(quoted from post at 10:47:09 06/07/19) I?ll give a run down in order:
1. SOS selector and neutral safety quit working
when put in Park. I tried adjusting the selector for it
to engage without success. Tried many times.
2. Worked around neutral safety switch issue by
disconnecting that wire from push button and
adding wire on push button to ground on battery.
3. Tractor started and ran fine. Worked like a
charm knowing that i need to be careful.
4. SOS early ORC failing in 1, 2, 5, 6, 9 and R1.
Decided to adjust Band 1 and add fresh tranny fluid
and other fluids.
5. New rotor, cap, wires for tune up.
6. Tractor started nicely over past month and
engine fine.
7. After fluid change - went to start tractor after it
sat for a few days. Then - suddenly at this first start
attempt - starter motor would not shut off. Noticed
smoke coning from it (not much) freaked out, and
finally had to pull positive main feed from battery
terminal to right side of solenoid to shut starter off.
The starter was disengaged from the flywheel while
tractor ran and when engine shut down...yet starter
continued to spin. Interesting that when i turned the
key switch off the starter continued to spin although
engine ignition shutdown.
8. Push button was ineffective after this. Replaced
with new one. Thought maybe the new push button
would fix this - perhaps years in weather caught up
to it. But replacement had no effect.
9. Tractor fired up now with just key switch. But
starter kept spinning. Replaced solenoid. Also
replaced key switch as it was old.
10. With new solenoid - same issue. Engine
started, starter motor would not shut down. Pull
cable from battery to shut starter off after shutting
down engine.
11. Started tractor this morning - key switch- but
(push button not working).Pulled cable off of starter
motor to keep it from overheating. Tractor engine
running fine.
12. Shut down tractor. Went to restart, by
connecting cable to starter. Turned key switch, no
power. Everything dead. Battery is fully charged.
Ammeter showing 12v..
13. Gave up.
Alright, thanks for the run down. To be completely honest, there are sharper fellas than me on this board, but I will try to help.
You indicate transmission fluid change (and others) in No. 4 and follow with good operation for a month. You then start No. 7 with "After fluid change ..." - What fluid change?when?
I assume you are referring to the changed transmission fluid and further assume you drained from the screened port on the left side and filled in the plug location on the upper right side (I added a street 90 iron fitting to make it easier to fill and lets me put a little more oil in).
If you changed the transmission oil as described, there is little chance it affected anything. IF you removed the top cover or changed the transmission fluid some other way, it may have contributed to the problem.
If the fluid change did not contribute, it would seem a little bit of a fluke, but your description points to a continuously closed starter solenoid. IF working properly before, there are only two things that could occur: 1) the grounding side of the solenoid circuit became continuously grounded instead of only when the start button is depressed OR 2) the starter solenoid stuck when started and remained closed (keeping power going to the starter).
No.s 9-11 describe the expected behavior if either of the issues arose.
After hooking the starter back up, tried to start with no success, lost power to or from the ignition switch.
With a volt-ohm meter or test light, follow your voltage and see where you lose it. By that, I mean to test power to the key switch (one side should have power continuously). By putting the key in and turning it, you typically provide power to a "junction block". That junction block then provides power to the coil, gen or alternator, etc. There will almost always be a fuse in the main line between the ignition switch and the "junction block". If there is a fuse in this line, it may be blown.
If you have power at the "junction block", then confirm power to the ignition (i) stud on the four post starter solenoid. If you have power there, check the two large sides of the starter solenoid for power. One will be the line from the battery (which should always have power), the other side will lead to the starter and should only have power when the solenoid is closed. If you see power on both sides of the solenoid without the push button grounded, you know the solenoid is "stuck". This condition can often be temporarily remedied by hitting the solenoid with the handle or a screw driver or something else reasonable small.
If/when you do have power on both sides of the solenoid and the starter isn't spinning, check at starter stud. More than likely you have a poor connection between the battery/solenoid/starter. The motto is "bright and tight". Even bright and tight connections can be poor if using the pinch on ends and they are not installed well.
Lastly, I didn't want to start with this, but as soon as you get past this hump, please take the time to remedy your Park/N safety switch. It does take care to remove the transmission top cover and re-install, that safety switch is crucial in my opinion.
If the gear selector accidentally ends up in ,most likely, R2 and it does start in gear, it will run you or somebody else over before you know it OR back you into something you didn't want to hit. Very dangerous (and trust me, I am not part of the safety police), it needs corrected.
If you don't have a test light or better yet a volt ohm meter, start by getting one.
Lastly and of no consequence right now, an Ammeter will measure current and should be pointed at the zero. If you are seeing volts, you are looking at a volt meter.
Good hunting.
Chris