3000 charing system not working

bcny

Member
In the fall I rewired the tractor, new instrument cluster, new switches, new battery, new wiring, new regulator. Only the battery cables,generator,lights and the safety switch at transmission were re-used. It all went together easy, I had no oops moments. Polarized the generator, at the generator with F wire disconnected. Started it up and was working great. About 14 volts as I remember.

The other day, with 5.6 hours on the new clock, I could see the gen light glowing slightly. Checked voltage while running, only 12.3. Re-polarized the generator, no improvement.

I did the motoring test on the generator. It spun not like a rocket, but maybe 500 rpm, similar to what I see in you-tube videos. Then I did the full output test, the voltage generated
from 6.6v at lowest idle I could get to 41 volts at full speed.
I only briefly let it get that high. Ground to F term on generator is 5 ohms. Voltage at the F terminal when it is re hooked up and running fast was 3.4 volts. And that seemed low to me and I suspect the regulator.
Anyone have any advice? I have a new $28 regulator on the way.
 
I assume that the 41 was seen without thee Arm/battery connection?
If yes, with all wires connected and running, jumper Field to ARM AND Arm to battery and watch battery voltage. If it comes up, the you will know that gen is OK and reg is problem. you may be able to clean reg contacts & make it work.
 
Yes the 41 volts was with no connections to the tractors wiring. And also, the 41 volts was polarity correct.

And I just did the test you suggested. The voltage went as high as 18.5 at full speed. I guess the battery sinks down the voltage, it didn't
get anywhere near that 41 volts. At low speed... I forget, but I thought it went to battery voltage (like 12.3).

I don't like this generation's spade connectors. They used to have ring connectors and screws in prior models. I my mind the push on type is prone to failure.
I mention that because new discovery was that the connector to the armature at the generator was a little loose. But I think it was still conducting.
I squeezed the push on connector with pliers that tightened it up. But then I pulled it and re-attached twice, it was getting looser and looser. The harness is a new Sparex.

If it weren't for the darn mechanical tach cable I would have converted to alternator.
 
I don't know if this is an answer for you, but last year I had a similar problem on my Ford 2000. New regulator installed about 6 months earlier, so I assumed the poor charging was not the fakult of the regulator. Wrong! To make a long story short, I was informed by the service dept. at NH that the regulator I bought at their own parts department was imported junk. They, believe it or not, order their regulators used in the service department from a Made in USA outfit. They told me that they cost twice as much, buy the service department does not have the time to spend on new, faulty regulators. Problem solved with a new, Made in USA regulator.
 
Tim, Did the USA regulator have brand name or model number. How could I get a hold of one.

I don't really want to harp on the poor quality of imported parts, at least they are making parts.
But- the loose push on connector has me worried. Apparently the connector is too soft, not enough spring action to get a good bite.
The ignition and light switch were dirt cheap, and they both feel like they have dirt in them. The instrument cluster is an amazing buy at $130,
but the RPM reading is off by 15%. The fuel gauge has no "dampening", jumps around with every bump in the field.
The temperature sender I had was testing bad on the ohms at hot water test. The NH dealer didn't have one, and I asked him to look up when they last
sold one. It was 4 years ago. That is strange, EVERY online vendor has that part, and lots of posts about them.

Vendor of the regulator thinks they have a 5% return rate. That seems pretty low, considering how regulators get tortured through mis-wiring, wrong polarizing...
In my case it did work correct initially and for 5 hours, then problem. I don't know why they agreed to send me a new one, I thought no returns on electrical parts was the norm.

Thank you about the tip of a domestic regulator. Hey, when the original regulator says Lucas on it, you know you are in for trying times. How quaint, Lucas quality would be considered an upgrade today.
 
Replacement regulator came in broken. Plastic case has a tab cracked. And scratches, maybe they sent me someone else's return?
2nd replacement looks brand new, I installed and it is making voltage. Started out at 15.9, now down to 14.6 after 25 minutes running.
I was getting regulator swaps down to a science.

So, first regulator lasted 5.6 hours, 2nd DOA, third just installed. I hope I get more than 5 hours use.
I was getting regulator swaps down to a science.
If this one craps out I will get the USA made regulator. Or go to alternator.
 
(quoted from post at 15:38:41 05/15/19) Replacement regulator came in broken. Plastic case has a tab cracked. And scratches, maybe they sent me someone else's return?
2nd replacement looks brand new, I installed and it is making voltage. Started out at 15.9, now down to 14.6 after 25 minutes running.
I was getting regulator swaps down to a science.

So, first regulator lasted 5.6 hours, 2nd DOA, third just installed. I hope I get more than 5 hours use.
I was getting regulator swaps down to a science.
If this one craps out I will get the USA made regulator. Or go to alternator.
ith some luck, your 'charing' system will never work as well as on this one! :twisted:
ZA3yhO6.jpg
 



lots of ford replacement regulators are made in india, by real indians... and sadly not very well. I probably see a 30% failure rate or higher.
 

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