Loader removal, ford 4500

mikewood869

Well-known Member
Getting ready to pull the loader off the 4500, on the right hand side (by he levers to make the loader go up and down and tilt the bucket), do those two lines need to be capped or can I just leave them open?
 
I try to cap/plug and mark all the lines that are taken off mostly for dirt or time may be apart. The loader pins are tapered in uprites. Drive from inside out.
 
(quoted from post at 02:28:31 03/14/19) I try to cap/plug and mark all the lines that are taken off mostly for dirt or time may be apart. The loader pins are tapered in uprites. Drive from inside out.
We got the left of the loader off yesterday and are getting ready for the right side. Was just wondering if fluid would go everywhere if we were to have the lines off while the tractor is running.
 
Ended up getting the left side of the loader under the pin today and the right side doesn't want to come off all the way (that the arm a 1 1/2 inch off the pin). We're going to have to drag the tractor out then use the 6610 as dead weight with a come a long or chain because the tractor is at an angle where there are no trees and can't fit a tractor next to the 4500. But that's going to have to wait till the ground either hardens or dries up. There's rain tomorrow.
 
Ended up getting the loader off the tractor yesterday and the tractor drives like a Buick and feels like a couch when driving (bouncy). The power steering still doesn't work but the power steering pump works (took the hydraulic pump for the loader and fluid still came out when the tractor was still running). The steering is worse than a Ford 8n with a loader. The tractor drives fine in reverse but in forward, the tractor has no power (torque converter issue it seems).
 
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Mike, I wish I had removed my loader like you did. I had to lift mine with my small back hoe from the points that mount to the rear axle high enough to pull the tractor out. After I take it apart to paint I will put it back on like you took yours apart.
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(quoted from post at 20:58:56 03/22/19) Ended up getting the loader off the tractor yesterday and the tractor drives like a Buick and feels like a couch when driving (bouncy). The power steering still doesn't work but the power steering pump works (took the hydraulic pump for the loader and fluid still came out when the tractor was still running). The steering is worse than a Ford 8n with a loader. The tractor drives fine in reverse but in forward, the tractor has no power (torque converter issue it seems).

You got the loader arms off of the tractor, not the whole loader, which includes the frame. If this is the one that you're planning to do the engine swap on, you're still going to need to remove the loader frame to accomplish that.
 
(quoted from post at 00:17:33 03/23/19)
You got the loader arms off of the tractor, not the whole loader, which includes the frame. If this is the one that you're planning to do the engine swap on, you're still going to need to remove the loader frame to accomplish that.

I do know that, still going to be a pain though.
 
(quoted from post at 21:44:23 03/22/19) Mike, I wish I had removed my loader like you did. I had to lift mine with my small back hoe from the points that mount to the rear axle high enough to pull the tractor out. After I take it apart to paint I will put it back on like you took yours apart.
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In the long run, I would have liked to have taken off the loader the way you did it (blocks and jacks in the rear with a loader in the front of the tractor supporting the bucket). To take the loader off whole. We wacked the arm most of the way off with a sledgehammer right to the end, but the pin that hold the loader arm to the frame didn't want to come off all the way, so we ended up pulling the left side off with the John Deere A (the loader arm needed 1/2 inch to come off). That was on the left side. On the right side, we wacked the arm with the sledgehammer up to when the arm was an inch from dropping. We then chained the arm to a tree and used a come-along and that didn't work. Some days later I grabbed the 6610 and pulled out the tractor (rain and mud, the ground became a little stiffer, the 4500 was also near trees to where I couldn’t even fix the Ford 8n). Once the 4500 was pulled out enough we ended up using the John Deere A as dead weight (chain going around the right support arm, under the pin for the loader arm) and using the loader on the 6610 to pull off the right arm. Once the loader was in the air, we pulled the John Deere A around and towed the 4500 out from the loader. Later we disconnected the hydraulic pump shaft going from the engine, then plugged a line on the loader controls (turns out that the power steering pump was still making pressure) and took the tractor for a test ride. As of right now I have been investigating to see what some of the electronic issues are now.
 

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