First Post: Refreshing Ford 3000 diesel

New here, from Houston, Texas.

Looking to get a little education in identifying and servicing this tractor. I'm doing the work to get it going for my dad, and will test it out around here before i take it to him. He's closing in on 70, so I want to get as much done to make it easy to use for him. He's handy (taught me since I was 5 or 6), so he CAN handle any maintenance, but I want to try to lighten that load for him.

The tractor is a Ford 3000 (I think). I think it's a '71? Not sure how to tell the exact year.

It has a diesel, 8 speed transmission and it's 4wd (by pictures, it looks to be a Schindler front axle?). It also has an aftermarket loader (TAS ML280; TAS seems to have gone out of business).

I'm posting here for help and guidance on the things not obvious that may need to be looked at.

The tractor spent a considerable amount of time parked and out of use (maybe 5 or 6 years), and so I'm about to replace all the fluids.

I've done a little research and ordered to 5gal buckets of UTF for that job. I've not looked into any drain and fill procedures, or are of the nuances like bleeding the hydraulic system afterwards. This will be my next task.

One of the hydraulic rods was leaking and the chrome plate was de-laminating, so I order a couple replacements from Magister (WCT 2.5x26 with 1-inch pins). The hydraulic fittings are not in the same location or orientation, so I will have to get some hardline and fittings to bring one of them closer to the correct location.

Ordered a battery tray and oil bath air cleaner from this site (both were rusted out; air filter was probably serviceable, but the new one looks great).

I think it has an issue with the charging system judging by the wiring which looks to have been re-arranged by talented birds, or some other critter. A lot of stuff is chewn through or missing coating, but it presently starts and runs fine (just to load/unload from the trailer so far).

It does take a little starting ether to get going after a few days sitting. Was thinking of trying to add / replace the manifold heater (not sure if it has one, or how straight forward it would be to add one?).

It does look like the hood and radiator shroud of a 68-75 3000, but those never came form th efactory with AWD or 4WD, so that was added after it left the Ford factory. There were a number of companies that did the AWD/4WD conversions.

To identify what model Ford tractor it is, first look under the right sie hood panel, above the battery, for a foil sticker. If that sticker is there post the numbers on it. If the sticker is not there or is illegible, look on the flat spot on the transmission bell housing that is just above and toward the rear of the tractor from the starter on the right side of the tractor. Some of the numbers from the sticker will be stamped into that flat spot. Unfortunately, the flat spot is behind the right upright of that loader frame so the numbers will be hard to get to in order to read them.

If you post a few more pictures form other angles it would help us to determine what it is even if you can't find the numbers on the sticker or bell housing.

Took a few more pictures. The tag looks mostly legible. I hadn't even noticed it before.

A few more pictures. The other label is a service tag by the looks. Written in German?

Battery tray is in. Took some persuasion, but got everything lined up well enough. Not a direct fit, but more than manageable.

C1012C is a 3000 with a diesel engine, non-live PTO and an 8 speed transmission, which is what it appears to be from all of the pictures.

2E08B says it left the assembly line on May 8 1972 during the day shift.

B181134 is a Basildon UK serial number which means it was assembled at that plant, and it was built to be exported outside of the UK. Basildon tractors built to be sold domecstically in the UK had a separate serial number range that started at B800001 and went up from there.

As I said earlier, the 4WD system was added after it left the Ford factory and could have been done by one of a few different companies. You might want to contact Tony Jacobs, who is a member here and who now owns whats left of the Elenco company, which is one of the companies that made the after market 4WD systems for the Ford tractors. Even if yours isn't an Elenco, he will probably be able to tell you who made it and possibly more info about it. It looks like the drive shaft going to the front differential is missing on yours.

Based on the tag, it looks like this is a 1972 built in the UK plant for export (based on the serial number. But I'm completely sure on that).

Second hand stories say this one went to Germany for a bit and then to Canada not long after. No telling how it ended up in Texas.

I've been researching correct fluids and for the most part I understand these are pretty forgiving.

I picked up some Peak Fleetcharge SCA precharge coolant.

Rotella 15w-40 for the oil change.

Please let me know if either of those sound out of place.

Sean,

Thanks for the information! Way more than I found. I was editing my post at the time yours went up, so apologies that my immediate follow up did not acknowledge your insight. It is very much appreciated.

I had to educate myself on what a 'live PTO' was. Then i realized I had already educated myself on what a non-live PTO is. About 12 years ago I was driving this tractor (my uncle recently gave it to my dad) and nearly pushed over a fence post while cutting grass. Clutched out, but did not disengage the PTO and the brush hog kept pushing.

I will contact Tony.

The loader blocks the driveshaft path. I'm planning on trying to re-fab that mount so that the driveshaft has a loop to run though. It will have to be a kind of strange and ob-long loop so that the shaft can pivot down with the front axle.

Also, the pinion bearings are shot in the front axle. No clue where to get them, but I will have to replace them before I can reconnect the driveshaft.

The other task I'm working on is figuring out how the manifold heater works. It does have one, but the hot wire to the manifold injector is not connected. I need to figure out where that wire should originate from. Also, the fuel line is routed to what seems to be a solenoid valve on the firewall. Not sure if that is functioning. Going to have to play with all that some tomorrow.

The manifold heater is called a Therm-O-Start. It should have both an electrical wire and a fuel line connected to it. The fuel line should come from the return line that returns the excess fuel from the pump and injectors back to the tank. There may just be a Tee in the return line that it's connected to, or there may be a small holding tank in line with the return line that the line to the Therm-O-Start connects to. When it is energized with electricity an electric heating element heats up, which causes a valve to open and let some fuel dribble in onto the hot element, and then the fuel catches on fire inside the manifold. Then when the starter turns the engine the hot air and burning fuel get sucked into the cylinders heating them up to aid in quicker starting.

The original key switch for that tractor should have the "Off" position in the middle, with the key straight up and down. The normal "Run" position is one click to the right of "off" and the normal "Start" position is spring loaded to the right of that. The "Heat" position is one click to the left of "Off", and you turn it there in cold temperatures and leave it there for 30 seconds or so in order for the Therm-O-Start to do its thing, and then there's another spring loaded "Start" position to the left of that which should start the engine and the key will return to the "Off" position once you release it, so if you want the gauges to work you need to remember to turn the key one click to the right again.

If the key switch has ever been replaced then the odds are that it has the later style diesel key switch with "Off" all of the way to the left. If so, then the "Heat" position is halfway between the "Run" and "Start" positions and you have to hold it there, against the spring force for 30 seconds before turning it to the "Start" position to start it when it's cold.

Sean,

Thanks much for the information. I checked the key and it doesnt turn left (CCW) easily. It does seem to have a long sweep right (cw). I will try to connect power tothe manifold injector / heater (new wiring harness on the way) and see if it works. The generator wiring was also cut, so i will be troubleshooting that system as well.

At some point, someone cut wires to get down to the bare minimum to start and operate gauges, it seems. Not much is connected at the moment.