Engine trouble- rolling pop start question

nhpioneers

New User
We have a 4610 Ford tractor and the engine is not running. We have tried many things- the starter is fine, we just got it back from the shop from getting hydraulics replaces and drove it 3/4 miles and then stalled it and let it roll back. Now it won't start. Have been told it is the engine but I don't see how it could possibly be this.
So, if we were to let it roll down the hill and try to pop start it could that damage the crank shaft if it is seized?
 
No. We had a mechanic that said that the engine won't turn. He used a socket wrench. I posted a different question about it on April 29th explaining more but my husband wants to
make sure that we don't damage the engine if we try to pop start it- if the engine is seized. Would it do any further damage?
 

Pop starting one not knowing why it's locked can be bad.
Have you tried turning the crank yourself with a wrench?
You've been asked a number of questions on the other thread but haven't answered them.
 
(quoted from post at 18:14:27 05/01/19)
You've been asked a number of questions on the other thread but haven't answered them.

The reason I asked about your hydraulic pump is I believe you have an engine mounted pump and if the shop left a rag in the block when they changed the pump and that rag ended up in your oil pump pick up screen, maybe you do have a seized engine, in which case you should be developing an argument to ask the shop to pay for a new engine. Just another theory to prove or disprove as you move through all that's possible on your way to the source of the problem. Your problem is extremely odd/uncommon unless the cause is lack of lube or coolant.
 
(quoted from post at 07:42:17 05/02/19) if the engine is seized, find out why. could be hydraulic lock.

On your last post, after a few people asked what was done at the shop, you mentioned that they changed the hydraulic pump and an injector.

Look at those two aspects of the engine first.

Make sure that your hydraulic system isn't charged or locked or somehow preventing the engine from turning. Some people have wondered if a rag was left in the hydraulic pump to block interface.

Also, if something was botched with the injector pump, you could have a cylinder "hydrolocked" with a bunch of unburned diesel resting on top of the piston and no way to get out.

If you roll or pop start the tractor in that condition, you run the risk of bending the connecting rod in that cylinder; which would equal a major engine overhaul.

If you loosen the injectors from the cylinders, you can give this unspent diesel a path out of the engine, which would allow it to turn over.

This thing is right from the shop. Get a mechanic from the shop to come out and ensure beyond the shadow of a doubt that their work isn't the issue. Have them come out and pull the hydraulic pump and the injectors before trying to turn the engine over any more, especially by forcible means like tow starting, pop starting, etc.

It seems as though they should do this for you as a way of standing by their work.
 
There is no way I would try to pull start a tractor if you cannot turn over with wrench, you will break something.
 
The mechanic from the shop that fixed the hydraulics came up and tried turning the engine and said it won't turn.
 
(quoted from post at 05:42:12 05/03/19) The mechanic from the shop that fixed the hydraulics came up and tried turning the engine and said it won't turn.

Well, the mechanic from the shop must be a genius.

#sarcasm alert
You already knew that the engine wouldn't turn.

It's the layman's job to figure out that the engine won't turn. A "mechanic" figures out why.

I still stand by the statement that they should at least give you the benefit of performing their due diligence to ensure that their work had nothing to do with what happened.
 

But, I understand that you can't bleed a stone. If they aren't offering to help, you're left to your own devices.

So... Did you...

Check the coolant level?

Check the oil level?

Inspect for any evidence that the hydraulics are pressurized?...such as...if you put the three point hitch lever in the down position, will the three point hitch arms droop, especially if somebody puts their body weight on them?

Inspect for hyper-pressurized hydraulic remotes... for instance, can you plug in a hydraulic cylinder to all of your remote ports? Do any of them act pressurized?

Did you put a pan or basin under the oil pan drain and crack the drain plug just a little and turn it out to see if water/coolant drips out? If you don't see any at first, keep loosening slowly, is oil the first thing that comes out? (water/coolant is heavier than oil and it will settle to the bottom it's also thinner than oil and will come out before the oil is able to squeeze out). If you have coolant in your oil, that's a sure sign that you have big, big engine problems.

Are you or a friend able to loosen the diesel injectors from the cylinders enough to let out anything that might be trapped... and then try to turn the engine over?

If your mechanic won't help you, maybe these are the things that you can try to get some answers.
 
We will check these things and see how it goes. I am just hoping it is something simple. Thanks so much for the suggestions.
 

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