63 Ford 4000 carburetor question.

13fox2P · Mar 26, 2019

Hello,new member here.
I have a 63 4000 4cyl gas. Last fall I parked it for the winter and this last week I fired it back up and it was running like it was low on fuel.Added fuel but it still was running rough.Then it wouldn't start. I thought it might be a coil issue so I replaced that,didn't help.I am getting decent spark and the cap is not corroded or anything.So I figured it must be carb related.I pulled the carb and cleaned it very well and put a basic kit in it.I set the the 2 adj screws to 1-1/2 turns from bottomed.It will fire but only run for a few seconds and dies and choking doesn't seem to help.Tried turning in the idle 1/4 turn at a time with not much of any difference.When i put the new float needle/jet in, I adjusted it to 1/4 inch above the gasket per instructions.I have noticed the gasket at the bowel is wet with fuel on the outside of carb.Is it possible that by adjusting the float from how it sat originally ,it is flooding? No fuel is coming out of the intake of carb.

showcrop · Mar 27, 2019

It is not easy to tell from your descriptions, but anyway the float valve wants to be set so that it closes when the top of the float is 1/4 inch BELOW the gasket. The wet gasket confirms this. The initial screw settings are usually 1.5 turns for the air screw which is the one at the top of the carb and 2.5 for the main jet which is the one on the bottom. Once you have it running good you set the small screw for highest RPMs at idle. then reset your idle. Don't worry about the main jet adjustment because you will not likely ever need to get max power out of it.

13fox2P · Mar 27, 2019

Yes, The float is adjusted 1/4 inch below gasket.I had it upside down as I made the measurement,that's why I had written "above the gasket" Thanks. Any other thoughts would be appreciated.

13fox2P · Mar 27, 2019

This morning when I went to work on the 4000 the carb was flooded.I had left the shutoff just barely open by mistake.I took the carb off and took it apart and everything is free and the float needle looks perfect and doesn't stick at all. Still wondering if the float needs to be as it was originally (not sitting level 1/4 " below gasket ??

Andy Wickiser · Mar 27, 2019

I just posted this picture from the service manual a few days ago,
might be of interest. Are you sure you have good fuel flow from the
tank? That can cause starvation. If you squirt a puff of starting
fluid into the carb's intake will it fire? (confirming lack of fuel
is the probable cause). Too bad you don't have a spare carb to sub
in to see if symptoms change.

<img src =https://i.postimg.cc/0Q521VtT/Ford-MS-Float-Adjust.jpg>

showcrop · Mar 27, 2019

I don't know what you mean by "running like it is running out of fuel." My experience is that they run out--they quit. No change.

13fox2P · Mar 27, 2019

It will run 400-800-400-800 rpm. Rolling up and down.It will run for 8-10 seconds and dies.If i increase the throttle as its running it still does the roll just at a higher rpm. I changed the plugs and started it a few times and then pulled a plug and it is damp but not wet.I thought I read that rolling is a rich condition.If i lean the idle (top screw) to much it won't start at all.I hope that all makes sense.

13fox2P · Mar 27, 2019

The low on fuel statement i made was a sputter/rough running situation like it was getting air in the fuel line.

JMOR · Mar 27, 2019

(quoted from post at 14:27:16 03/27/19) The low on fuel statement i made was a sputter/rough running situation like it was getting air in the fuel line.

emove carb bowl drain plug and see if flow is adequate to fill PINT BOTTLE IN 2 MINUTES OR LESS.

13fox2P · Mar 27, 2019

I did this earlier today and the flow is really good.

13fox2P · Mar 27, 2019

I let it run out for about 20 seconds and it didn't slow down at all.

JMOR · Mar 27, 2019

(quoted from post at 14:51:17 03/27/19) I let it run out for about 20 seconds and it didn't slow down at all.

then it does not look like a problem of insufficient fuel flow into the carb bowl, does it?

13fox2P · Mar 27, 2019

Not from what I am seeing.I have never had to mess with the carb since I got it 10 odd years ago.There was never any sign of gas leaking at the bowel gasket and that gasket was in sad shape.Now there is and that's why I am thinking there is something going on with the float adjustment.It ran with the float in a downward position since I bought it.I guess I will try and position the float like it was and see.

showcrop · Mar 27, 2019

(quoted from post at 11:21:23 03/27/19) It will run 400-800-400-800 rpm. Rolling up and down.It will run for 8-10 seconds and dies.If i increase the throttle as its running it still does the roll just at a higher rpm. I changed the plugs and started it a few times and then pulled a plug and it is damp but not wet.I thought I read that rolling is a rich condition.If i lean the idle (top screw) to much it won't start at all.I hope that all makes sense.

13 fox, according to your owners manual your 4000 is supposed to idle with a "rolling idle".

13fox2P · Mar 27, 2019

I would be tickled if it ran with a roll,as it doesn't run more than 10 seconds at a time as it is.I have an owners manual,can you tell me the page number please.I looked but haven't found that.It has always ran very smooth at idle for as long as I have had it.

RobCons · Mar 27, 2019

Fox try comparing your linkages to a picture in the manual to make sure they are connected correctly.

13fox2P · Mar 28, 2019

Choke linkage is operating the choke and throttle is operating throttle.

JMOR · Mar 28, 2019

10 seconds isn't likely a fuel problem. Turn off the fuel valve and start those tractors and they will run for over a minute on just the fuel in the carb bowl.

13fox2P · Mar 28, 2019

That is a good point. Do you think timing could make it run with that roll ?

13fox2P · Mar 28, 2019

Or possibly a vacuum issue?

JMOR · Mar 28, 2019

(quoted from post at 11:28:10 03/28/19) That is a good point. Do you think timing could make it run with that roll ?

0 seconds run time seems to me to wholly overshadow a 'roll'.

13fox2P · Mar 28, 2019

True,so it seems to me if it was timing or vacuum it would at least continue to run more than a short time consistently and just run crappy.

JMOR · Mar 28, 2019

(quoted from post at 11:38:32 03/28/19) True,so it seems to me if it was timing or vacuum it would at least continue to run more than a short time consistently and just run crappy.

hat would be my thinking.

JMOR · Mar 28, 2019

Another thought. You said, "I pulled the carb and cleaned it very well...". Very well means different things to different people. Perhaps bowl has adequate fuel, but it stops there, as in some 0.025 inch passage is clogged with seed, insect parts, etc. Did you run a wire through 'every' passage in both halves of that carb? Thinking that as it sits awhile (aided by choke perhaps) enough gas seeps past an obstruction to start but not enough to sustain run.

13fox2P · Mar 28, 2019

I did not use any wire,just air compressor and blow gun.I will take it apart again and do that.I thought it was good and cleaned but ...... Thanks.

JMOR · Mar 28, 2019

(quoted from post at 13:41:29 03/28/19) I did not use any wire,just air compressor and blow gun.I will take it apart again and do that.I thought it was good and cleaned but ...... Thanks.

ours will be similar.

13fox2P · Mar 28, 2019

I did use spray carb cleaner but not dip.Forgot to mention that.Thanks for the diagram also!!

13fox2P · Mar 28, 2019

Carb was clean through every port.Good flow with carb cleaner shot through all. So now I am wondering (and didn't think to mention 12 volt conversion) if it's possibly a intermittent spark issue because of ballast resistor or coil ? I'm going out to check for sustained spark over time.

13fox2P · Mar 28, 2019

Ok just checked spark over a 6 or so seconds time.The spark is nice at first and gets less over that span of time,until it's barely visible at 6 seconds of cranking.Note-the new coil says no external ballast resistor needed and I has one that came with the conv.kit.Is that ballast resistor not needed now and maybe that accounts for the spark decrease ?

JMOR · Mar 28, 2019

(quoted from post at 15:56:25 03/28/19) Ok just checked spark over a 6 or so seconds time.The spark is nice at first and gets less over that span of time,until it's barely visible at 6 seconds of cranking.Note-the new coil says no external ballast resistor needed and I has one that came with the conv.kit.Is that ballast resistor not needed now and maybe that accounts for the spark decrease ?

ump the resistor.

13fox2P · Mar 29, 2019

Ok,after 4 days of pouring over the 4000 and scratching my head bald,I finally found the problem.It was a failing condenser.I found a post on here about weak spark and Bruce (VA) had some great suggestions on the progression of things to check.Thanks to everyone here for the help!!

13fox2P · Mar 29, 2019

Thank you JMOR also!!!!

63 Ford 4000 carburetor question.

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