Lift cover

TinCan · Dec 31, 2018

Yesterday I pull the cover off my '63 4000. It was clean looking inside the case, but the underside of it was gunky. I completely tore it down, except for the lift arms, and the cylinder assembly. I quit there to sit with my wife. She's been six for a few days, she comes first.

I don't now the correct way of tearing it down, but it's apart, and nothing got broke. lol I'll definitely read my service book on how to reassemble it. I mopped up the black oil that was left after draining it. I didn't feel any type of grit at all in it. I was surprised to see the inside painted red. To me everything look in great shape.

I notice that one of the O-rings that is on the case-cover seam, one didn't make it into the hole it suppose to be in. It was smashed. You can see what there was of it, in the picture of the cover.

One thing, I couldn't get the draft lever to engage before, and with it sitting on the bench, I could not get the lever to move. The lever is not frozen, it moves, it wouldn't engage. Nothing inside was stuck, it all moves freely.

The follower pin looked a lot better then I was expecting to see. It has some wear on it but not bad. it looked it the arm has been worn by the part I the follower rides on. (I have no idea what it's called ....yet!) I will some how press the pin out and rotate it, and press it back in. Some how, I have no press, just clamps, and a vice.

I took every thing apart without changing any adjustments. How will I set the adjustments, without a lift bar gage tool thingy.

Next thing I do is, clean everything. It's a black mess oily mess.

If you see something that needs attention, or something I need to do to it, please tell me.

Thanks, Pat

Dean · Dec 31, 2018

The coating on the inside is Glyptol rather than paint. It is intended to prevent rusting of the cast iron. Do not wash it with gasoline, as gasoline will dissolve Glyptol.

From the photos, it appears that your mechanism is badly damaged. Not certain, as it could be an optical illusion. Is the cast steel arm into which the cam follower pin is inserted bent? Was the cam follower pin riding properly on the rock shaft cam?

From the photo, it appears that the pin is unworn. This is almost unheard of. Perhaps the arm is bent and the pin has not been riding on the cam.

Was position control working properly. Draft control almost never does unless/until someone has properly repaired/readjusted the mechanism.

Dean

Michaels Dad · Dec 31, 2018

Is it my eyes, or does it look like some bubble gum welding repairs?

JMOR · Dec 31, 2018

(quoted from post at 09:49:10 12/31/18) Is it my eyes, or does it look like some bubble gum welding repairs?

'll reserve comments until I see arm with cam follower pin cleaned up and pictured straight on.

WayneIA · Dec 31, 2018

Wandering if the arm with the cam on it is properly position on the shaft since the cam seems to be wearing into the lever holding the follower pin. This could possibly be causing a binding of the linkage. This is possibly the reason the cam follower pin is not worn real bad since it also was wearing on the pin arm .

TinCan · Dec 31, 2018

I don't know why it loaded so many pictures!

I'll see about getting out to clean it up tomorrow. Today was a doctor day, and it was 73 out too! Never fails, doctors are slow, when you want to get home, and play!

There is no weld on it, it's just muddy oil gunk stuck on it. It's also black, not the brown color it shows.

"The coating on the inside is Glyptol rather than paint. It is intended to prevent rusting of the cast iron. Do not wash it with gasoline, as gasoline will dissolve Glyptol."

Does that mean not to us Kerosene also?

If I pour some kerosene into it (if it's ok to use in it) will it also run out into, then out of the rear diff drain? Or are they separated by a wall at the bottom. I couldn't touch back far enough to tell.

Thanks, Pat

Hobo,NC · Dec 31, 2018

Why are you there what was the main issue that lead you to take the cover off...

Larry NCKS · Dec 31, 2018

(quoted from post at 08:00:40 12/31/18 ) I quit there to sit with my wife. She's been six for a few days, she comes first.

Wow! They must really get married young where you are. Was she 2 when you married?
8) :lol: 8) :lol: 8)

Sorry couldn't resist! Hope she gets well soon!

Looks like when she does, you've definitely got more work cut out for you. But you're a lot closer than you were.

TinCan · Jan 1, 2019

Larry,
Thanks, you made me laugh. I didn't even realize that I wrote Six, I did mean sick.

She had a surgery about 8 years ago, and the surgeon accidentally cut into her Vagus nerve, paralyzing her stomach. She's almost died 4 times from it. Twice they did not think they'd get her back, but did. She had a stomach pace maker install ( it's like a heart pace maker) in a experimental surgery, and it help her about 75% She is slowly getting better, but will never be her old self again. She IS my best friend!!!

Thanks, Pat

TinCan · Jan 1, 2019

(quoted from post at 22:33:43 12/31/18)
Why are you there what was the main issue that lead you to take the cover off...

I have been working on this tractor since I bought it a little over a year ago. I originally started to clean it, and paint it. Also to fix anything I found along the way.

Every time I remove a bolt, it is holding something that needs to be fixed, repaired or replaced.

I found that the pin & plate on the lift spring was bad, so I figured with the luck I've had so far, I needed to look inside.

I don't want to Miss fixing something, and have a problem after I get it all back together. So, I'm looking for problems now, and fixing them now. I just didn't think I'd find so much wrong with the engine. It was "Working good when parked" 15 years ago, type thing I bought. Which now, I could not understand how it ran at all.

I still will need to open up the SOS for a look see inside. I don't think I'm going to open the differential for a look see. But I do have to fix the bolts around the PTO shaft. 2 correct bolts, 1 tapped for a bigger bolt, and 1 broke out the side. The hitch plate is welded to the PTO plate. I had to cut the spot welds that held the bolts from coming out.

But that will be another thread! lol

Pat

Larry NCKS · Jan 1, 2019

.

Glad it made you laugh. Sorry to hear about your wife's condition. Many prayers for her . . . and you!

Dean · Jan 1, 2019

I think Kerosene or mineral spirits is OK but not sure.

Try it in a small spot.

Dean

TinCan · Jan 1, 2019

(quoted from post at 13:09:47 01/01/19) I think Kerosene or mineral spirits is OK but not sure.

Try it in a small spot.

Dean

It is, I used it today to clean the under side of the cover.

Thanks, Pat

TinCan · Jan 1, 2019

(quoted from post at 22:33:43 12/31/18)
Why are you there what was the main issue that lead you to take the cover off...

Well, things like this! I just knew there would be something I had to fix.

If you look down the shaft, it has a very light twist near inside end of the splines.

Here are some pictures for the follower pin/arm cleaned up also.

TinCan · Jan 1, 2019

I don't know why it keeps putting copies of the pictures. I only posted one of each!

Working on it today, I could not get the screw out on top of the draft lever, and the end of the lift check valve out, it's stuck tight. I am soaking it with blaster over night, and I'll see if any thing happens tomorrow.

If not, any idea's to get it out.

Thanks, Pat

Hobo,NC · Jan 1, 2019

I have parts from a 600 lift cover if they are the same.

Dollar Bill · Jan 2, 2019

I could not get the screw out on top of the draft lever

Remove the paint from around the head and use a hand held impact driver fitted with a drag link socket.

TinCan · Jan 2, 2019

Bill,
The picture is before I got serious about it. Today I'll get more Serious about it!

I have removed the paint, and did use a impact screwdriver on it, and it did nothing. I will be re addressing it today. If need be, I'll use a little heat & wax on it, then Hit! it some more.

TinCan · Jan 2, 2019

Hobo,
I'm going to try the grind test, to make sure it's cast steel, and not iron. Then if it is, I'll grind into it, and try welding it up first. If it does not work out good. I'll still need to replace it.

Now I see why the leveling are has a nut welded to the top of the lower half. and why the screw part looks worn badly. Time for a replacement one of those also.

I will win, the tractor has to run out of bad parts some time! After this, I will open up the SOS for a look-see inside. They didn't replace the side cover for no reason. I believe it's the 2-3 band, or brake ? cover.

PM me about the one you have, if I decide I really need to replace it. My parts book say's '53-54 are the same, and '55-64 are the same. I would have to look up a 600 to see what years they are.

Thanks, Pat

Hobo,NC · Jan 2, 2019

Its cast steel weld away...

Dean · Jan 2, 2019

Something is definitely not right causing the rock shaft cam to ride against the lever arm. Was the rock shaft not centered?

I've seen cracks as pictured in the rock shaft lever arm before. V it out and weld it or replace it with a good one.

Turn the rock shaft end for end upon replacing and replace the bushings. It's easy and cheap now that you have the rock shaft out.

Dean

Dean · Jan 2, 2019

They are.

Dean

Dean · Jan 2, 2019

Theoretically, the lever arm floats on the rock shaft splines but most have long since rusted.

The rock shaft is positioned in the housing by the bolts and washers on each end. If the lever arm is stuck and someone misadjusted the centering bolts, the rock shaft will not be centered.

Dean

Dollar Bill · Jan 2, 2019

TinCan, do you notice any wear on the lift cover or the upper lift arms that would allow the rock shaft not to center itself?

TinCan · Jan 2, 2019

I'll check tomorrow. Just got home, I put the wife in the hospital. I was there all day. She has pneumonia.

Pat

Dollar Bill · Jan 3, 2019

I put the wife in the hospital.

Here's wishing her a speedy recovery!

TinCan · Jan 5, 2019

Bill,
Thanks, she came home yesterday. They said that her insurance forced them to send her home, even though she still feels like crap.

Pat

TinCan · Jan 5, 2019

(quoted from post at 14:01:14 01/02/19) TinCan, do you notice any wear on the lift cover or the upper lift arms that would allow the rock shaft not to center itself?

I looked it over today, I do not see where it had been rubbing the sides.

How do I get the shaft out of the

TinCan · Jan 5, 2019

Some how I posted before I was done writing earlier. My mind is on the wife. It's a good thing I wasn't cleaning my gun then!

How do I get the pilot out of the hole. I have grabbed it with a pliers, but no way is it going to move. I soaked it with blaster for a couple of days, but didn't help. It all looks clean, but won't budge. What's the tip to remove it?

Thanks, Pat

Hobo,NC · Jan 5, 2019

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=357903&highlight=kota

Royse · Jan 5, 2019

If we're looking at the part I think we are, at the front of the lift
cover, I had to drill and tap mine. Then screw a bolt into it with
a plate set against the front of the cover and a second nut to use
as a puller to get it out. I supposed I could have used a slide
hammer at that point too if I could get the cover to stay still.
Hopefully, yours is not the same issue.

TinCan · Jan 5, 2019

Hobo,
Thanks, but that's for the removing the lift arm shaft. I'm at the other end, under the accessory plate, trying to get to the back pressure valve.

Thanks, Pat

Hobo,NC · Jan 5, 2019

I have not BTDT yet...

TinCan · Jan 6, 2019

(quoted from post at 23:04:28 01/05/19)
I have not BTDT yet...

Hmm, BTDT. I don't do initials well, I'm old school. But I do have O.L.D. syndrome starting!

Pat

TinCan · Jan 6, 2019

Royse,
Yes, it is the front of the lift cover. I'll do that. I just need to make sure I don't drill clean through it. It doesn't matter, but what size did you tap it?

Thanks, Pat

Hobo,NC · Jan 6, 2019

Been There Done That.

TinCan · Jan 7, 2019

I drilled through the end of the polit. It was thinner then I thought it would be. While I was taping it, it came loose, and came out. I removed the parts down to the valve seat. Do I need to pull that out or not. The valve inside moves freely.

If I should pull it, what's the easiest way without a puller. It's the only part that I have not removed in the lift plate. I'll remove it if you think I should, but then again, I don't want to screw up the seat removing it, and putting it back in, just to say "ok"

I also removed the follower pin, turned it around, and put it back in. I also ground, and welded up the lift arm ram. It went good.

Thanks, Pat

TinCan · Jan 7, 2019

(quoted from post at 08:56:36 01/07/19)

I drilled through the end of the polit.

I guess my fingers didn't get the brain message right! It should be "Pilot", not polit!

Pat

TinCan · Jan 12, 2019

Ok, it's been a few days since I worked on the lift cover. I had been side tracked by a few things. Plus I bought a '89 chevy truck, I pulled the engine & tranny out, and have it ready to scrap. I bought it for the engine, and I'm going to sell the tranny.

I did get the pilot out as I said. But now, how do I get the back pressure valve "seat" out, without damaging it, so that I can replace the o-ring on it? Or do I need to? It's clean, and moves freely. But it's the only part that I have not removed from the lift cover.

Thanks, Pat

Royse · Jan 12, 2019

I'm not much help here Pat, but I'm thinking if it ain't broke, don't fix it
until it is broke. Is there something that points to the seat as a problem?

TinCan · Jan 18, 2019

I decided not to remove it. It moves good & easy, so it will stay in.

I have ordered my O-rings last night. Every o-ring in the lift cover along with the large piston o-ring, 17 in all. I got them from Fastenal online. You have a choice from 2 &3 different type of materials.

I got all Nitrile (Buna) standard O-rings Cost me $2.00, since I didn't want to drive 40 miles to pick them up (closest Fastenal to me), I paid $4.19 for them to be shipped to me. Total is $6.19 plus $.69 tax is $6.89.

I'll work on other parts, while I am waiting for them to arrive.

Thanks, Pat

TinCan · May 27, 2019

Well with all the other work I had to get done for others, to make some money for my toys, and house projects, I finally got around to getting the lift cover back together, and back on the tractor. Seemed like it took for ever to get around to it again!

I took the front tires off the rims. I knew I was going to need to do some welding around the valve stem on one, as someone did at one time on the other one. But, I'm not so sure it's going to be worth it. I might just have to find a couple of different ones, at least one. I'll see after I get them out of a molasses bath.

So for now, I'm going to reseal the PTO shaft, and a new gasket, fix the bolt holes back there. Then pull the rear tire and check the brakes.

While I'm taking care of the tin parts.

Pat

Michaels Dad · May 27, 2019

The rims look like "yard art" pieces to me.

TinCan · May 28, 2019

I agree, but I don't thing it would be much of a "yard art" to me, that pile is getting to tall.

It's just another one of those things that every time I remove a bolt on this thing, it's holding something that needs to be rebuilt, replaced, or repaired! I would like to get to use it some time! lol

Like I said, on to the brakes is next. I will not quit, and just use it, it all has to be fixed first! There is a place that has a bunch of tractors at. I will see about buying some used front rims, before buying new ones. My kitty for the tractor, as for any thing is small. I have to find work to buy parts. I know of a couple of C4's that need to be rebuilt.

Pat

Royse · May 28, 2019

Many standard implement rims fit. Just make sure the dish isn't
too much or it will rub the spindle unless you turn it inside out.

TinCan · Jun 25, 2019

Well, for the hell of it. I through the one rim into my molasses bath for 5 days, to see how it would look like without all the rust on it. I took it out today and pressure washed it. Here is what it came out as. It has flash rust on it because it's clean wet steel, so I took my 3" wire wheel to it lightly and shinny steel again!

I just put the other wheel in today, I only have my smaller tank setup right now, to soak smaller things in.

If I were to weld a plate over it like the other wheel, and drill a new valve stem hole, it should work again, they had, and will have liners & inner tubes again.

Then through them back in the molasses vat to get rid of the last of the rust (black spots) off them, then prime & paint them.

Pat

TinCan · Jun 25, 2019

Sorry, I was thinking I started a new thread with this! Guess I didn't!!!

Pat

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