Ford 3400 Tractor Specs

tjcc1978

Member
We are looking to probably purchase this tractor from this guy and he states it's an industrial tractor, but I have no idea if it is or not. He also says that he has no title for it, but are unsure if tractors require titles. I have pictures that I will post. Thanks.

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A 3400 would be considered at least a semi-industrial "utility" tractor. While many of the components are
the same as the ag versions, the front axle would be a notable exception, which is heavier.
 
Good looking rig. Priced good with the loader,rear weights and great looking tires. About right on the blade and cutter here in my next of the woods. Assuming the gas burner runs out well. Would bring more with a diesel engine.
 

What we are trying to find out is if it is an industrial tractor or not? The owner said that it is...that he was told that by the person he bought it from. And how does one tell by the tractor number or what?
 
Industrial models also generally, if
not always, had a dedicated
hydraulic pump that drives from the
front of the crankshaft to operate
loader
 
So, what is the for-sure way to tell if it is industrial or not? You can't tell by the pics I sent? Could we see the hydraulic pump on the tractor for the loader? We are planning to check it out this week, we have not even heard it run or drive yet.
 
Hi
I see you are looking for a second
opinion. The place you asked about this
tractor last week is ok but this place is
a much superior forum.
The magic number on your tractor is this
one.
34022G
3= 3000 platform
40= UTILITY
2= gas
2= transmission(non live) pto
G = ??

The other important number is 8B06B
8 = 1968
B = February
06 = 6th day of the month
B = afternoon shift.
 
Take a look at the front axle, it should be one-piece, no bolt holes to adjust the track width. Loader front mount should have the pump lined up with the front axle pivot pin.

It has power steering, should have a cast iron oil pan.

I thought all the 3400s were "Industrials"...... Smallest units Ford made at the time to work a loader full time is what I remember reading when I got mine.
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Ok, this does not help me when one person says it is and another says it's not. Guess we will have to wait and see when we go to look at it this week.
 
Technically the 3400 is the Utility version of the series, but it's
often called an Industrial. The true Industrial of the series is
3500 or 3550. Below is a Feb 2012 post by Tony Jacobs, an expert in
these matters, you might find interesting.

"Hello Rick , You can can pick all the nuts you want also but SEAN
IS RIGHT a?3400?is NOT AN?INDUSTRIAL?and NEVER WILL BE . A s far as
Convential Wisdom goes ANYTHING that is not an AG TRACTOR can be
listed as A?INDUSTRIAL?DERIVATIVE just like a LCG TRACTOR but you
can install an?INDUSTRIAL?LOADER OR BACKHOE on that either . If
a?3400?is an?Industrial?them WHY did FORD built a
3500?Industrial?with a BIGGER FRONT AXLE , BIGGER REAR AXLE , BIGGER
LOADER , and offer?Industrial?Transmissions like the POWER REVERSER
that ARE NOT AVAILABLE on the?3400?? Why does a
735?Industrial?Loader on a 3500 lift more than a 735 loader on
a?3400?lift ? Because a 3500 is a?INDUSTRIAL?and a?3400?IS NOT . Why
can you put a 15 foot Ford hoe a 3500 and not a?3400because
a?3400?is not an INDSUTRIAL . A 3000 is an AG TRACTOR , A?3400?is a
UTILITY TRACTOR and a 3500/3550 is a?INDUSTRIAL?TRACTOR That is how
FORD classified them not me or Sean . A 4000 is an AG TRACTOR , a
4400 is a UTILITY TRACTOR and a 4500 is a?INDUSTRIAL?TRACTOR .
That's the way it is plain and simple if you or anyone else does not
like it take it up with FORD they built them and classified them not
ME , YOU or SEAN ."
 

Thank you for this Andy. Guess the owner was just calling it an industrial because the person he got it from called it that and that most people call them that...even though they really aren't built as industrials.

It doesn't really matter, I suppose...we haven't been able to find one at all like this where we are at for what we can afford.



I just got confirmation from the owner that the transmission is a manual transmission.
 
I have a 3400 diesel and dealer calls it industrial. It has a 10' back-hoe and can also use three point hitch for rotary mower. Bought it in 73 and is best tractor I have had. Real ruged.
 

My brother has a 3400 utility, many call them industrials because of the yellow paint.
My brothers has the standard 8x2 trans like my ag tractors have but the letter G indicates that one has a 4x4 manual reverser trans which is 4 forward gears and 4 reverse gears.
One of the lesser desirable trans in my book, not having live pto also the devalues it some, 5 ft cutter would also be better to have than a 4 ft.

Not sure where your located but around here that's a $3500-4000 tractor, his price is more inline with a diesel, 8x2 trans, live pto model.
$500 for the mower and blade is about right.
 
The serial number is on that foil tag.
See tractor number.
But...
I thought they didn't start putting the
foil tag under the hood till later.
Others here will know.
Remember that after 50 years a lot of
components could have been changed. Hoods,
shrouds, even transmissions, engines and
rear ends can be readily swapped.
To positively I D the transmission you
need to look on the transmission - just
above and behind the starter.
See photo for example.
Manual means it has a clutch and gear
shift lever/s.
I wouldn't worry too much about it being
stolen.
I've been on these boards for nearly 18
years and can't remember ever hearing of
one being stolen. Maybe others have but I
have not.
There are no titles on these things.
If you buy this tractor just get a bill of
sale with sellers name, address, etc and
you will be covered.
If the tractor number (serial#) on the
foil tag does not match the one on the
transmission like in my photo use the one
on the transmission. Transmission is much
harder to change than the hood.


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Owner told me transmission is manual, what does that mean?

It means that you shift manually and that it uses a clutch. It could be a 6 speed (3 forward and 1 reverse on the main shifter and hi/low range on the shorter shifter) or and 8 speed (4 forward and 1 reverse plus hi/low) or a 4x4 manual reverser (2 forward and 2 reverse on main shifter plus hi/low). There were two transmissions available on that mode that were not manual transmissions, the Select-O-Speed and the torque converter power reverser.

I thought they didn't start putting the
foil tag under the hood till later.

The earliest foil tag I've seen was November 1966.
 
He just told me it doesn't have lights. It has the switch and wiring, but no lights. Is that normal for a tractor like this? I also got him to take a picture like the one Ultradog MN posted. It has the same number on the bottom as the tag. So, tractor number is indeed serial number, thanks.

We are now debating whether or not to get it because it's gas. We have been reading all over these forums and online that the diesel ones are much, much better. Is this true? The places we were reading are saying the gas tractors break down a lot more? True?


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Having lights or not means nothing.
You can buy a set of LED lights with 3
times the power of original for cheap.
I always take the lights off my tractors
anyway to keep fron smashing them.
As for gas vs diesel they are both good.
I have both. Diesel is a bit more reliable
because you dont gave spark. They also get
better mileage. But they also stink and
are more noisy.
Gassers start better in the cold too.
If anything about that tractor made me
balk it would not be fuel type or lights.
It would be the transmission.
As I stated earlier that 4x4 might not
have the selections I'm used to.
 

Agree with UD!
There's a little more maintenance on the gas models and although all of mine are diesel, if I lived farther north in cooler climates I'd have at lease one gas tractor.
The deal stopper for me is the 4x4 trans, although it is slightly slower than the old 4 speed used on 8N's and such, and would work ok for loader work, back blading and mowing, it doesn't have the low gears for tilling or other apps that require slower speeds.
Not having live pto is another minus.
 
Thanks everyone for your help. At least now we know what to look for etc. My husband is now pretty set on a diesel...I do not know why. He said he doesn't want to be doing major repairs all the time. We live in NW New Mexico and it does get cold here in winter, but I don't know if we would be using it in winter. I have not been able to find a diesel tractor with a loader here for what we can afford...so who knows. But I appreciate all of your help. Thanks!
 
The lights were probably removed when they added the loader, as they originally stuck out on the sides of the radiator shroud and it is likely that they would have interfered with the loader. I removed the headlights on my 4000 when I added a loader with the intention of adding lights somewhere else later, but since I have never had to use it in the dark I have just never gotten around to it. The original headlight switch was shot when I got it and I have a replacement in a box somewhere around here, but that won't go on until I get around to adding lights back to it.
 
We just found a Ford 4600 with a loader on it for $5000. But do not know anything about it. My husband wants it, but we need to know what we should be looking for on this one!
 

Now that's what I'm talking about!!

4600 All Purpose diesel with independent pto and 8x2 trans.
Built 10/25/77

That's a newer model of my 4000, their a solid built tractor with a much stronger front axle for loader work than the 3400.
The inboard wet disc brakes offer superior stopping power over the smaller tractors drum brakes.
If the engine and clutch are ok that's a good price for that model with a loader.
 

We are attempting to get pics from the guy since he is a 5 hour drive from us. My husband wants it. The owner said everything runs, it just needs a new battery, no leaks and the hydraulics and PTO work as they are supposed to, supposedly.
 
That is significantly more tractor than a
3400.
Is 52 hp vs 37 hp on the 3400.
As Destroked said it has way better brakes
an 8 speed transmission which is best.
Also they have upgraded hydraulics,
heavier lift capacity on the 3 point
better electrical system and a more
reliable tachometer which usually still
works.
I also think that is a good to very good
price for that tractor with loader.
 
DS,
I might dispute with you a bit on whether
a 4000/4600 has a stronger front end than
a 3400. The heavy spindle, non adjustable
front axle combined with heavy bolster and
cast iron pan on a 3400 will likely carry
more loader than a 4600 would.
Not that it matters here as these guys
aren't likely to work the last inch of
life out of either of them.
Aside from it having wishbone style front
end a 3400 axle is not to be scoffed at.
 
Well, we will be new owners of a Ford 4600 by the end of this week. Here are some more pictures. We talked with the owner on the phone, he even sent us some videos of it running and yes, it's old and beat up, but it runs, and he has never had any problems with it. For $5200 we are getting the tractor, a fork that hangs on the bucket, a 5' blade and an auger. We will be getting a new battery for it on Thursday when we go to pick it up. Owner was helpful over the phone to describe it better.
It also has a block heater for cold starts...




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I have videos of it, but they are in cellphone format, and I do not know how to convert them. Anyways, we will be picking it up Thursday sometime. He said the tractor has had the alternator and starter replaced recently. Just needs a new battery. No leaks, no hydraulic issues or PTO problems. No cracks he said that he is aware of. It does need to be painted, it has a hole in the bucket on top but he said it works fine. We shall see Thursday. Hopefully not more snow either.
 
The 3400 front axle is basically the same as on the 4 cylinder 2000 & 4000 light industrial models. It is heavier duty than the adjustable width radius rod front axles of the 3 cylinder 2000 & 3000 ag models and the "prior" 4 cylinder ag models, but the front bolster and center pivot are still a weak point. The front bolster & center pivot of the 4000/4600 is basically the same as the 4400, and in my opinion is much stouter than the bolster & center pivot on the 3400. Just my opinion.
 
Ok, why can't I edit any of my posts? It says editing is temporarily disabled. So now I have to post additional info to try and fix my previous posts...
 

I am trying to delete my want ad in the classifieds but it won't let me. It says the information I put in is incorrect when I know it is...can someone delete it for me?
 
(quoted from post at 21:16:50 02/18/19) Ok, why can't I edit any of my posts? It says editing is temporarily disabled. So now I have to post additional info to try and fix my previous posts...

The ability to edit posts on this site has been disabled for quite a while. The owners/administrators claim that it is because they are running the site with both classic and modern views enabled, so it is running with two databases and that means that all posts are stored twice, and the software doesn't have the ability to edit posts in both databases, so they just disabled the edit feature. Otherwise when you edit a post it would only change the copy in the database related to the view you are using when you edit it and they would be out of sync.
 
I disagree.
Yes, the 3400 axle itself is almost
identical to the prior light industrials.
Those have much bigger spindles, hubs and
bearings than any under 60 hp ag models.
The soft spot on the priors was the
bolster/engine mount and engine casting
itself.
The 3400 combined the bigger axle
componants with a much bigger bolster than
the priors that also bolted to the CI pan
- which also bolted both to the engine And
transmission. The single center pin is
heavier than that on a 4000. They didn't
need the front pivot because of the radius
rods.
The spindles, hubs, bearings are
noticeably stouter than a 4000/4600.
A 4400 axle is heavier yet - one piece,
non adjustable, used a 5000 bolster and
pivots both on the bolster and CI pan.
Probably uses the same heavy hubs as a
3400.
I don't know how we could ever settle a
bet but I'd put a 6 pack on a 3400 front
end being rated for more than a 4000/4600
AP.
 
For $5200 we are getting the tractor, a fork that hangs on the bucket, a 5' blade and an auger. We will be getting a new battery for it on Thursday when we go to pick it up. It also has a block heater for cold starts.
 
Ok all you tractor gurus out here....I have to know...

What kind of trailer should we use to haul this home with? The trailer we have is a 16 ft car hauler it has the 2 3/8" side metal tubing. This tractor has a loader on it. From the very back of the tractor to the front of the loader lying down is 16 ft....
 
I gotta start by asking what you will pull
the trailer with.
I would want a 3/4 ton pickup with the
trailer brake controller in it.
You could haul it on a 16' car hauler.
Most of those are 7000 gvw trailers
though. I'm guessing that tractor with
loader and probably fluid in the rear
tires will push the tractor weight to
maybe 5500-6000 lbs. Add the 1200-1400?
lbs the trailer weighs and you are really
at or above your limit. I have done it.
That much and a little more. Once from TX
and a couple times from IN and southern
IA.
I had good brakes and good tires on the
trailer.
Some trailers are rated for more too.
The one I have now is good for 13K but I
just license it for 11K.
Tell us the GVWR of the trailer.
Or count the lug nuts on the wheels.
5 or 6 lugs is usually 7K trailer.
8 lug nuts is 11-13K
PS,
Next time start a new thread.
Those of us on Classic view might not see
it if it rolls off of page one here.
 
We have a 2012 Ford F250. The Tractor width is 83" at it's widest point in the back with the rear tires. The length is 16' from the very back to the front loader with it lying down. The trailer is rated at 7k. Trailer weight is 1,200 lbs. Problem is not weight. It's the width of the rear tires. Brakes are on the rear axle. Truck has trailer brake controls. Tires are brand new on trailer. Trailer width is equal to the size of the widest point of the tractor. Width is our issue....
 
If the tractor tires won't fit between the
trailer tires you will need to move your
tractor tires in.
All of these Fords have adjustable tire
width.
You will need to remove the fenders on the
tractor and dish the rims in.
Looking at your photos again
I forgot your tires are extra wide.. You
may not be able to dish them in enough.
They might rub the running boards on the
tractor. Can't say from here.
Remember that the tires likely have fluid
in them. Probably the whole tire and rim
weighs upwards of 800-1K lbs each. Not an
easy job to move them.
That much tire/fluid puts you past yellow
and well into the orange zone on trailer
capacity too.
I'm thinking you need a different trailer.
10K gvwr and a deck over type trailer.
Your pickup will still pull it.
Load the tractor rear end first. Easier to
get the load balanced. Let the loader
bucket hang 1-2 even 3+' off the back end
if needed.
Find the sweet spot. You Do Not want to
haul it so the trailer is rear end heavy.
The tail will wag the dog and be very
scary.
 

You have plenty of truck but I'd see if I could borrow or rent a bigger trailer.
I hauled a 3930 which is about the same side as that 4600 from Birmingham, Al back to Ky on my smaller 7k trailer, no loader or fluid in the tires and that was all the trailer wanted.
I took 6x6's and 2x6's with me, stacked them beside the fenders to drive the back tires over the fenders.
 
Be sure and grab the old battery so you can use it as a core. I made the mistake of leaving an old battery when I bought my tractor and it cost me 35 bucks.

The battery tray swings out for maintenance. Careful - it is likely paper thin in spots. Get a good 4DLTE battery and make sure the charging light goes out after starting the tractor. I bought an HD interstate battery. Cost 190 plus core.
The battery tractor supply sells looks identical and costs less.

I would check the fluid level in the tires. You can get an idea of how full they are by pounding the sidewalks with a hammer. Otherwise you might have a light tire that always wants to spin first when using the loader.
 
We found a 20 ft. Long 7 ft wide flatdeck trailer we are renting from a local equipment rental co. $80 per day. We should be good now hopefully.
 

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