1997 Ford / New Holland 4630 192CI Turbo Diesel Overhaul

This message is a reply to an archived post by Destroked 450 on February 11, 2019 at 14:50:46.
The original subject was "Re: 1997 Ford New Holland 4630 192CI Turbo Diesel Overhaul".

As fate had it, what started out as a simple inframe turned into a
complete teardown to to broken rings, and all cylinders being way
out of spec. Cam was fine, crank was fine.

The most puzzling thing was that it looked like someone was in this
engine recently. The crank had been turned to .20, bearings looked
more or less fine. Loads of black rtv on every mating surface made
clean up very difficult.

When I pulled the injection timing gear it was set to the 4 cylinder
mark instead of 3.

Needless to say the head and block were sent out. The block was
cleaned and sleeved. New pistons, rings and pins, new bearings all
around. New seals. New clutch disc. New oil pump. New oil and temp
senders with an added oil pressure gauge.

This all took some time due to schedules and down time at the shop,
but this week she is finally back together.









I will post better pics of the completed project soon.

Nice job. Any chance you can post a few pictures of your engine stand adapter. From what I can see, it supports the 3 cyl well. Another post of the work you did, the sources you used for parts, and the approximate (current) prices for parts and machine work would go a long ways towards sending someone else in the right direction who's facing a similar problem.

I originally started a thread for this project months ago, but I hadn't had much time to update it. When I tried to post to it it started a new thread. Maybe a mod can move it if it they feel it needs to be put together.

My boss picked this up at auction and we quickly learned why it seemed a bargain. Massive amounts of blow-by coming from the crankcase vent, all the fresh paint loaded up with caked on oil. Smoked terribly, at all times white smoke poured out. I cracked lines at injectors to isolate the problem cylinder. 1 and 2 made a very small difference in performance, number 3 changed nothing. It was ran in this condition off and on. injectors were serviced and a new turbo installed. not much changed and it was ran until it had to be parked because of the excessive oil being blown all over the field.








This project started in january of this year. Through the whole process I had the 2500 page 10 and 30 series manual. Once the head was off and rotating assembly taken apart, I used a dial bore gauge and found that the 3rd cylinder was something like .010"+ larger than the other 2, and about .015" over spec. Cylinder was scuffed up, piston loaded with carbon. Lots of oil in coolant and vice versa. The head gasket looked alright, nothing too crazy. The whole block was filled with crud. The head was rebuilt by a reputable shop in town, and then the block was sent to be sleeved and crank to be polished. Everything looked like metal again!

-The oil and temp sender, clutch disk and oil pump came from yesterdays tractors. We got expedited shipping and received the order less than 24 hours after it was placed; impressive!
-mahle gasket and seal sets, clevite and reliance bearings, and new piston and ring sets were ordered through a local auto shop that helps us with tractors sometimes.
-air filter and tach cable housing came from ebay.
-bosh aftermarket oil pressure gauge from auto store.




I used permatex shellac on most gaskets other than head gasket. permatex assembbly lube on pistons and the white assembly grease on bearings and cam lifters.




I normally wouldn't wire wheel gaskets on these applications but there was a load of rtv on all of it. so i did all wire wheeling outside, blew off with an air gun and the cleaned with solvent before returning to the shop(I don't like wires in the oil pan )

everything was thoroughly cleaned in solvent before assembly, and aside from waiting on parts and the machine shop, it went pretty smooth.

Check, these were fabricated well and it
was by far our cheapest option to mount
this thing with a standard engine stand.
The 192 seemed small enough to make it
work. I think we paid 40 bucks for a
neighbor to put these together. Held on
with grade 8 bolts all around.

Thanks for the pictures and narrative. This will help someone else who doesn't know they can do it themselves. You engine stand adapters are an easy way to turn any engine stand into a 3cyl stand.