Ford 4000 3 Cyl Diesel Problems

chadepperson

New User
Have a issue with my 4000 diesel, tractor has all way started and ran with no problems, since I have owned it. Haven't really done anything major to it, besides pull the injection pump and have umbrella seals put in it. Tractor really isn't used very hard, most of the time I just start it up let her run 20 to 30 min and shut her down, once in a while I'll put the blade on and drag some snow or rock. I just finished up my 30 x 40 barn, and was using it to level some rock, used the tractor a good 3 or 4 hours without any issues. My problem started today, couldn't get the tractor to fire up, and its 70 degree weather, then I noticed it was pushing the oil out of the intake. So i took apart the oil bath air cleaner, and had the wife crank it, and its pushing air out of the intake. So I get it pulled in the shop thinking it dropped an intake valve, pull off the valve cover don't see and broken springs and all the valve seem to be moving. Any ideas where to go next, I'm assuming that the head will need pulled and inspect the valves, and look at the cylinder walls while its off. Should I attempt to do this job myself or try and find a mechanic that will mess with a 54 year old tractor.

thanks
 
Pulling the head seems a stretch to me.
If it was running fine I doubt you dropped a valve just sitting there.
I would adjust the valves first.
Then I would check your fuel system.
Bleed the pump, etc.
How hard were you running it?
If just puttering along it could just be wet stacking. That combined with a tight valve could make it blow a bit of slobber out the intake.
 

All it needs is some work. The "oil" out the breather is probably foam of water mixed with oil. It is better for it to just sit than to idle for 20-30 mins. Even blading snow and stone will not bring it up to the higher end of the operating range like it needs to to drive moisture out of the crankcase. Does your temp gauge work? Check your transmission and hydraulic oil, you will probably find the oil in those cases to be milky from condensation.
 
First off, three cylinder pumps don't use umbrella seals, four cylinder pumps do. Question, did you see any exhaust smoke during the starting attempt? If not, then injection pump is not delivering fuel. Also, if it's the four cylinder the starter cranking speed is critical for engine to start. My neighbor's 861 diesel won't start when the starter bushings get dry after awhile, even though it SOUNDS like it's cranking fast enough. Taking the starter apart for cleaning and bushing lube gets his going again. Also check all the rocker arm valve clearance, any EXHAUST rockers broken or extremely loose WILL push air back out the intake. Broken rocker arm will cause a popping sound at the intake as exhaust that should have gone out the exhaust valve will be trapped, then pop back when the intake does open. Other worse cause, severely worn camshaft lobes will do it too as valves won't open correctly.
 
(quoted from post at 12:29:05 04/29/19) Pulling the head seems a stretch to me.
If it was running fine I doubt you dropped a valve just sitting there.
I would adjust the valves first.
Then I would check your fuel system.
Bleed the pump, etc.
How hard were you running it?
If just puttering along it could just be wet stacking. That combined with a tight valve could make it blow a bit of slobber out the intake.

I will try, bleeding the fuel system, it didn't run out,
Around 1800 to 2000
I also wonder if it had some carbon build up from all the idling it usually dones, broke lose from it actually being worked, and stuck under a intake valve? Will try the valve adjustment
 

I would agree, but it wasn't blowing anything out while running. It started blow, when I went to start it again. To me it acts like it's down on compression, because of the blowing out of the intake & not starting.
 

You are probably correct on the seals, I didn't rebuild it. Tractor was leaking diesel in the oil, and man off this forum rebuilt it for me, I thought it was the umbrella, but it's also been 5 or 6 years and I'm no expert on it. But it is definitely a 3cyl not a 4cyl. I'm going to attempt to adjust those valves, I have a manual , but never adjusted the valve, hopefully it will work out, thanks
 

Although it's possible I've never had the front seal on a CAV inj pump leak fuel into the engine.
Can you post a photo of the tractor?
Just to make sure what model you have, where is the air filter located?
 
(quoted from post at 14:39:54 04/29/19)
Although it's possible I've never had the front seal on a CAV inj pump leak fuel into the engine.
Can you post a photo of the tractor?
Just to make sure what model you have, where is the air filter located?

Injection pump
mvphoto35319.jpg
 
Bleed the fuel system adjusted the valves still can't get her to start. Took a couple of videos it almost sounds like to me that the intake is still hanging open in the exhaust?

Watch "Ford 4000 3 cyl diesel(1)" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/P4bWz_Dg-0g

Watch "Ford 4000 3 cyl diesel(2)" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/7i7CU9Wb_KY
 
I thought I responded to this earlier today. My '65 3000 has the oil bath air filter located where yours is. There are full marks on the side of it or that disc in the bottom of that concave insert indicating the correct oil level and it uses the same oil as the engine.

I put 188* stats in my tractors so that in the winter they come up to temp fast and I usually put a piece of corrugated box in front of the radiator to block the air. No doubt you are all carboned/condensationed up.

No doubt you dislodged some of that crud with your current run in which the tractor hasn't seen for awhile. You can test for a piece of carbon stuck in a valve seat by checking the tappets. The one with the crud will have a real sloppy fit of the feeler gauge as compared to the other intakes.

The engine will start (at a high throttle setting) and run on 2 cyl if one is down due to loose feed line to injector like when you bleed them or having a valve stuck open. If it's not starting and did start to make your run then maybe you got into some bad fuel, or your fuel filter is clogged....when is the last time you changed it. You could crack a pipe at an injector and roll it over and see if you get fuel leaking out. If not, chase your fuel.

I think you have to get it running first, then put some snake oil in the fuel and crankcase (Seafoam for one like a 16 oz can in each) and get that crud loosened up with the engine running 1200 rpm area my guess. Let it sit there and cook. It may clean up and if so, drain the fuel and oil, put in and bleed a new fuel filter and new oil filter and oil and hook it to something and get it hot for an hour. Oil should be dirty again, and change it and the filter.

You are there with it and I'm just blue skying, but with what you said, that's what I'd do if it were mine.
 

I've cranked on her for a while today, just doesn't want to fire, tried some wd-40 for starting fluid, but don't think it has the propellant it used to. May try readjusting the valves, set the intake at .015 and the exhaust at .018 last night. If I could get it to fire I would seafoam the crap out of it. I may try some new filters and fuel, and reblead the filters, pump, and crack open each injector. I really don't want pull the dang head, but running out of ideas, thanks for the input
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top