71 ford 3000 blowing hyd line?

I have replaced the high pressure line with new line and fittings, then blew the top end of line, replaced the fitting again then blew the bottom end of line, replaced the fitting again. Now blew the top end of line again. This is making me physically sick. Any ideas?
 
That rubber compression nut was a poor
design and I've had problems there too.
I had that style on a 3000 once that
someone had screwed a fitting into the
pump body then flared the line.
It worked good, was easy to reconnect
and did not leak.
I haven't worked on one of those in
several years but decided then if I ever
had to mess with another one I would
bring the pump and line to a good
hydraulic shop and see if I could find a
fitting to convert it to a flare
connection.
One clue to maybe get you started:
The 3600s were the next series newer of
the 3000s. They have a gear pump instead
of the piston pump you have and use a
flare fitting there.
Maybe?? the fitting from the gear pump
would screw into the piston pump??
I do not know but maybe it's worth a
check.
If you do this and are successful please
make a post about it with brand and part
numbers of the fitting and flare nut.
Also pictures if you can.
This is a common problem on those so
adding the info to the knowledge base
here would help others in the future
with the same problem.
 
PS,
I would also make sure the clamps that clamp the hyd lines to the chassis of the tractor are both there and working as they should.
Vibration on that line is not your friend.
 
(quoted from post at 01:56:28 05/16/19) PS,
I would also make sure the clamps that clamp the hyd lines to the chassis of the tractor are both there and working as they should.
Vibration on that line is not your friend.

Thanks dog for you detailed response, so you think my trouble is poor designed fittings, I see in YT s hydraulic parts list a "Hydraulic Relief Valve" any knowledge of what that does or think it could be my problem? I might add every time I replaced the fitting the hydraulics worked smooth, fast and would lift my scrapper box several times before it blew.
 
Maybe this applys to your pressure
relief valve, maybe doesn't.
I had a hydraulic problem on a on
another 3000 that I couldn't figure out
and like you started to wonder if it
might be the PRV.
I called my hometown NH dealer who had a
very good old school parts man to order
a new one.
He did some checking then told me that
going all the way back to 1998 or so
when they first got their computer
system he had never sold one of those.
I said, "So my problem is not likely the
PRV?"
He said, "I doubt it. They never go
bad."
He was right. The problem was something
else.
He passed away about a year later.
Too bad.
He was the best.
 
The original compression nut design was bad enough, the new ones are even worse. At least the 'generic" ones are, it's been a while since I bought an OEM one. Take it to a hydraulic shop and see if they can put something together for you. It's not worth the head ache fighting those compression nuts.I rigged something up for mine that works, but it's so hillbilly I'd be embarrassed to show it. :D
 
Well here s the deal for those having this trouble. I searched the ford part # (C7NNH856C) for the compression nut that YT sells that was supposed to replace it and seen one Amazon. It was the same as the one YT sells but in the comments a guy posted this....

[b:56628d6c49]"I used this on my 1973 Ford 2000 high pressure hydraulic line. This product does not work as a replacement for the Ford part. It is missing a lock ring that bites into the hydraulic tube. Without the lock ring the tube will slip out of the nut under high pressure situations. I tried two of these with unsatisfactory results. After getting the right part from New Holland I could see right away why this part would never work. It relies on rubber to hold the hydraulic line in place verses steel" [/b:56628d6c49]

Here s the one that YT sells (also like the one on Amazon).. https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/C7NNH856C_Hydraulic-Pump-Compression-Nut_30992.htm?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4aXwk7qG4AIVBB-tBh1nBwPZEAQYAyABEgKcKPD_BwE see the copper insert that goes into the rubber?, there is two of them one goes in on each side of the rubber. The New Holland has a steel one on one side and a tapered steel washer (looks like a flange) on the other side that when tightened locks onto the tube. Other than that they are the same.

YT price $6.08 for one, New Holland s price $42.90 for one.. Smile
 
I did some searching, hard to believe so many aftermarket companies are selling this compression nut that [b:9e3d8fcd1f]Won't Work[/b:9e3d8fcd1f], save yourself some headaches and pay the 42.90 at New Holland.

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