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Ford TW5 II hydraulic pressure?

C

chevytaHOE5674

Well-known Member
While mowing hay the last few weeks with my TW5 series 2 I noticed the discbine didnt "jump and swing" like it once did, but I kept going because the weather said go. Got it home and put the loader on and itll barely lift itself up unless you rev the tractor to the govenor. Tossed a gauge in the remote and only have 2000psi at 1400rpm and the service book says 2500 @1400. They said to remove and inspect the relief valve and add shims to get the pressure yp, to a max shim thickness of .08 but it was already at .075. Book also states add .01 to increase 100psi, which wont work with what I have in there.

So what should I be checking before assuming the pump is the culpret?
 
Check your pressures again with cold oil. If it's good when the oil is cold, you either have a worn pump(s)
or blown seals internally within the pump.

If the pressure is still low with cold oil, suspect contamination of the sequencing relief valve within the
remote feed valve.
 
With cold oil (ambient temp is 80) I get another 100 psi or so up to 2100ish.

So relief valve innthe remote feed valve. Will find that and check it out. Thank you.
 
If I find nothing in that relief then I assume the pump/s are at fault. Any way to isolate and test them separately or just replace both?
 
Boy is that a bugger to get to. Ended up taking the shifter assembly loose to allow the valve to come out. The book says to count the turns out on the threaded adjuster plug to reset later. My plug was loose and the ball and spring were rattling around in the relief. So I took the relief from my 8830 and measured how far down the adjuster was and reset the TW one about the same. Reassembled and now had a tad over 2300psi.

Do I take it out and tighten it down a tad more and see if the pressure comes up more. Or leave it as is and figure the pumps are getting wore and replace them after hay season?
 
The engine mount pump is easy to test, but ONLY with a flowmeter. If you dead head the output line with a
pressure gauge, what was once a good pump would be a bad pump.

The main pump located in the rear axle housing can be tested directly through the pump cover, but only with
a special test adapter fitting. I do believe the repair manual has details on that.
 
I must be blind I've read thru all 50+ pages of the hydraulic section of the manual twice and dont see any reference as to how to pressure test the main pump or flow test the aux pump.

Would this be something I could find in the I&T book? If so I will have to pick one up.
 
I'm guessing that the manual you have was printed before the series 2 tractors came out. Does it have your
style of closed center remote valves in it?
 
Interesting to hear that your relief valve was that loose. Some loctite on the adjusting screw would have
been a good idea.

It should work better now that you got that valve tightened back down. You're pretty close to the relief
setting right now at 2300, so it's up to you if you wish to run it down some more.
 
It has the info on the CCLS stuff for the series II tractors. Found the pressure testing info in the transmission section. Thinking before I put the shifters back on in will pull it out and put some loctite on the adjuster.

If that doesnt help and last I will flow test the aux pump and pressure test the main pump.
 
Well I tried using it and once again within a few minutes the pressure drops off and things hardly function. One thing i noticed was the aux pump was getting very hot quickly after startup but didn't look into anything further as I've been busy making hay.

Well my 8830 ate a fan pulley and bearing and I needed a tractor so I robbed the aux pump off it for my TW in hope of making it function. The swapped pump runs much much cooler, but the problem is the same.

So since I swapped in a known good working aux pump i will skip flow testing that for now and pressure test the main pump. Anything else to look for?
 
Bern after reading and rereading my manual nowhere does it talk about pressure and flow testing the belly pump, only the low pressure side of things.

Where do I tap into the belly pump to pressure and flow test it?
 
So the saga continues. After tearing the priority valve off a 2nd time I found metal bits around the unload valve. Appears to be some sort of shim but I can't find anywhere it came from.

Still unsure where to tap into for pressure and flow testing the belly pump?
 
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