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Ford 3000 Brake Shaft Seals

H

hightech1953

Member
Has anyone changed the seals on the brake shaft ? Both of mine are leaking . Very minor leak just enough to make a mess. Change the seals or just live with the leaks ? It marks it spot like the old Harleys !!! It is a 1966 3000 diesel .
 
They are fairly common repair items. The biggest impediment is if the tractor has a full frame loader like a 730.
 
Something does not add up here, a '66 vintage 3000 would not have the double reduction wet brake rear end, a 3600 would not have it either. Maybe yours has been upgraded to this type?

Definitely change them out, my 4630 had leaky brake rod seals, it was one of the items on my repair list when I completely went through servicing and repairing this tractor. It is a fairly simple repair. I found some flat ended, chisel like tools with screwdriver handles at the hardware store that are perfect to use to get under each side of the flange to carefully pry them out. A pair of these work best. The flat end is sharp, similar to a wood chisel.

There is 11 gallons of fluid in this rear, good opportunity to drain and replace the fluid. Use care when pulling the drain plug, sure comes out in a hurry and I had opened the filler cap to relieve any pressure 1st, which there shouldn't be anyways. I used a deflector into the drain pan to avoid making a mess when initially removing the drain plug.
 
I think he is talking about the shaft that runs from right to left thru the Trans case.
Where the clutch pivots?
You are right he should have dry brakes, but the pedal for the left brake is still on the right side.
HTH
Keith
 

I installed both seals then installed the shaft if I do another I would install the left seal push the shaft all the way in then slide the right seal over the shaft then back the shaft out enoufh to drive the seal in...

The shaft wants to roll the lip of the seal on the right side when you push the shaft thru it :wink:
 
When I did my 3000 the shaft was shot and at the time another one was not available. I used speedy sleeves to get a good seal on the shaft and it hasn't leaked in the last 3 years. Was a little tricky getting it together with the sleeves, just took it slow and thought through how to get it done without messing up a seal.
 
Yes, disregard my post, only applies to the double reduction rear end with brake rod seals, he's talking about the cross shaft leaking, should have picked up on that having had a 3600 for well over 20 years. Was just coming off a fever this morning too, delusional LOL !
 

Replaced the seal on my BIL's 3000 recently, pulled the left rear tire and wheel to get the shaft out, shaft had lots of wear so we welded it up and had it turned back to size.
 
I'd rather pull the old bushings out rather than drive them in. How about tapping some threads into them and then screw in a bolt and use a slide hammer.
 
They make pullers specifically made for pulling all sorts of bearings and bushings but they can be pricey, especially for a one time job. You might want to see if a local auto parts store has one available to loan.
 
If you are talking about the shaft seals going through the housing from the right brake pedal to the left brake, I did mine on my '65 3000. Never did it before, biggest mess was changing the oil to give you an idea as to how complicated it.....wasn't!
 
Well I ended up not replacing the housing bushings. They showed very little wear if any. However the bushing in the pedals were all shot. Had one hell of a time getting the old ones out. So now I am waiting on parts.
 
Well got it all back together, No Leaks. I took the two bushings that I did not change on the brake shaft and put them in the right brake pedal. They are a 1/8" to long so I cut them off to correct length. Removed the zert fitting and drilled a new hole in the bushing. Changed the clutch bushings as well , it takes two. After installing all the bushings it is a super tight fit so I had to hone the bushings. There is no slop in these at all now.
 
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