I have a Marvel Schebler TSX 813 carburetor on a 4000, 4 cyl

is there any other carburetors that will work on this tractor ? ....I'm looking at $60 for a rebuild kit, OR, a new TSX 813 carburetor for $350.00 +..............I just put a rebuild kit in the one I have but looking at the $60 kit, it has a lot more parts to it than the one I used, it was $20,..............

(quoted from post at 15:38:08 05/05/19) is there any other carburetors that will work on this tractor ? ....I'm looking at $60 for a rebuild kit, OR, a new TSX 813 carburetor for $350.00 +..............I just put a rebuild kit in the one I have but looking at the $60 kit, it has a lot more parts to it than the one I used, it was $20,..............

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he M/S carbs are so simple that 95+% of the time they need very few if any parts other than gaskets (gaskets because the are old/brittle & torn at disassembly). The problems are almost always related to dirt/foreign matter in the tiny passages. Kits contain no passages. Very careful cleaning & assembly ARE required. Sometimes shafts & bushings will make one run smoother at idle & low speeds (air leaks), but won't keep one from running. Did you run a small wire thru each and every connecting passage? Did you check the floats for binding as I suggested in your other posts? Did you remove the carb bowl (not sediment bowl) drain plug and measure flow to see that it flows enough to fill a pint jar in two minutes or less?

(quoted from post at 16:27:08 05/05/19)

(quoted from post at 15:38:08 05/05/19) is there any other carburetors that will work on this tractor ? ....I'm looking at $60 for a rebuild kit, OR, a new TSX 813 carburetor for $350.00 +..............I just put a rebuild kit in the one I have but looking at the $60 kit, it has a lot more parts to it than the one I used, it was $20,..............

Click to expand...

he M/S carbs are so simple that 95+% of the time they need very few if any parts other than gaskets (gaskets because the are old/brittle & torn at disassembly). The problems are almost always related to dirt/foreign matter in the tiny passages. Kits contain no passages. Very careful cleaning & assembly ARE required. Sometimes shafts & bushings will make one run smoother at idle & low speeds (air leaks), but won't keep one from running. Did you run a small wire thru each and every connecting passage? Did you check the floats for binding as I suggested in your other posts? Did you remove the carb bowl (not sediment bowl) drain plug and measure flow to see that it flows enough to fill a pint jar in two minutes or less?

Click to expand...

No passages, other than the main nozzle, in most cases for Fords.

My take is, if you've already spent $20 on the "basic" kit, and are
considering spending $60 on the full kit, or $350 + for a new,
aftermarket carb, why not ask for help rebuilding it or have it
rebuilt for you? A new one doesn't come tested and adjusted.
Simply slapped together at the factory. The rest is on you.

(quoted from post at 20:02:26 05/05/19)

(quoted from post at 16:27:08 05/05/19)

(quoted from post at 15:38:08 05/05/19) is there any other carburetors that will work on this tractor ? ....I'm looking at $60 for a rebuild kit, OR, a new TSX 813 carburetor for $350.00 +..............I just put a rebuild kit in the one I have but looking at the $60 kit, it has a lot more parts to it than the one I used, it was $20,..............

Click to expand...

he M/S carbs are so simple that 95+% of the time they need very few if any parts other than gaskets (gaskets because the are old/brittle & torn at disassembly). The problems are almost always related to dirt/foreign matter in the tiny passages. Kits contain no passages. Very careful cleaning & assembly ARE required. Sometimes shafts & bushings will make one run smoother at idle & low speeds (air leaks), but won't keep one from running. Did you run a small wire thru each and every connecting passage? Did you check the floats for binding as I suggested in your other posts? Did you remove the carb bowl (not sediment bowl) drain plug and measure flow to see that it flows enough to fill a pint jar in two minutes or less?

Click to expand...

No passages, other than the main nozzle, in most cases for Fords.

My take is, if you've already spent $20 on the "basic" kit, and are
considering spending $60 on the full kit, or $350 + for a new,
aftermarket carb, why not ask for help rebuilding it or have it
rebuilt for you? A new one doesn't come tested and adjusted.
Simply slapped together at the factory. The rest is on you.

Click to expand...

re read his initial post and had another though when I read, "replaced sediment bowl", and "rerouted new rubber gas line." This uses the hollow bolt and IF he installed the sediment bowl assy with line connection opposite to factory direction, then fuel can't reach the carb. Symptoms fit, but if he would get on with the asked for two minute flow test, the such would be uncovered.

I've been on our ranch for the past 44 years, there used to be a handfull of "old school" tractor guy's with shops within a mile or two, but today, the developers have pushed them out, looks like I'm gonna be that last "hanger on ".......I did take the carb off, again, after watching several you tube videos, and I can NOT hardly believe how many parts were / are missing off of what I've been running for the last 20 + years,.......#1 the venturi is gone, the "O" ring & gasket are gone from the power valve body, the felt gasket and air seal for the main nozzle are gone,.....an there's a couple other things missing,........so NOW, I'm REALLY thinking I'm gonna be time & money ahead to just bite the bullett an get a NEW carb an start anew,..............

(quoted from post at 00:12:56 05/06/19)
I've been on our ranch for the past 44 years, there used to be a handfull of "old school" tractor guy's with shops within a mile or two, but today, the developers have pushed them out, looks like I'm gonna be that last "hanger on ".......I did take the carb off, again, after watching several you tube videos, and I can NOT hardly believe how many parts were / are missing off of what I've been running for the last 20 + years,.......#1 the venturi is gone, the "O" ring & gasket are gone from the power valve body, the felt gasket and air seal for the main nozzle are gone,.....an there's a couple other things missing,........so NOW, I'm REALLY thinking I'm gonna be time & money ahead to just bite the bullett an get a NEW carb an start anew,..............

Click to expand...

eally? And you say it ran without a venturi? And you rebuilt it? WOW!

The more expensive rebuild kits usually have parts you don't need; e.g. throttle and choke shafts. If the tractor ran before you disassembled the carb, and now it doesn't, you didn't put it back together correctly. And I'm skeptical it ran without a venturi; maybe you're not recognizing the venturi for what it is. The venturi is a slightly conical brass tube about an inch and a half in diameter; it comes right out when you remove the bowl. But even with a missing venturi the tractor should start and run on choke, so it sounds like NO GAS is getting into the carburetor bowl.

Did you get any gas to run out when you removed the plug from the bottom of the bowl? If not, the problem almost has to be with the needle & seat valve or the float, since you confirmed that gas ran out when you loosened the sediment bowl bolt. (I'm assuming you didn't substitute a regular bolt for the original, which is hollow and cross-drilled so gas can run through it.) If you're uncertain whether gas is flowing through the needle and seat, you can mount the carb on the tractor with the bowl removed; gas should flow out the carb until you raise the float.

I would be hesitant to replace the carburetor with a new one; I believe the replacements are not made by M-S but are Chinese copies. If you're missing parts, you can probably find a used carb to cannibalize. Or you can replace the M-S with a Zenith carb, but I'd sure try to fix the one you've got.