801 Hydraulic Tube Replacement

baydog1

Member
Just bought a 801 Powermaster 841 series and the rear lift arms would not work. Not knowing the last time the fluids were changed I drained the rear diff, the hyd., and the tranny. Filled all levels to the top
of the sight plugs until it ran out the installed the plugs.Bled the hyd. pump and the hydraulics worked great for about 15 minutes of run time then oil started running out of the gear shift boot.. A lot. I
removed the sight level plug for the tranny and it was way over full and the hydraulic level did not touch the stick. Is this a pretty good sign that the hyd. tube is bad? Has anyone changed one before? Just
wandering how hard it is to replace the tube if thats what my problem is. Thanks for your time and help
Scotty
 
I've never replaced the tubes, but while you're waiting for someone who has below is what the Ford Service Manual says. Four steps for both tubes, but first step "Remove the transmission from the tractor" might take a while.
<img src = https://i.postimg.cc/HsNg8QwX/Hydraulic-Tube-RR.jpg>
 

Aren't there threads on here of guys pulling these tubes by removing the hydraulic manifold, threading the front end of the old tube and using a bolt on a slip hammer puller?

I don't believe any kind of a split of this tractor is necessary to get the job done.
 
(quoted from post at 15:35:28 05/03/19)
Aren't there threads on here of guys pulling these tubes by removing the hydraulic manifold, threading the front end of the old tube and using a bolt on a slip hammer puller?

I don't believe any kind of a split of this tractor is necessary to get the job done.
ow that you have jogged my memory, I do believe I have read of that method.
 
Wow thanks guys for all the good info but it's a little bit of a bummer to have to split the tractor. But this is what you come across lots of time when buying a 50 year old tractor. JMOR I will defiantly give it a try with the ole slide hammer and bolt trick and will let you guys know how it works out.. Now I'm wandering if these tubes are still available and can buy one or do if have to repair or make one. Thanks everyone for you're help! Going out in the shop right now and going to get started on it.
Scotty
 
You don't need to split the tractor. That's a waste of time.

It's a 2 to 3 hour job if you take your time. Pull the manifold. Using a 7/16 tap thread the pressure tube as deep as you can.(I used fine thread) Screw in a piece of threaded rod as far as you can. Slip a pipe nipple on just big enough for the tube to slide through. Put a couple heavy washers on and a nut. When you tighten the nut the tube will pull through the nipple. After it moves half an inch it will come the rest of the way with your fingers. Just wiggle the new one in till you get it in the last boss and tap it home. I used a piece of aluminum. Draining and refilling the oil takes longer than changing the tube.

Walt's sells the tube. If you have a lathe it isn't that difficult to turn & McMaster has the tubing cheap.
 
I just did this on my Select O Speed. The line was bent up in the middle so there was no way it was coming out without cutting it in the middle.
I already had the tractor split and the transmission gutted so it was no big deal. However, I would not attempt it without being able to take a precise measurement of the hole diameters. I machined a mandrel to expand the 1/2" tube to .513" on the front end.
I machined the tube to .5055" on the front and .4835" on the back. Put some loctite on the ends and drove it home.

https://www.mcmaster.com/9220k461

45741288544_bee50329bd_z.jpg
 
I Want to thank Andy Wickiser, JMOR, Larry NCKS, M-MAN, Hobo,NC, catalina0029 for taking the time to answer my questions about removing the High Pressure Hydraulic tube that runs from the front of the bell housing after removing the Hyd. manifold towards the rear of the tractor to Hyd. Sump area. So have I got the tube out yet??? NOPE!!! But I have had some great info to help me along.. Not quite ready to split the tractor yet but ain't scared to split it.. BUT hoping I don't have to split the tractor . Took the Manifold off and used a 7/16 tap course thread to cut threads into the tube until I felt like the tap was twisting... Which wasn't much more than one inch. used a spacer and a bolt to try to pull the tube but the threads felt like they were starting to pull out. Using a good Snap-on tap. Making sure I take my time and spray lube up in the the tube as I tapped the threads, Anyone got a good guess on how far I should be able to cut thread up in the tube from the front side to be able to draw the tube out? I'm asking because once the tap starts to bite in and cutting threads it has no room to expand from where the steel tube sticks out of the front of the bell housing to where it goes into the cast bell housing where the cast bell housing ain't gonna swell any to cut threads into. What worries me is if i break that tap off. Who ever has done this before and has used a threaded rod can you give me a guess how far I need to tap into the tube to get the tube to start to move out?? Seems to me I need to go 2 inches instead of ! inch but thats gets harder when I get up into the cast ell housing..

Thanks
Scotty
 
I ran the tap in till all I had left was the end to turn it with. When the tap gets tight back off and break the chips. Then cut a little more. It will go all the way like that.

I was afraid of the threads pulling is why I used fine thread.

Do make sure the tube is centered in the nipple.
 
Thanks MAN-M. I didn't tap inside the pipe no where near that far. I'll give it another try. I need to find a square socket to fit the end of the tap. Don't really have the room to use the tap wrench so I think I was using a 3/8" wrench trying to turn the tap. If i had a socket to fit the end of the tap could get more leverage and work the tap back and fourth better
Thanks
Scotty
 
M-MAN Wanted to show you the difference between last night and the amount of thread I tapped and tried to pull with then after talking to you last night the amount of threaded I'm going to pull with tomorrow night. Took my time and tapped the threads until I felt like the tap just didn't want to go in any more then backed it out about a turn or or two, then shot the air hose up in there and give it a shot of lube and backed it out about a full 2 or 3 turn, blow the air and lube and go again. I went from pulling on about 1" of thread to the whole length of the tap which is about 3 or 4 inches?? I will be pulling on that tube tomorrow night and let ya know how it goes. Thanks for the help. I tried to attach some pictures so you and everybody else that has this problem see how far you really need to go to get a good bite on this hateful tube. Will let you know how it turns out. Thanks
Scotty
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I do not sea a reason to bury the tap that far... The length of the threads on the tap plus a 1/4" would have been a gracious plenty...
 
Hobo, NC and I hope you're right and you're probably right. My thought was you don't get but a couple of chances at this then you've pulled
all the threads out that you can cut, plus it's a tube that needs to be replaced anyway so the more thread I can get up into the pipe, the
more bite I can get to make it give it up. I did this because my only next step is splitting the tractor and I will if I have too but if I
can replace this tube without splitting it I'm gonna take a little extra time and effort and at least try. Believe me I understand what
you're saying but I want my last chance to count. My thought was the more thread I could get in the tube the more strength I would have
pulling the tube .. I will defiantly let you know because my next step is splitting it and driving the tube out. I got 8 to 10 hours of
work a day then come home to this .. believe me I want to do it the best and quickest way I can but just never been down this path before
so I'm trying to to do it as fast as I can with the equipment I have. If this doesn't work I will let you know not to do it this way cause
really it would be a waist of time but if it does work I'll let you know too. Because the next step is splitting it and with the time I've
spent tapping it I may have had it split by now but we'll see. I really think I got enough bite now that I should be able to draw that tube
out of there but we'll see and I'll let you know.. Thanks Hobo, NC
Scotty
 
That's deep! My tap isn't that long. Those threads won't pull out. Just make sure the tube isn't hitting the nipple. It will be tight as can be & give all at once. Good luck.
 
WOW!!! It really does work... Very happy camper right now.. After taking my time tapping about 3 inches of threads inside the pressure tube, finding just the right spacer, once I started drawing down on the nut on the threaded rod it got good and tight it let out 1 little pop and I wiggled and pulled the tube the rest the way out. It looks like its pressed in about a 1 inch spot and thats it.. Could not of done it without all you guys help. I was getting very close to throwing in the towel. So whoever see's this post and has never done this job before ...Listen to these guys....It ain't they're first day on the job!! Thanks again to everyone!!!
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Hard to believe how long it took to take it apart and how short of time it took to put it back together... Don't know about everyone else but usually it's the the other way around... Rip it apart and carefully put it back together seems to always take longer..
 

I hand nuttin to loose if it did not work the transmission was coming out... No stuff it with a undersized tube and fill it with JB weld...

In my case the transmission did come out because there was nuttin wrong with the tube that came out of it... It was a good thang the bearings, seals and shift parts were worn out... Another happy customer tho with less money :)
 
Well my best guess would be what you want to hear...Right directly in the hydraulic sump that's why I used 5 gallon of diesel fuel to flush
it out the hyd sump. It's a 1960 tractor do you really think this is going to be the first metal shavings that has been passed through the
hyd. pump??
 

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