What have i got?



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This baby sure is running rich. Lotta white smoke when it starts cold. Is there any adjustments I might need to do? Could it be just because it's breaking in the new rings? old diesel? injector timing off?

My shop is open on both ends and I have fans blowing in there but still my eyes are burning when it's running at half throttle

Glad you got it running, that'll make you a real nice tractor.

She's a runner and no blow by

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The slugs are in and torqued to 60 lbs

Parts will be here today and the ole 3000 will go back together. Head Bolts 60-80- then final 110 foot lbs.... Conn Rods at 60 foot lbs. Are these numbers correct??

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There is no way on God's Green Earth that the cylinders are that egg shaped. This is just normal lotta wear. I did say the pistons moved in the bore but the movement was front-back and side to side.

UGH!!! At risk of showing my ignorance, I'm going to answer your ?, with.......'Hour Glass' shaped bores!!!?????

I would be running a close check for worn piston bores in the block!!!

I remember hearing about this happening in engines that run pistons in engines, with NO sleeves installed.

I also remember that you mentioned , the pistons had excessive movement at the top end of the bores!!????

May just be a stupid answer, to a very valid question???

Gary

Bad Hone jobs????????

Gary :roll:

Got to looking at the top compression ring on the cylinder where the rings were still intact. The ring is much narrower on the top side where the opening is. I guess this is excessive wear. Why would the ring wear wear more there than the bottom half of the ring??

Pulled one of a different color down today, DT466 in a IH 1660 combine, had a pin hole in #6 cylinder dumping coolant into the oil pan.

A friend brought his log truck over and used the knuckle boom to lift the engine out of the combine, hope to have it back running by next weekend.

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Cool Thanks

My book says 19 degrees, 20 is close enough, rather have it a little fast than slow.

Curiosity got the best of me today while cleaning parts and waiting for rings an gaskets. I moved crank around to TDC and took off the flywheel inspection timing cover to find marks on flywheel. Then i took off the gear cover to see the marks on injection pump gears. When the marks lined up the flywheel wa right at 20 BTDC. I was thinking it should be 18 BTDC but not sure. Any Pro's know for sure what it should be?





Second pic is not great taken thru a mirror angled for best reflective view

The Thruster Control Module is slightly out of adjustment Garyy

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Mike; Didja find anything else to fix......while yer breakin' it?? :shock: :lol:

Gary

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Mike; Didja find anything else to fix......while yer breakin' it?? :shock: :lol:

Gary

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Howdy Arlen.. I set the drain plug on the hood and it got lost....Had to tear apart the whole top end to find it! :lol:

I was just gunna change oil for s**t sakes. Now look at it

Kinda long way around to change oil isn't it? Or do you just turn them upside down?

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I sent you an email

Thanks John.... just placed order with YT

One used to be able to get a re-ring kit that contained rings, rod bearings and necessary gaskets but I'm not finding those now.

You could check with your local parts stores to see if they offer anything like that anymore.

Checked with one of my local suppliers, couldn't get the parts in kit form but individually they where only around $165 plus shipping.

Looks like this site has the best deal.

Rings # CFPN6149AS = $21.68 per cylinder = total $68.04
Bearing # DFPN6211B = $10.80 each = total $31.40

Head gasket set # HS2300 = $16.38
Oil pan gasket # FONN6710AA = $9.11

Total cost $121.93 plus shipping

Couldn't hardly believe how little the head gasket set cost, my supplier was $43

Hope this helps

John

Thanks Destroked thinking about just doing std. rings...with the hone job of course.

I don't see just the rings For sale on the YT site...would you buy elsewhere?

Hone it and throw on a new set of rings.

Found broken rings on top groove of cyl. #1 and #3. Guess that's why i had so much blowby on this machine. The cylinders are not scored at all. There was a ridge on the top of each cylinder.
Thinking about just going with standard size rings and put this thing back together.

Any professional opinions would be greatly appreciated. I don't have micrometers to accurately measure the bore.

CRAP!!! The head gasket is not blown between cylinders. I do see allot of movement in the pistons when they are in the up position. Iwould imagine this blowby engine needs new rings.
Any experts out there have an opinion??

One hour into it this morning

Today I pull the head on this 3000 and hopefully find a blown head gasket. I got started on it last nite

A little blowby video...Ford 3000https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=NqZS9it8S2w&feature=youtu.be

Yer HF tester sucks..

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Pulled injectors today to check compression . I only see approx. 100 lbs on all the cylinders. Not happy about that... my compression tester is a Harbor freight and their I'd no check valve in the hookup so when rotating engine the gage hits up to 100 and back down with every revolution so not totally convinced the 100 lb. reading is correct. Anyway the injectors were real nasty and had a sooty buildup on them. I cleaned the tips with carb cleaner and a brass brush. Here's a few pics of the injectors

The ole 3000 is starting kinda hard .. needs a snort of starting fluid to get running. Maybe it'll be better with a good battery. It does start and run though. I noticed today after running it a while at 1/3 throttle that it had a puddle of oil under the front end. I thought maybe the front crank seal was leaking but not the case. The oil dripping is coming from the crankcase breather tube. Their is a tremendous amount of blowby coming out of the rocker arm cover. I guess maybe the engine is a little tired. Hoping after I run the snot out of it it will clear up a bit.
Is their any bits of wisdom out there?

I plan on checking the compression tomorrow to see what we got. I bet it is low.. the hour meter shows 3415 hours

Before I got this one home some guy called me in response to my Craigslist ad. He said his Uncle has a Ford 6000 with a loader for Sale with a PS leak For Sale for less than $1500. Still thinking about that deal.

Here's my ad

https://eugene.craigslist.org/grd/d/springfield-wtb-ford-3000-or-4000/6962824549.html

Good looking tractor, don't see many with straight tin anymore, still has the shield to keep fuel off of the starter during filter changes.

Jealous of the deal you got.

Dig the giant toolbox mounted to the front of this newly
purchased Ford 3000. Power washed it real good when i
got it home today. Also cleaned up battery connections at starter.

Turned over good enuf to fire off. Runs real good

I've switched some of my Fords over to a Group 49 batteries, the ground cable needs replaced with a longer one to reach the grand post at the front of the battery but that's not a big issue.

Last two 4DLT's I bought lasted less than 2 years with only 1 year warranty, group 49's I get from NAPA have 72 month warranty.

I'll be converting the rest over as the 4DLT's go bad.

Nice looking old 3000 and $500 is a super good deal, We gave $1000 for a junker to get the front axle and power steering for my BIL's 3000.

I switched the battery cables on my '73 4000 gasser to side post cables and use a group 78 800 CCA battery. Tell the young fools at the auto parts store it's for a '88 Chevy diesel pickup. I don't use the tractor in the winter and don't have anywhere to store it inside so I move the battery to the small garage where the garden tractors live during the winter and rotate a single battery tender between all of the batteries, each one getting 1 to 2 weeks on and 2 to 4 weeks off over the winter depending on how often I remember to swap it around. The batteries on all 3 last 7 to 10 years a piece that way.

You could junk the whole shebang for what the tires are worth and have had yourself a great deal!. I don't know why Ford had that large battery tray. I have a diesel with twice the HP and the OEM battery is a size 27. Lights off in a NY minute. I suppose it's for Northern winters and tractors that had been sitting in the shed for a month or two, no block heater, battery half discharged type thing.....additional juice to run the Thermostart primer.

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Is the battery tray shaped like the one in the picture below? If so, that is the battery tray for the gasoline engine, so since yours is a diesel a previous owner probably relaced the original tray with an incorrect one.

Off hand I dunno I also have no experience with a 3000 diesel...
I never got any life out of a 4 DLT so its off my list I know i can do better...

How many CCA battery is that Hobo? Your link shows a gasser tractor. That might not work ok on a diesel like what I've got. Mine is a 3 cyl. Diesel

Mine has a 48/h6


https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1267046&highlight=battery

I also noticed the battery tray is weird shaped so a 4 DLT battery won't fit it. What battery do I need for this tractor?

New tires on back, 8 speed tranny with PTO which is hooked up to 4' Brush hog on back. It needs new battery and some TLC, The owner says it ran a year ago but this one has been neglected cuz of a new Mahindra tractor with loader. He is sure it will fire up with new battery.

Believe it or not I got it all for $500 smackers

5M16C says it was assembled on December 16 1965 during the afternoon shift.

B1xx442 (can't make out the digits for the xx part) is a Basildon UK serial number for a tractor made to be exported, and the low number agrees with the December 16 1965 Unit Number.

The number in the middle looks like would be the model number but I can't make it out. Looks like it has 46 or 4C in it, but I can't make out the rest and neither 46 or 4C makes any sense for a 3000, which it definitely is from the pictures.

Late 1965, either "A" or "B" prefix serial number.

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Nice tires!

Dean