801 Diesel Engine Dipstick Tube

When I bought my tractor it had a homemade dipstick and tube. I want to replace both and have both parts, anyone have any experience replacing the
tube?
 

Can't help with your question. Sorry.

Good to see you and your tractor have survived the flooding,. Did it impact you in any way?
 

I tried just a little when prepping for paint, but not having a replacement I quit before I ruined it.
 

They are tough to get out, I think they are swaged (sp) out of round so they don't vibrate themselves out. I ended up clamping onto it with vise grips and rotating it back and forth as I pulled up on it. It was way longer than I expected.

I "rodded" out the hole with some stiff wire on a cordless drill to clean it out before I tapped in the new one.

Tom
 
(quoted from post at 05:49:40 03/22/19)
Can't help with your question. Sorry.

Good to see you and your tractor have survived the flooding,. Did it impact you in any way?

The flooding got some basements, barns, fences and cattle. The big thing was that we lost the three bridges that connect our county with the one north of us. May be quite some time before they're repaired. Hardest thing was what the blizzard did to the newborn calves. I have a soft spot and seeing them piled up dead was about more than anyone can take.
 
(quoted from post at 14:34:47 03/23/19) Any one know why the tube is so long?

Yeah, I've noticed that they protrude quite a ways down into the sump. I assumed it was to make sure nothing was splashing up the tube. Dipstick and guide tube on my 871 are well down in the oil.
 
I got the answer to all my questions. First, a lot of people lose their dipsticks and replace them with a homemade rod that they then mark where the oil should be (this describes mine perfectly). No idea on why the tube was replaced with a homemade tube, probably during a previous rebuild. The reason the tube is so long is so that if someone puts the dipstick in incorrectly without the tube to guide and protect it, that it could possibly come into contact with the some part of the crank and that could cause a breakage during operation and we all know what happens when little pieces of metal are floating around in an engine. Recommendation was that I put a short tube in until I'm ready to drop the oil pan. Then short cut the old salvage dipstick and insert it into the short tube for when I'm operating the engine. When I need to check the oil before operating, use the full length new dipstick. Once I'm ready to drop the pan and make sure the full length tube goes into the proper place, then I can start using the new full length dipstick all the time without worrying about it causing a problem.
 

If it the same as my '63 4000, the oil pan on my 172 is a easy thing to drop, and the do it right now, and not worry about "where the heck did that dip stick go?" Then just use a gasket sealer on the old gasket. It won't leak if you do it right.
it's not like having to drop the pan on a car, which can be a pain in the butt.

But I am one to have things right, not "For now" For now seems to always come back, and bite you.

Pat
 
I agree. I dropped the pan today. However putting the tube in was a two man job until you got the bend in so that the tube would go where it was
intended. Person up top pushed and the person below guided it. Obviously the tube was put in during engine assembly at the factory before the oil
pump. That's the trick to work pass, but got it done.
 

The dipstick tube is long so that you can get a fairly accurate oil level reading even with the engine running.Many heavy duty and stationary engines have long tubes for this reason.
 

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