rear crank seal and cork gasket on 192 / 201 3 cyl

marlin54

Member
I have a 1965 3 cylinder gas motor...I installed the new rear crankshaft seal .....its not a type that has a steel outer
edge..just all rubber...so there is nothing that keeps it from coming out as there is no C-clip or ring..no ridge ..no
nothing...enough pressure in block {which there should not be much if any } but it could force it out.....I checked in
manual..shows just the new chinese rubber seal and nothing else...so called dealer and they said there is a cork gasket that
is supposed to go between the plate that fits between the block and trans and the parts book does not show it for some
reason..so I gto home layed the cork gasket up to it but the hole in the gasket is bigger than the outside circumference of
the seal except for 4 inside tangs in the cork gasket that really would not hold it in in my opinion..so then I thought the
steel plate must be what holds it in ..held it up..no way..too big too...and the cork gasket is thick and if I put it on
over top of the gasket it will have be bend some ? wtf....really ..thats the fix? am i supposed to just put it on and
then the plate and not worry that I have to do it again some day soon ?..I thought about making a thin plate instead of the
thick cork myself..at least I would be able to sleep at nite as it has a loader and a 753 hoe on it so its a big deal to
have to do it over...has anyone had to do this before ... am I missing something here .hard to believe that is the fix by
ford....
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The cork gasket is in the parts book in the block and head section 06J01 item #32.
It serves as a secondary seal for where the block and rear main cap mate together, the tabs center it on the crank.
It doesn't do anything to help retain the rear seal.
The rear seal is the new rubber coated design that is being used by many mfg's to replace the older design's.
I've never had a rear seal push out, there's not pressure pushing against them.
I like to install them where their slightly recessed in the block rather than flush.
When installing the seal make sure the inside lip of the seal goes onto the crank without folding the lip over backwards.
I put a thin coat of RTV around the outside of the seal, seams to make it go in easier.
Make sure the flat side of the seal is facing the outside of the engine.
 
The rear seal isn't going anywhere. I've worked on more of those engines than I care to count, and have never seen one pushed out.

The cork gasket is secondary insurance against side seal leaks of the rear main bearing cap. The fact that the rear plate is bowed a little because of it is no big deal.
 
Thanks guys for the good advice.... Im pretty sure it didn't but cant sleep thinking it just might have ..so I will pull the
bottom half of main off to double check.....
 

Marlin, this is the way seals are these days. FRICTION. Not just in tractors, but in pretty much anything you work on, in any kind of housing, on any type of equipment.
 
after reading the replies ..DeStroke gave me alot of good advice including to make sure the inside lip did not get rolled
backwards and I can;t remember when I installed it to see that it was not folded backwards...so I want to check it out before
I put the pan back on...If I drop the bottom half of rear main block then I can take the seal back out and not destroy it
taking it out...I don't want to buy another ...cause it too far to go to to dealer to get another....Actually I can't remember
checking when I put it in..just trying to make sure its in right...If it the inside lip did get rolled back I dont know how
long it would last before it started to leak ...if its not really going to be a problem then I really dont want to go thru it
again..If i remember right the lips were really , really really close together...and its a tough to do it ..any thoughts?
 
(quoted from post at 10:04:59 05/13/19) after reading the replies ..DeStroke gave me alot of good advice including to make sure the inside lip did not get rolled
backwards and I can;t remember when I installed it to see that it was not folded backwards...so I want to check it out before
I put the pan back on...If I drop the bottom half of rear main block then I can take the seal back out and not destroy it
taking it out...I don't want to buy another ...cause it too far to go to to dealer to get another....Actually I can't remember
checking when I put it in..just trying to make sure its in right...If it the inside lip did get rolled back I dont know how
long it would last before it started to leak ...if its not really going to be a problem then I really dont want to go thru it
again..If i remember right the lips were really , really really close together...and its a tough to do it ..any thoughts?

My thought is that you should read the replies that you have gotten.
 

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