Fred Werring
Well-known Member
Been posting on the Tractor Talk forum, and had posted here last year, thought I'd post a summary.
A dual MC (clutch/brake) for a 1966 Chevy C10 is the same as the MC's on the 8700...except for the seals/cups, and reservoir cover.
The seals in the Chevy MC are made for DOT3 brake and will swell over time making the bores stick.
I know this cause I took a chance when I bought it last year and installed it as is hoping the seals would be compatible. Worked fine last summer/fall. Got the tractor out a week ago, pistons were sticking in the bores, locking up the brakes. Cups swollen big time.
So if you've got one of these MC's with the bores so pitted you can't get them honed out, buy an MC like linked to below, pull the guts out (there is a seal under the spring in one of the bores, don't miss it), clean it out good, and replace guts with a rebuild kit sold for an 8700. I'm using one of the aftermarket rebuild kits from YTmag for $58 vs the $200 kit from New Holland, not sure what the difference is. Price out a new or rebuilt MC from New Holland if you want severe sticker shock.
Lessons learned.
You need to swap the reservoir covers, but the threads are not the same between the 2 MC's for the bolt that holds it down. Figure on getting a longer bolt.
I should have left the flat cover on when the new MC was getting installed (to keep dirt out) and swapped the covers once the MC was bolted to the firewall...my tractor has a cab, took a fair amount of manipulating to get that MC in there with the taller cover on it.
Takes forever to get it bled if it's installed dry. If this ever has to come out again, I'll get a couple plugs for the line ports to retain fluid after bench bleeding it. Tried bench bleeding last year, but the way the MC gets twisted around during installation, lost all the fluid anyway. If I had plugs, could have done it.
FWIW
Fred
1966 Chevy C10 MC on Amazon
A dual MC (clutch/brake) for a 1966 Chevy C10 is the same as the MC's on the 8700...except for the seals/cups, and reservoir cover.
The seals in the Chevy MC are made for DOT3 brake and will swell over time making the bores stick.
I know this cause I took a chance when I bought it last year and installed it as is hoping the seals would be compatible. Worked fine last summer/fall. Got the tractor out a week ago, pistons were sticking in the bores, locking up the brakes. Cups swollen big time.
So if you've got one of these MC's with the bores so pitted you can't get them honed out, buy an MC like linked to below, pull the guts out (there is a seal under the spring in one of the bores, don't miss it), clean it out good, and replace guts with a rebuild kit sold for an 8700. I'm using one of the aftermarket rebuild kits from YTmag for $58 vs the $200 kit from New Holland, not sure what the difference is. Price out a new or rebuilt MC from New Holland if you want severe sticker shock.
Lessons learned.
You need to swap the reservoir covers, but the threads are not the same between the 2 MC's for the bolt that holds it down. Figure on getting a longer bolt.
I should have left the flat cover on when the new MC was getting installed (to keep dirt out) and swapped the covers once the MC was bolted to the firewall...my tractor has a cab, took a fair amount of manipulating to get that MC in there with the taller cover on it.
Takes forever to get it bled if it's installed dry. If this ever has to come out again, I'll get a couple plugs for the line ports to retain fluid after bench bleeding it. Tried bench bleeding last year, but the way the MC gets twisted around during installation, lost all the fluid anyway. If I had plugs, could have done it.
FWIW
Fred
1966 Chevy C10 MC on Amazon