Update on that stuck engine

Ultradog MN

Well-known Member
Location
Twin Cities
Last weekend it was getting late - and cold - when I pulled the head off this engine. So when I got it off and saw the condition of the bores I just snapped a couple of photos and went in the house to clean up.
It was in the below 0 degree temp range for much of last week so I didn't even go out in the garage.
Then yesterday I was out there and took another peek at it. I hadn't removed the head gasket when I pulled the head so I lifted one corner with a scraper and pulled it off.
Imagine that!
This engine has been sleeved.
I guess if I was a good mechanic I would have thought to remove the gasket when I got the head off. Doh!
Instead I thought about it all week as being a junk engine.
I might be able to save this block after all. At the very least I should be to get the pistons/sleeves out and likely save the rods.
cvphoto12410.jpg
 
I guess I don't understand your post. Even if the block had not been sleeved, you still should have been able to restore it by then having it sleeved.

One more comment...a good sleeve job on a parent bore block will be almost impossible to see. Often times people will mistake the head gasket fire ring imprint on the deck surface as a sleeve flange. I'm not saying that's what you did here, but it has been done before.
 

Just so we are on the same page Bern, I have posted about 2 blocks lately.
On the first one, the replacement block I bought, I could NOT see the sleeves from the top. It had undersized bores if you remember.
On this ugly block the sleeves are very easy to see and I can actually "catch" the top of the flange with a fingernail.
As badly as the pistons are rusted into this ugly block I was doubtful I could get them out - at least not without destroying the rods.
Now that I see it has been sleeved it should be relatively easy to push the piston, sleeve and all out of it.
Hope that makes sense.
 
That is seemingly good news, this tractor sure looks straight otherwise, still going to stay whole and or what would it go for in your area ?
 
Yes, I recall the two different blocks, and that the one you're posting about now is not the undersized one.

That was a poor sleeve job if you can catch the lip with your fingernail. Every time I have a Ford block sleeved, the deck is always surfaced afterwards to get everything flat and true. It's generally after it's surfaced that you can hardly even tell that it was sleeved.

Now for the bad news: The fact that it's sleeved isn't going to make it any easier to get apart. That is a dry sleeve, which means it is a press fit in the block. Even under normal conditions, the general recommendation for removal is to weld beads around the inside, which causes the sleeve to shrink and make it easier to get out.

We're working on a 3020 JD right now in our shop that had cylinders that looked almost as bad as yours. We flipped the block upside down on the floor, set the deck surface on two 4x4 blocks, pulled the crank out from the bottom, and then drove the liner/piston/rod assembly out the top. They came out relatively easy, because they were wet sleeved.

Don't count on yours coming out as easily. That said, it's largely going to depend on how tight of a press fit it is in the cylinder. If it's thin wall, it might not be too bad.
 

Would not heating up the sleeve make them heat up and expand? I have always heated the outside, and cooled the inside to get something into a tight bore.

I have always hit tight bores with a arc welder on the outside to heat it up, and expand, then drive what ever inside out.

Pat
 
(quoted from post at 19:54:23 02/10/19)
Would not heating up the sleeve make them heat up and expand? I have always heated the outside, and cooled the inside to get something into a tight bore.

I have always hit tight bores with a arc welder on the outside to heat it up, and expand, then drive what ever inside out.

Pat

While you are laying the bead of weld on the inside they do swell from the heat but once the bead is laid down and they cool then they shrink more that the surrounding block and so break themselves loose. I know it seems counter-intuitive, but that's what happens.
 
Hey Jerry, I don't think you will find it easy to get type of sleeve out. I'm not saying it's impossible but it's not the same thing as a block that is manufactured with dry sleaves. They will have to bore that sleeve out. If you need to use that block you might consider boring it to the next oversize that will clean it up. Good luck my friend.
Ron
 

Thanks, for the reply. I have not ever removed a sleeve in a block. Sounds backwards, but makes sense.

Thanks, Pat
 
UD, I'd still use that hand boring tool to cut those sleeves through the rust..... Maybe the sleeve will stay and the piston assemblies will drop through.
 

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