4600 ford tractor hard cranking

I have a neighbor that has a 4600 Ford Diesel. The tractor runs flawlessly when cranked. The only two ways he can crank it is with just a
very small shot of starting fluid, or pul it as little as ten feet and it fires right up. My question is does anyone think that a weak
battery,and dragging starter,or faulty injection pump. On e reason that I want to rule out injection pump is the speed that it cranks when
pulled or a small shot of starting fluid. Ant suggestions?

check/clean all the electrical connections - take the battery to a shop where they can check its condition - if that doesn't rectify the problem, have the starter examined/evaluated

When if fires up.. does it burn white for some time or clean up in 15 seconds or less. If it burns white for longer it means low compression or dirty injectors.

Low compression can be overcome by either and or pulling it so it spins over faster.


Or could be a crappy starter, cables or battery.

Dirty injectors can also make it take longer to start.

Since there are no glow plugs on the engine, a very good battery, cables and connections are important to cranking fast to let the engine make the heat needed to fire off the diesel. Using either, or pulling it off helps it do this. Some fords have the optional ""ThermoStart"" heater on the manifold that can help start under cold conditions.

Spliced battery cable ends are also a problem.

No smoke at all. Runs extremely smooth. I think we'll do what you said start with replacing the battery an cables.If that doesnt work, I'll
take the starter off and have it tested to make sure int snot dragging. Thanks for all of your help and suggestions!

I don't know about the 4600, but the smaller 3 cyl. Ford Diesels require at least 200rpm in order
to start. And I cringe anytime I hear someone using starting fluid.

Rockman5159,
Other concerns or areas to look at are:
Loss of prime to the pump: loose fittings, restriction at fuel filter. I had a new fuel cap that was not vented that caused a vacuum to be pulled.
Parasitic loads: Hydraulic pump trying to pump at high pressure, PTO engaged.
These are other things to consider.
HTH
Keith

excellent observations, thanks

wow ! thanks for all of the advice. I think this weekend we're going to replace battery and cables. Then were going to replace the fuel filters,and then give it a try. Thanks so much

(quoted from post at 13:40:47 03/14/19) wow ! thanks for all of the advice. I think this weekend we're going to replace battery and cables. Then were going to replace the fuel filters,and then give it a try. Thanks so much

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Don't replace the battery unless it is bad. In other words get it tested first.

Assume you are attempting to start with the clutch depressed and that ambient temperature is 40F or better.

If lower ambient temp, ensure Thermostart is functioning.....Many posts herein on what it is, where it's located physically, and how it works. It takes 30 seconds to start slobbering so holding your key in the TS position.....where the red lights go out between ON and Start positions for like a minute is best for me.
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10V at the starter case (-) and 3x8" copper stud (+) where the battery cable attaches to the starter...stud proper, not a cable lead or something else........while rolling the engine.

If OK, compression low, or faulty starter. If it starts ok after warmed up, then forget the faulty starter part.
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If not, Follow the voltage. Anything that isn't up to par will have a voltage drop across it or will get warm as you crank.

If the voltage across the actual battery terminals (not the cable connectors) isn't 11v while cranking, have the battery load tested to 300 amps. If it can't hold ll volts at 300 amps replace it. If it can, recharge it to full capacity and go after your cabling ensuring that all cable connections have been removed, cleaned till shiny and reinstalled with the proper torque.

Not a difficult process. Just follow the voltage.

(quoted from post at 19:14:31 03/14/19)

(quoted from post at 13:40:47 03/14/19) wow ! thanks for all of the advice. I think this weekend we're going to replace battery and cables. Then were going to replace the fuel filters,and then give it a try. Thanks so much

Click to expand...

Don't replace the battery unless it is bad. In other words get it tested first.

Click to expand...

Also make sure that it is the proper battery for the application. If it is a 350 CCA car battery and it tests fine, it still won't spin that diesel tractor engine fast enough to start it.

+1......... 200 rpms is what I read on a good rpm for starting. All my Fords, 2000D, 3000D, and 3910D have large batteries and are over 650 cca with the
3910 up around 925.