Slow cranking 3000

Last summer I split my '70 gas 3000 to change out the freeze plugs. Ever since putting it back together, it turns over noticeably slower. It's almost like there's a bind somewhere. It runs fine, though it's a lot harder to start in colder weather because of the slow cranking. I'd like to fix the issue, but honestly not sure where to look. Maybe something wasn't square when I put it back together?

Did you check the battery cable connections ? Sounds like a loose ground.

I have gone through both cables. They both needed work but hasn't changed anything yet. Also tried different battery.
Another thing I noticed that leads me to think it's bound up somewhere is that when I shut it off, it's shuts down faster than it used to. If that makes sense. Similar to if you shut off the tractor while brush hogging some weeds.

Your comment about shutting down faster is a clue here. If the engine itself was the reason for the binding, it would have seized up by now. I suspect a hydraulic pump that is going up against relief constantly. Try this: Start the engine and pull a remote handle back with nothing plugged into the couplers. The engine should bog. If it does not, suspect the hydraulic system is deadheading.

(quoted from post at 17:05:17 02/18/19) Your comment about shutting down faster is a clue here. If the engine itself was the reason for the binding, it would have seized up by now. I suspect a hydraulic pump that is going up against relief constantly. Try this: Start the engine and pull a remote handle back with nothing plugged into the couplers. The engine should bog. If it does not, suspect the hydraulic system is deadheading.

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Thanks. I'll give this a shot tonight.

Might be on to something. I get almost no response when I pull either remote handle. If I hold it for a few seconds I hear a very slight buzzing, but it certainly doesn’t bog down at all.

I didn't get to mess with it much last night, but I hope to tonight. I have a couple things I planned on checking, but thought I'd check what others thought the best plan of action would be? I'm not super knowledgeable on hydraulics.

Go to Radio Shack and get a $5 multimeter. Read up on how to use it, especially the DC Volts function.

The starter needs voltage across it to spin. Across it means + on the solenoid input terminal and - on the starter case. I like to use 10 Volts DC....use the
20V DC scale, Red on solenoid input terminal and black on starter case.....battery terminal voltage will be present initially.......whatever voltage you
measured across your battery + and - terminal......12.75V give or take is a good number.

While holding the leads as you have them, have someone attempt to start the tractor and read the voltage during the process. It will take a couple of
seconds to stabilize but when it does....while the starter is still turning, read 10V or more. If you don't have that much voltage it could be caused by your
electrical circuit or the load on the starter caused by something binding.

Easy to push the clutch all the way in while doing the above which should eliminate most all mechanical related problems not engine proper related, if it
causes the voltage to achieve that number.

Otherwise, assuming the swapped battery was in proper condition to do the job at the time, (a 2-300 Amp battery test to determine that would help.....on
both batteries while you are at it....auto parts stores can test the batteries for you), you are chasing wiring problems.

A good place to start is where did you have your battery - lead connected before and where now? Did you move it in the split? If so, that is where I
would start looking and you could use your voltmeter across connections to look for the smoking gun. The bad connection will have a volt to several
volts across the joint.....like one lead on the battery terminal mounted under an interfacing bolt and the other lead to the ENGINE casting (paint scraped
off, nice and shiny).

You could have paint or rust between the contact points that you didn't have before the split........I like to have my battery - lug under a starter mounting
bolt which ensures it is in direct contact with the starter case....necessary for good high current conduction.

Otherwise, as can happen, something else decided to fail by coincidence, during your maintenance activity, in the cranking circuit and could be any
component, any connection, or resistance that your depressing the clutch failed to catch......tranny shaft jammed in clutch disc too far forcing the clutch
disc against the flywheel when it isn't supposed to be....clutch springs compressed, relieving pressure on disc, via clutch pedal.

Thank you, lots of good info. I hope to dive into it tomorrow, though not at the top of my to-do list right now. I tried a while back to check voltage, but the DC function on my meter crapped out and I keep forgetting to get a new one. I was convinced it was hydraulics the other day, but then I think I ruled that out.