1970 Ford 3500 Industrial Tractor

I apologize in advance if the subject is covered in another thread somewhere. Seriously searched for it but could not find the information I need.

I bought this tractor about a year ago and would like to get it back in good running condition again. The engine is a diesel and starts and runs fine. The problem I am having is with the 3 point hitch position and draft control not working properly.

The position control will not hold it's place. After a certain point it drops loosely all the way to the lowest position.

I pulled the cover and removed it. Drained the oil and visually inspected the inside. Found the exhaust filter broken off and laying in the bottom next to the intake filter.

With the unit on a table I tried adjusting draft and position levers as instructed in the FSM I bought. Problem is the pictures are so bad I cannot tell for sure where they are measuring the specified distances for adjustment from.

I did what I thought they wanted and reassembled everything and filled it with new hydraulic oil but now my hitch will only lift about 1" off the ground. Definitely did something wrong but without a good manual I am just guessing.

So my question after all of this is, does anyone know where I can get proper instructions and good pictures for servicing my tractor?

By the way, it also corrects position about 20 times a minute which is way too often according to the manual I have.

I can rebuild a car engine but working on tractor's and hydraulic systems is all new to me.

Pics in the factory service manuals are decent but some instructions are a little vague.
I don't have a I-T manual so don't know the quality of their pics.

I repaired a lift for a neighbor last year that would only raise a inch or to, when reinstalling the lift top he unintentionally raised the rocker arms causing the dog bone to drop out of the piston.
The piston would contact the dog bone enough at the end of the pistons stroke to raise the lift a inch or so.
Sounds like the pistons o-ring is leaking, did you remove the piston from it's bore and replace the o-ring.
Another think to check when you have the life top off is the cam follower pin for wear.

Thanks for getting back to me.
I did not remove the piston but sounds like I need to.

I'm not sure what you are referring to as the dog bone? Is that the pushrod for the piston?

I forgot to mention in my first post that I found a roll pin just laying there. Didn't see it in any of the pictures.

The manual you mention with decent pictures can you direct me to it?

Yes the push rod is referred to as the dog bone, if one lifts up on the arms while installing the lift top the push rod can drop out of the piston cup and hang down in the housing.
There are roll pins in the lift but it's been a while since I've had one apart to remember where they go.
The manuals I have are the factory service manuals for the 65-74 2,3,4,5 and 7000 series tractors.

Found some on eBay, ones like I have go for around $100+ but I did see a CD version for around $30.

I downloaded a different manual and the pictures are better. Can see now that I was measuring my clearances at the wrong end of the control valve.

Still couldn"t find where the roll pin is supposed to go. Any ideas where this goes? It is about 1/4" in diameter and 1" long.

My plan is to order a new O-ring for the piston and during the install readjust the clearances that I messed up last time.

Not sure why it loaded the photo upside down.
Item #58 is the only roll pin I can think of at the moment
It serves as a guide for plate # 64

That helps a bunch. Thank you!

The way I read this, is the friction disc is bad and the lever drops to bottom??? You need to tighten or replace the friction disc????

(quoted from post at 10:12:21 03/23/19)
The way I read this, is the friction disc is bad and the lever drops to bottom??? You need to tighten or replace the friction disc????

Click to expand...

Where might this disc be located. I did try tightening the handle connection but it made no difference.

I will be leaving tomorrow afternoon and out of town until Thursday evening. When I get back I plan to tear into the job of fixing this.

I will be sure to check back for more help and suggestions. Thank you all for taking the time to help me.

(quoted from post at 09:20:48 03/23/19)

(quoted from post at 10:12:21 03/23/19)
The way I read this, is the friction disc is bad and the lever drops to bottom??? You need to tighten or replace the friction disc????

Click to expand...

Where might this disc be located. I did try tightening the handle connection but it made no difference.

I will be leaving tomorrow afternoon and out of town until Thursday evening. When I get back I plan to tear into the job of fixing this.

I will be sure to check back for more help and suggestions. Thank you all for taking the time to help me.

Click to expand...

Interesting, I have a late 60's 3500 and I too found a shiny roller "bearing" pin in my drain pan when I changed the fluids. Everything seems to work OK. 3 point is a bit slow and bleeds down. I attributed this to a misplaced part during a past wheel bearing replacement?

(quoted from post at 14:37:40 03/23/19)

Interesting, I have a late 60's 3500 and I too found a shiny roller "bearing" pin in my drain pan when I changed the fluids. Everything seems to work OK. 3 point is a bit slow and bleeds down. I attributed this to a misplaced part during a past wheel bearing replacement?

Click to expand...

A roll pin and a roller bearing pin are two different things. A roll pin is a piece of flat steel rolled into a tube and is hollow and it has a small gap along its length so that it will contract slightly when you drive it into position. They are not used in wheel bearings.

Yes, I shouldn't have said roll pin. This is a solid piece.

That's kind of what I figured.

Can someone tell me what the friction disc is made of?
Mine disintegrated upon removal and looks like a cork gasket material?

Not sure what it's made from but I think it's a tufter material than cork.
NH part # 81717214 should be what you need, less than $5

Thank you!

Pulled the lift cover assembly and readjusted the settings properly this time.

While in there I found where the dowel pin appears to have come from.

The o-ring on the lift piston was shot.

I ordered a new o-ring for it and noticed they listed a backing washer. There was no backing washer on my piston assembly. Does this washer fit into the o-ring groove?

The back bolt that secures the seat platform to the lift cover extends down and makes contact with the draft control.

I cannot find anywhere in my service manuals how to adjust this bolt/pin. Can anyone help me with this?

No real adjustment, just screw it in leaving enough threads sticking up to mount the seat

Thanks.

Some pictures of the lift cover assembly.



Here you can see where the 3/16 x 1.38" dowel pin goes. When going from draft to position control the plate with the "U" will extend out and twist to the side without the pin in place.



The back bolt holding the seat frame contacts the draft control plunger and holds it from turning side to side. If you look closely you can see the end of the bolt in it's cradle.

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Got it put back together and the lift is now working the way it's supposed to.

Thanks for the help.

Now I need to rebuild the power steering cylinder as it leaks. Already changed out the hoses thinking they were the problem but now I can see a steady drip from the cylinder.