Zenith Carb question 2000 vs. 3000

H

Hogleg

Member

• May 8, 2018

• #1

I need a new carb for my 1971 2000 3 cyl. Read all the info and have decided to kick the holley to the curb.

Question is whether to get the 13913 carb which is correct for my model with the 158 CID, or go to the 3000 carb 13914 that is correct for the 3000 running the 158 CID. It is also the carb they put on the 2600 which is the follow on model for my tractor. My tractor is a LCG model that has the square trumpets, 8 speed and power steering. So it is almost a 3000 anyway.

I would like a bit more power. We use it to square bale and it could use a bit more grunt. Fuel economy is not that much of a factor.

Is this a good idea?

John

 

S

sotxbill

Well-known Member

• May 8, 2018

• #1

(reply to post at 08:18:12 05/08/18)

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Wont hurt... I would do it,, if I was gonna replace the carb anyway.

 

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IanC

Well-known Member

• May 8, 2018

• #1

Here is a chart I compiled from my Zenith catalog probably 5 years ago. Screen shot from the excel sheet I made. I omitted the "9510" from the OEM number. Pricing is probably outdated, and was for actual Zenith, not reverse engineered offshore copy thereof.

 

OP

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H

Hogleg

Member

• May 8, 2018

• #1

Was going to buy from this site. Are they the genuine article?

Off shore copies scare me...

John

 

I

IanC

Well-known Member

• May 8, 2018

• #1

P.S. The model numbers are series, and cover the 6X and 7Y units (X000 and X600)

 

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IanC

Well-known Member

• May 8, 2018

• #1

you would have to call and check with them, but probably genuine Zenith.

 

Destroked 450

Well-known Member

Location

Harned, Ky

• May 8, 2018

• #1

About the only difference between the 2000 engine and 3000 is, the 3000 engine is governed 200 rpm higher and they have different jets in the carbs
Holley carb for a 2000 has a #43 jet
Holley carb for a 3000 has a #53 jet

I'd get the carb for a 3000. At PTO speed it should give you the same power as a 3000.

 

R

Royse

Well-known Member

• May 8, 2018

• #1

If you decide to get rid of your Holley, I'd pay the shipping.

 

OP

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H

Hogleg

Member

• May 13, 2018

• #1

The heart transplant was a complete success. I used the 13914 carb and it fit up perfect. Only thing I had to do was lengthen and straighten the throttle bar. All of the sputtering and coughing is gone. And it has not mysteriously died under power like the holley was. And it seems a bit peppier.

For a person that does not know much about rebuilding carbs like me, this was an excellent solution.

John

 

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SmokeyJoe

New User

• May 14, 2018

• #1

(quoted from post at 18:53:05 05/08/18) If you decide to get rid of your Holley, I'd pay the shipping.

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I tried to rebuild a Holley on a '68 model Ford 3000, and somehow misplaced the float spring. Any chance you have any spare Holley parts? The spring is all I need.

Thanks.

SmokeyJoe

 

S

SmokeyJoe

New User

• May 14, 2018

• #1

I tried to overhaul the carburetor of a '68 model Ford 3000 and somehow lost the float spring from its Holley carb. Any chance you'd have such a thing extra in your bone yard? If so, let me know, and thanks.

SmokeyJoe

 

R

Royse

Well-known Member

• May 14, 2018

• #1

(quoted from post at 18:28:46 05/14/18)

(quoted from post at 18:53:05 05/08/18) If you decide to get rid of your Holley, I'd pay the shipping.

Click to expand...

I tried to rebuild a Holley on a '68 model Ford 3000, and somehow misplaced the float spring. Any chance you have any spare Holley parts? The spring is all I need.

Thanks.

SmokeyJoe

Click to expand...

I do not have a spare spring Joe. You might try [b:52d9c4f0fd]McDonald Carbs.[/b:52d9c4f0fd]

 

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SmokeyJoe

New User

• May 14, 2018

• #1

Thanks for the tip.

SmokeyJoe

 

OP

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H

Hogleg

Member

• May 24, 2018

• #1

As a followup, the bigger carb is proving to have been a great idea. I just got done raking 12 acres of grass hay. I pull a 10 wheel rake behind the tractor. With the new carb, the tractor definitely has more guts. It pulled the rake and held speed much better than the old carb. I could set the hand throttle and just drive. With the older Holley, I would set the hand throttle then have to give it a bit more juice with the foot throttle when it would bog down. Not any more, it just flat runs...smooth.

Did not notice that much difference in fuel usage. Did not accurately measure it. I looked at the fuel level in the tank with a flashlight before and it was a bit over half full. Now it looks like it is about an inch lower.

Also, no more sloppy running when you start it up cold. Idles right up and no coughing or sputtering. That is nice...

John

 

R

Royse

Well-known Member

• May 24, 2018

• #1

Glad to hear it John! Thanks for sending me the old carb too.
I haven't had a chance to tear it apart yet, but I suspect it has
a stuck pump. Seems like every one I've taken apart has had.

 

OP

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H

Hogleg

Member

• May 25, 2018

• #1

Let me know what you find...

John

 

OP

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H

Hogleg

Member

• Jun 15, 2019

• #1

A year after this update I find that the carb is leaking fuel when sitting. Fuel in the oil. I have heard this is common for these carbs. What I find irritating is that this is a brand new carb. Guess I am off to find a new seat and needle.

 

Destroked 450

Well-known Member

Location

Harned, Ky

• Jun 15, 2019

• #1

To get fuel in the oil the carb will had to leak the intake full of fuel.
Sounds like the mechanical flue pump behind the generator has a seal leaking.

 

OP

OP

H

Hogleg

Member

• Jun 16, 2019

• #1

You know, I was just thinking that. I had replaced the fuel pump last year. But looking where the carb is sitting it would have to flow up to leak fuel into the engine from the carb. The carb drips from the small hole a bit after you shut it off so I was suspecting a float issue.

Guess I need to install another fuel pump.

That is a PITA to install for sure.

John