed the top cover from the transmission and seen two pistons, one works great when the clutch is worked , the other does not move at all , I tried pushing it in but it will not go in then I tried pulling it out with my fingers but it would not move , I feel it should because there is a spring on it , I think it has something to do with the PTO but not sure , then I started the tractor up and it still did not move , and another thing , I see no fluid at all in the cavity, should there be some There ? I am trying to post a picture but am having trouble doing that also lol
 
mvphoto42675.jpg
 
I'm no SOS man but am wondering why you
would pull the top cover off.
If I remember correctly there is nothing
under there that is related to your
problem.
I have helped replace the input shaft
and torque limiting clutch on a couple
of those transmissions and we did not
have to pull that cover.
I'm thinking if you don't have a manual
for that transmission you really should
get one before you open it any further.
 

I pulled the top cover off because in an older post with the similar problem the gentleman was told to pull it off and check the clutch plunger to make sure it was working correctly and not stuck , That was the only reason why I pulled it off as you can tell with the pictures I have not only the Bacot attachment on the tracker but the front bucket also and I was hoping to not have to remove them to separate the tractor so I was shooting for any hole in the dark that I could fine
 
I would suggest that you stop shooting in the dark and find yourself a service manual. After you read it and
get a sense of what's going on inside, start with a pressure check first thing.

The irony is that now you will most likely need that manual to successfully put that cover back on. It's not
an easy job for a first timer to get the PTO and shift cables adjusted properly.
 
Did you remove the top cover without following the procedures in the service manual? If so you may have already caused yourself more time and money than necessary.
 


No the way I did it I can put everything back on without any problem I made sure to measure my cable everything just like I had read here in the forum
 
(quoted from post at 13:31:40 09/15/19)
I pulled the top cover off because in an older post with the similar problem the gentleman was told to pull it off and check the clutch plunger to make sure it was working correctly and not stuck , That was the only reason why I pulled it off as you can tell with the pictures I have not only the Bacot attachment on the tracker but the front bucket also and I was hoping to not have to remove them to separate the tractor so I was shooting for any hole in the dark that I could fine
Click to expand...

Oh. heavens!
 

And with the top of the transmission cover off I started the tractor up and nothing turned inside the transmission at all
 
(quoted from post at 20:35:39 09/15/19)
And with the top of the transmission cover off I started the tractor up and nothing turned inside the transmission at all
Click to expand...

So the diagnosis by Bern, which was reinforced by Larry, was correct, and you'll be splitting the tractor to replace the torque limiting clutch and/or input shaft due to stripped splines. That was pretty much the only logical diagnoses from your original description of your symptoms.

It's almost comical how much effort people go through to try to go the "easy route" when the people here who have decades of experience try to help them with advice that they need to do some major work on their tractor, and they end up needing to do the split anyway.
 
(reply to post at 18:52:01 09/15/19)
Click to expand...
You are very correct, I am starting to remove the bucket from the front, hopefully I will not need to remove the back hoe also lol then try to split it , but I am hoping to split at where the motor connects to the tranny , am I correct ? I have split a 8-n , Hope this is as simple lol
 
Yes, the torque limiting clutch and input shaft are accessed by splitting between the engine and transmission.
 

I hate to ask but I cannot locate it does anyone know if there is a place here in the forum s in the archives or something like an aid me in breaking this tractor a part ?
 

Sorry! I can't answer that question. But I can tell you that if you end up needing an input shaft, you'll either need to remove the hoe or the transmission in order to stand it on its tail.

If you remove the input shaft without doing this or wedging the assembly tight, you'll drop a thrust washer and need to do a complete transmission disassembly to get it back in place.
 
(quoted from post at 20:10:37 09/15/19)
Sorry! I can't answer that question. But I can tell you that if you end up needing an input shaft, you'll either need to remove the hoe or the transmission in order to stand it on its tail.

If you remove the input shaft without doing this or wedging the assembly tight, you'll drop a thrust washer and need to do a complete transmission disassembly to get it back in place.
Click to expand...
mvphoto42915.jpg


mvphoto42916.jpg


Can you possibly tell me anything about the serial numbers in the photos I just attached I m trying to split the tractor apart and I found these just now
 
871 is the model number. It is a model within the 801 series. All tractors in the 801 series had the general purpose ag chassis and the172 ci gas or diesel engine. Most of the diesel models have a "D" suffix after the stamped model number. The 871 had the S-O-S transmission and the single speed 540 rpm independent PTO.

137062 is the tractor serial number. That is a 1961 serial number.

312259 is the casting code for the transmission housing. That was the casting code for the original S-O-S transmission in the '01 series that had the over running clutch. A lot of them have been replaced with the later Direct Drive Clutch version, but there are still some out there with the original ORC.

There is a date code below the casting number, which looks like A149. I don't know if that is the date that particular housing was cast or if it is the date the transmission was assembled, but I believe A149 means January 14, 1969.
 
(quoted from post at 10:23:27 09/21/19) 871 is the model number. It is a model within the 801 series. All tractors in the 801 series had the general purpose ag chassis and the172 ci gas or diesel engine. Most of the diesel models have a "D" suffix after the stamped model number. The 871 had the S-O-S transmission and the single speed 540 rpm independent PTO.

137062 is the tractor serial number. That is a 1961 serial number.

312259 is the casting code for the transmission housing. That was the casting code for the original S-O-S transmission in the '01 series that had the over running clutch. A lot of them have been replaced with the later Direct Drive Clutch version, but there are still some out there with the original ORC.

Thanks !

There is a date code below the casting number, which looks like A149. I don't know if that is the date that particular housing was cast or if it is the date the transmission was assembled, but I believe A149 means January 14, 1969.
Click to expand...
 

Big Tom, SOS mechanics go by factory manuals and specs and tests not by what they "Feel and think".


I tried pulling it out with my fingers but it would not move , I feel it should because there is a spring on it , I think it has something to do with the PTO but not sure ,
 
(quoted from post at 10:36:15 09/21/19)
(quoted from post at 10:23:27 09/21/19) 871 is the model number. It is a model within the 801 series. All tractors in the 801 series had the general purpose ag chassis and the172 ci gas or diesel engine. Most of the diesel models have a "D" suffix after the stamped model number. The 871 had the S-O-S transmission and the single speed 540 rpm independent PTO.

137062 is the tractor serial number. That is a 1961 serial number.

312259 is the casting code for the transmission housing. That was the casting code for the original S-O-S transmission in the '01 series that had the over running clutch. A lot of them have been replaced with the later Direct Drive Clutch version, but there are still some out there with the original ORC.


Ok , I am almost ready to split , only have the engine to transmission bolts and the long brackets that run clear back to the rear , I think I can just lower the brackets under the meter when I am ready to move , but long time ago when I split my old 8n I used sone wooden shims somewhere on my the front but I don t remember where or why , any ideas?

Thanks !

There is a date code below the casting number, which looks like A149. I don't know if that is the date that particular housing was cast or if it is the date the transmission was assembled, but I believe A149 means January 14, 1969.
Click to expand...
/quote]
Click to expand...
 
(quoted from post at 13:26:35 09/21/19)
(quoted from post at 10:36:15 09/21/19)
(quoted from post at 10:23:27 09/21/19) 871 is the model number. It is a model within the 801 series. All tractors in the 801 series had the general purpose ag chassis and the172 ci gas or diesel engine. Most of the diesel models have a "D" suffix after the stamped model number. The 871 had the S-O-S transmission and the single speed 540 rpm independent PTO.

137062 is the tractor serial number. That is a 1961 serial number.

312259 is the casting code for the transmission housing. That was the casting code for the original S-O-S transmission in the '01 series that had the over running clutch. A lot of them have been replaced with the later Direct Drive Clutch version, but there are still some out there with the original ORC.


Ok , I am almost ready to split , only have the engine to transmission bolts and the long brackets that run clear back to the rear , I think I can just lower the brackets under the meter when I am ready to move , but long time ago when I split my old 8n I used sone wooden shims somewhere on my the front but I don t remember where or why , any ideas?

Thanks !

There is a date code below the casting number, which looks like A149. I don't know if that is the date that particular housing was cast or if it is the date the transmission was assembled, but I believe A149 means January 14, 1969.
Click to expand...
/quote]
Click to expand...


You tap wooden wedges in the front above the axle on each side so that the front part of the tractor can't pivot at the front axle pin when you get it disconnected from the rear. Block the front don't roll it. Roll the rear. It rolls much more easily than the front. Support the rear with the HoboNC splitting support jack.
Click to expand...
 
(quoted from post at 17:13:11 09/21/19)
(quoted from post at 13:26:35 09/21/19)
(quoted from post at 10:36:15 09/21/19)
(quoted from post at 10:23:27 09/21/19) 871 is the model number. It is a model within the 801 series. All tractors in the 801 series had the general purpose ag chassis and the172 ci gas or diesel engine. Most of the diesel models have a "D" suffix after the stamped model number. The 871 had the S-O-S transmission and the single speed 540 rpm independent PTO.

137062 is the tractor serial number. That is a 1961 serial number.

312259 is the casting code for the transmission housing. That was the casting code for the original S-O-S transmission in the '01 series that had the over running clutch. A lot of them have been replaced with the later Direct Drive Clutch version, but there are still some out there with the original ORC.


Ok , I am almost ready to split , only have the engine to transmission bolts and the long brackets that run clear back to the rear , I think I can just lower the brackets under the meter when I am ready to move , but long time ago when I split my old 8n I used sone wooden shims somewhere on my the front but I don t remember where or why , any ideas?

Thanks !

There is a date code below the casting number, which looks like A149. I don't know if that is the date that particular housing was cast or if it is the date the transmission was assembled, but I believe A149 means January 14, 1969.
Click to expand...
/quote]
Click to expand...


You tap wooden wedges in the front above the axle on each side so that the front part of the tractor can't pivot at the front axle pin when you get it disconnected from the rear. Block the front don't roll it. Roll the rear. It rolls much more easily than the front. Support the rear with the HoboNC splitting support jack.
Click to expand...

I have to roll the front , the back hoe attachment is still on the rear lol
Click to expand...
 
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