Key ignition switch keeps failing on 801.

I've replaced the key ignitions switch three times in the past six months. I've traced the wiring and it all seems to be going to the correct places and is in good shape, not cuts or bare to ground. When I pull the old switch, it will seem to pass the on/off test with the multimeter, and it ohms out on and off. It failed again today, and I replaced it with a toggle switch. No time to make an order for parts... It fired up and I was able to move it out of the way and to the normal parking spot. After shutting down, I tried to restart it. Nothing... At least I got it out of the machine shed doorway, it had everything blocked...

With both parts, key switch and toggle switch, I have voltage through the bus bar and the hot side of the switch, when the switch is in the off position. When I turn the switch on, no voltage at either location. Thinking its shorted out again... Any ideas? I have a new starter solenoid I can install, but I don't think that's it, and the gnats are active...
Russ, in Kansas.
 
"When I turn the switch on, no voltage at either location."

I would GUESS there's a poor connection somewhere after the battery and before the switch, and when you finagle the wiring around to replace the switch, the connection makes contact again, for a while.

It is HIGHLY unlikely that many switches have "shorted out" (as you wrote).
 

If you do go after the switch get a good'N...



Napa KS6041

Most all of the 2 wire switched you get from TISCO etc I have sold failed they are junk...

My next suggestion would be to pitch the ohm meter you need to load the circuit to check it a ohm meter will not do-dat...
 
As previously stated by others, the aftermarket Ford tractor ignition switches sold just about anywhere are of very poor quality.

The 1951 8N that I sold last fall had an automotive ignition switch originally intended for a 1950s vintage automobile when it arrived here in 1974. It still functioned fine when I sold the tractor last fall.

I've also had good luck with the "restoration quality" switches from DC.

Dean
 
A toggle switch is a great replacement! After going through several switch failures I put in a standard toggle and have had no problems ever since.
 
Do you have headlights routed through the switch? The OEM keyswitch is not designed for anymore current that just the ignition. Headlights and the starter should NOT pass through the keyswitch. Also as said below the aftermarket switches tend to be of low quality.

Dell used to recommend a 20A marine grade toggle switch as a replacement.

Cliff(VA) now NC

PS The ignition is just the power that feeds the coil/points/sparkplugs. Nothing else.
 

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