1955 Ford 850 center axle condition question

I recently acquired this 850. I am rebuilding the front axle, axle support pin and bushing. and spindle bushings. I have the center axle only on the tractor. I have straightened the radius rods. I am noticing that the radius rod bolts in the axle bind on the bottom side of the yoke when the axle articulates on the axle support pivot. Is this normal, or is the axle bent as well as the radius rods that I straightened? Does anyone know how to measure the axle to identify if it is bent?

I read a post about a process of using a large pipe wrench and a come-a-long on the rear axle to straighten the radius rods. Wouldn't the forces generated continue to wrap the front axle and bend it toward the rear axle rather than just straighten the radius rod?

Your help is greatly appreciated.
 
There are better ways to straighten bent radius rods.

I use a bottle jack, plank and chain.

A bit complicated to relate but I've posted the procedure here before and you can probably find it by searching the archives.

In any event, if yours are already straightened, you do not need it anyway.

Dean
 
Thanks Dean, my radius rods are straight; I used the bottle jack method.

The reason I ask about the come-a-long method is because I might be able to straighten a twisted axle. If that is what is causing the radius rod yoke bolts to bind on the axle when the axle rotates on the center pivot between stops on the support.

Does the radius rod yoke bolt bind on the axle when your axle rotates on the center pivot between stops on the support?
 
I've since sold my 860 but it did not.

If I understand your question correctly, your problem may be caused by a badly worn axle support.

Dean
 
If you are having trouble reconnecting the radius rods back into the rear sockets simply place a jack under the tractor and raise the front. Taking the weight off the front axle will allow you to reconnect the rods. It is highly doubtful that your axle is twisted.Your center bushing and pin are most likely worn.
 
Also the easiest and best way to straighten radius rods is with a wood block. No hammer,no bottle jack. Just a large wood block and your hands.
 
From years of your radius rods being bent up like a banana it has worn your axle pin and bushing. By straightening the rods in now binds. You have only completed half the job. Replace the axle pin and bushing before it eats into the axle and waddles out the hole.
 
Thank you Kirk. You are correct. Please understand the tractor condition as it is now.
The front of the tractor is safely supported on blocks. The only part of the front axle on the tractor is the center axle.
The axle pin and bushing are replaced. I'm not having a problem getting the yoke of the radius rod on the axle when the front axle is pivoted parallel to the rear axle. The bind occurs when the front axle is pivoted around the close fit of the new axle bushing and axle pin. While pivoting the front axle from the level position toward the position where the center axle contacts the engine support the radius rod yoke is enforcing a geometric change of relationship to the axle based on it's pivot location. When I pivot the axle on the axle pin I notice that the axle moves front to back on the new axle pin like one would expect but I wasn't prepared for the binding of the radius rod yoke pin against the axle. It is possible that there is no way to avoid the binding based on the clearances between these parts. Can anyone tell me if this is normal?
 
I went through the same issue with my 850, worn center pin, bent radius rods, straightened and wouldn't fit properly. I found that the axle bolster was bent throwing off the angle. I straightened it, which was easy to do and everything lined up. The tractor had a loader which I believe was used heavily and bent not only the radius rods, but the bolster too.
 
Thank you Glen.
I have read other posts with the term "bolster". If I am catching the context I believe what is referred to is shown below.

cvphoto35048.png

What process did you use to determine the engine support is bent?
What process did you use to straighten it?
How did you determine that you reformed the engine support to original condidtion?

Your help is greatly appreciated.
 
Another important piece of information is that the fit for the axle pin in the the engine support is such that when inserting the pin in either the front or rear hole individually, the pin only has a few tenths (.0001 inch) clearance. The fit through both holes is as good as it gets with only tenths of clearance. It's difficult for me to reconcile that the engine support is bent so perfectly that there is no residual stress in either wall to cause a slight misalignment thereby not allowing easy insertion of the close fitting axle pivot pin.
 

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