Ford 3000 gas engine won't stay started

New Member
My 3000 will start right off but as soon as the key switch is released from the start position to the run position it shuts off. If left in the start position it continues to crank and run. I removed the sediment bowl and cleaned it and the filter, there was gas there and it starts off right away every time so I'm leaning more towards an electrical issue than gas.

I have 12 volts at the key switch terminal that goes to the ignition coil and 12 volts were it connects to the ignition coil. That wire is in rough shape so I tried bypassing it with a new wire which when tested overheated the wire and connector. It seems there may be some kind of resistor build into the wire (that is not shown in the wiring diagram) so I have out it back the way it was and have still have the original problem.

Related or coincidence? The stinger shaft for the front mounted hydraulic pump broke over the weekend so I had to remove the hood, grill, and radiator to replace it. After that job was completed the tractor started right up and test ran with no issue. It sat for 2 days and developed this problem.

I'm thinking possibly a bar ignition coil, but I'm no mechanic so any thoughts are greatly appreciated!
 
When the tractor is starting there is a wire from the solenoid to the coil that provides 12 volts to the coil for starting. When the key is returned to the on position the coil is fed power through a resistor wire.

Mark
Item 24
 
Read mhb description

Sounds like your resistance wire from switch to coil is failing. Current through the resistance will cause heat
 

Thanks for the replies. It's hard to read the parts page you linked on my phone but I'll check it out on my computer tomorrow.

So bypassing that resistor wire explains why my test wire overheated. I get 12 volts at the positive lug of the coil with the switch in run. Would this be normal with a bad resistor wire? I doubt the wire is that expensive, I'll call my local dealer to see how soon they can get one.
 
I don't think that resistance wire is available any longer. You can go to any auto parts store and ask for a ballast resistor for almost any late 60's or early 70's Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth car and put that in line with a regular wire between the run position on the key switch and the coil.
 
So I've done some more research and this is what I got. With the key in the run position I have 12 volts on the key switch lug heading to the ignition coil. I also have 12 volts on the other end of the resistance wire (which I can see is in place) so the resistance wire is faulty and not providing the correct voltage drop.

However from what I've read the tractor should still run with the 12 volts present it will just burn up the points quicker. So if the points are burned up will it start but not run?

I'm going to get a ballast resistor from the autoparts store instead of a new resistor wire because it's more readily available. I'll run a new wire from key to coil through the new resistor clean up the points the best I can and try it.

I think I'm also going to order a new key switch, distributor repair kit with new points and rotor, and a new coil (just need to figure out which coil I need)

Any additional thoughts or input is appreciated before I just start throwing parts at it.
 
So I've done some more research and this is what I got. With the key in the run position I have 12 volts on the key switch lug heading to the ignition coil. I also have 12 volts on the other end of the resistance wire (which I can see is in place) so the resistance wire is faulty and not providing the correct voltage drop.

When there is no current flowing there will be no voltage drop.

Voltage = Current x Resistance

So when there's zero current through a resistor/resistance there's no voltage drop across it. The fact that there was 12 volts at both ends of the wire just proves that the points weren't closed.

All that you have proven is that there is continuity through the wire but not how much resistance it has.

Change your meter to ohms and measure directly from one end of the wire to the other with the key off. If it is correct then it should read around 1.5 ohms.

My guess is that it will read much higher than that, causing too much of a voltage drop when the current is flowing and therefore not enough juice to make a good strong spark.

I'm going to get a ballast resistor from the autoparts store instead of a new resistor wire because it's more readily available. I'll run a new wire from key to coil through the new resistor clean up the points the best I can and try it.

I think I'm also going to order a new key switch, distributor repair kit with new points and rotor, and a new coil (just need to figure out which coil I need)

Definitely don't start throwing money at other parts until you see what the proper ballast resistor does. The fact that the engine is firing when the key is in the run position means that the rest of the ignition circuit is in good shape.

Another thought just hit me. You didn't mention if this tractor is new to you and has had the problem since you got it or if it was working properly for some amount of time and the problem just started. If it's been that way since you got it then maybe the coil was replaced by a previous owner with one that's not supposed to have an external resistance and that's why it's not running when the resistance wire is dropping the voltage. Measure the resistance of the primary on th ecol itself (between the two small posts). If it requires an external resistance it should read about 1.5 ohms. If it 's not supposed to have an external resistance then it should measure at around 3.0 ohms.
 
(quoted from post at 05:29:01 05/23/19)
So I've done some more research and this is what I got. With the key in the run position I have 12 volts on the key switch lug heading to the ignition coil. I also have 12 volts on the other end of the resistance wire (which I can see is in place) so the resistance wire is faulty and not providing the correct voltage drop.

When there is no current flowing there will be no voltage drop.

Voltage = Current x Resistance

So when there's zero current through a resistor/resistance there's no voltage drop across it. The fact that there was 12 volts at both ends of the wire just proves that the points weren't closed.

All that you have proven is that there is continuity through the wire but not how much resistance it has.

Change your meter to ohms and measure directly from one end of the wire to the other with the key off. If it is correct then it should read around 1.5 ohms.

My guess is that it will read much higher than that, causing too much of a voltage drop when the current is flowing and therefore not enough juice to make a good strong spark.

I'm going to get a ballast resistor from the autoparts store instead of a new resistor wire because it's more readily available. I'll run a new wire from key to coil through the new resistor clean up the points the best I can and try it.

I think I'm also going to order a new key switch, distributor repair kit with new points and rotor, and a new coil (just need to figure out which coil I need)

Definitely don't start throwing money at other parts until you see what the proper ballast resistor does. The fact that the engine is firing when the key is in the run position means that the rest of the ignition circuit is in good shape.

Another thought just hit me. You didn't mention if this tractor is new to you and has had the problem since you got it or if it was working properly for some amount of time and the problem just started. If it's been that way since you got it then maybe the coil was replaced by a previous owner with one that's not supposed to have an external resistance and that's why it's not running when the resistance wire is dropping the voltage. Measure the resistance of the primary on th ecol itself (between the two small posts). If it requires an external resistance it should read about 1.5 ohms. If it 's not supposed to have an external resistance then it should measure at around 3.0 ohms.

Sean, awesome information! Where in Southeast PA are ya? I live near Hamburg if your close I'd love to buy ya a beer for the help...when I get it running.

I've had the tractor for 2 years now, I have a weird problem with the starter not engaging, rebuilt the hydraulic pump, and recently had the front apart to fix the stinger shaft. As I said in the OP this started 2 days after I test ran it post stinger shaft repair, however I think it's just a coincidence.

The coil looks original (still painted blue) and a the wire in question is brittle and cracked in many areas. So I'll get a ballast resister tonight and install with new wiring. When I bypassed the resistance wire and tried it, why did it overheat the 14 guage wire and still have the same symptoms?
 
I'm just outside of Pottstown, which is about 20 miles east of Reading. Not to be confused (but often is) with Pottsville where Yuengling is brewed, which I think a little closer to Hamburg.

I get out to Hamburg a few times a year to go to Cabela's.

I'm not sure why the 14 gauge wire got hot, but possibly because you left the key in the run position when the points were closed. Current will flow constantly through the wire if that happens and with no ballast resistor, and only the internal resistance of the coil you would have 8 to 10 amps going through there, maybe more depending on the condition of the coil.

As to the work on the front pump shaft being related... You could have disturbed some of the old wiring when you were performing that work.
 
Ok, update time. I stopped at Napa on the way home and bought a ballast resistor and a 6 volt ignition coil. I disconnected the switch to coil resistor wire and check ohms it read open. I got excited thinking problem solved. Installed new wire and resistor now reading 1.7 ohms end to end. Hooked it up and test, same issue no change.

Disconnected old coil and checked resistance across the terminals read 1.9 ohms, should be 1.5. Got excited again. New coil reads 1.5 ohms, installed, same issue.

It seems like something is stuck closed causing the run circuit to constantly pull current. Because if the switch is left in run it makes all wires and the new resistor very hot. I pulled the cover on the distributor to look at the points but I can not get the rotor out to remove the dust cover. It moves back and forth and up and down but will not come out.

I have a new switch assembly on the way just to rule that out. I'm now thinking distributor issues. Thoughts?
 
I took the distributor apart today, cleaned the points and replaced the ground wire from points to case and from points to coil. Reading from the the negative side of the coil to ground with the points closed I get 0 ohms.

Put the distributor back together and reset points and now have no spark. It won't even try to start. Going to pick up a condenser at Napa today, are they fairly universal?
 
I found that I had a wire grounded after cleaning and reinstalling the points. Got that fixed and replaced the switch and it finally works.

I think there was multiple problems involved but now everuthing is new. Gonna order a distributor rebuild kit and keep it on standby.

Thanks everyone for the help!!!!
 
(quoted from post at 14:09:32 05/27/19) I found that I had a wire grounded after cleaning and reinstalling the points. Got that fixed and replaced the switch and it finally works.

I think there was multiple problems involved but now everuthing is new. Gonna order a distributor rebuild kit and keep it on standby.

Thanks everyone for the help!!!!

Thanks for posting the final results. Its always annoying when people dont follow up with what fixed it.
 

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