One last shot - Ignition Mystery

I feel like I'm out of options here. I'm still getting really inconsistent spark.

I'm getting consistent spark to the cap. I've added the rotor clip, new Napa rotor, new Napa cap, plug wires are less than 2 years old and tested perfect, and I even put in new plugs for good measure.

My firing order is 1243, with 1 being closest to the front of the tractor. The distributor shaft doesn't seem to have any play in it.

Timing is darn close, and I've tried adjusting slightly and it doesn't help in the least.

It will start then just jump all over the place. Choke does nothing, starting fluid does nothing... I have no idea what to do next.

I'm at the end of the rope with this thing.
 
Pull coil wire out of center of cap and check for spark from that high-tension wire with a tester with a spark gap (NOT a neon spark tester) to see if spark out of COIL is consistent.

Post back!
 

I'm using the "CTA Ignition Tester" from Fleet Farm.

I've tested it with both the tester and placing the wire toward ground.

When I first hit the button, it seems to be consistent. The longer I do it, however, the more I noticed one little drop, then another, and it's no longer consistent... so frustrating.

I had previously not gotten a spark from the coil, so in trying to fix that, I found my coil out of spec and burned points, so everything got changed out. I've replaced the primary screw with a wire that goes directly from the points to the coil per the suggestion of the Mom & Pop parts place, and that seemed to help.
 
I had the same thing on an 881. All ignition parts new , dist good, carb good, but timing was all over the place. I replaced the points w/Standard Blue Streak & problem solved. The "old" points were brand new when I put them in & the tractor ran just as you describe from the time I put them in.
 
Get s real tester with a spark gap instead of that stupid neon thing and do what I previously suggested.


The spark should jump at least an 1/8" to 3/16" gap and be consistent, the neon thingy doesn't give you an indication of spark quality/strength, just that there's enough "juice" to fire off the neon..

In my experience, the most common cause of intermittent spark is dirty breaker points, a bad condenser can do some strange things, as well.

<img src = "https://cloudfront.zoro.com/product/full/Z2wCJ_icpEx_.JPG">

ONE example of a spark tester with an adjustable spark gap
 
(quoted from post at 16:51:17 02/02/19)
The spark should jump at least an 1/8" to 3/16" gap and be consistent,

1/8 to 3/16 of an inch is nothing. A good fat blue spark should jump more than half an inch, and most will jump considerably further than that if the system is in good shape.
 
Just to review. You said new NAPA cap and rotor. What brand points and condenser are currently in it? In a previous post you said you converted it to 12 volts, if I remember right. Positive or negative ground? What did you get for a new coil, 12 volt, resistor required or not? Which terminal of the coil is hooked to the ignition wire and which to the distributor wire? Is there a resistor anywhere in the feed to the coil? Firing order is 1243 and distributor rotation is CW, correct? Have you traced the wire back to the switch to be sure it is not chafed and rubbing somewhere causing an intermittent short when running?
 
Just a thought, but have you checked the primary conductor and insulator bushing on the distributor. They will sometime break. I am wondering if it is causing an intermittent short. Hope this helps
 
"It will start then just jump all over the place."

Are you still having trouble with spark or looking at timing?
It seems like you are talking about the timing jumping all over the place.
If so, have you checked the advance weights in the distributor?
Are they free, pins in tact and the springs in good condition?
If you're still having trouble with spark, timing won't matter much.
 
Have you tried "hot-wiring" it? Run a wire from the battery hot post direct to the input terminal of the coil. Don't forget it and leave it on there or you may burn the points. I had a bad connection on the key switch one time.
 
(quoted from post at 10:00:50 02/03/19) I'm with Mike-neohio. I'd recheck that firing order!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I believe he has the correct firing order, at least by this info from the Ford manual I have.


mvphoto30827.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 17:05:03 02/02/19) Just to review. You said new NAPA cap and rotor. What brand points and condenser are currently in it? In a previous post you said you converted it to 12 volts, if I remember right. Positive or negative ground? What did you get for a new coil, 12 volt, resistor required or not? Which terminal of the coil is hooked to the ignition wire and which to the distributor wire? Is there a resistor anywhere in the feed to the coil? Firing order is 1243 and distributor rotation is CW, correct? Have you traced the wire back to the switch to be sure it is not chafed and rubbing somewhere causing an intermittent short when running?

The points are the only thing that isn't from Napa, and I believe they are "Calco" brand from Fleet Farm in WI.

I converted from Pos. Ground 6v to Neg ground 12v.

Coil is internally resisted.

Firing order is 1243 and CW, correct.

I've always gotten the correct amount of voltage at the coil and have also run a jumper direct from the battery.

Thank you, any more insight you might have based on those answers would be wonderful. It's gotten to the point that I just can't spend so much time on this thing while other chores and projects sit.
 
I would get a set of new points and condenser, there seems to be a lot of issues around some of the points and condensers sold now. Many say if your condenser is working don't change it, I won't disagree with that. I recommend getting either Standard's Blue Streak ones (not Standard's "trade" priced T series they have now besides the Blue Streak ones) or the NAPA's Echlin ones. Move the points' arm once you get them installed to be sure there is no binding and the contacts hit squarely. Clean the point contacts with paper after you set them to get any oily residue off them. I fold a dollar bill up and use that to run through them. Closely check to see that the wire to the points isn't chafed or a terminal touching other than the connection locations. Some say it doesn't really make a difference but, is the power wire to the coil on the + terminal and the distributor wire on the - terminal?

If you want to experiment and haven't already done this, try using your old condenser. Some have had the old condenser work when the new ones wouldn't.
 
Also if you are lubing the points' rubbing block be sparing with any lube in there, it can sling out and contaminate the points while the engine is running.
 
You mentioned jumpering straight across. I would say you need new components now. Ballast resistor is required on a points setup to reduce down to 9vdc. You'll burn out your
condenser and coil pretty quick if you bypassed the ballast resistor by jumpering.

Make sure you have a ballast resistor inline between pos terminal of the battery and the ignition. Should be 9vdc measured.

Once you verify wiring, make sure you have the correct internally resisted coil or you will kill your condenser that way, too. I think 3 ohms is correct but I don't have it in
front of me.

For what it's worth, I removed my ballast resistor by replacing entire ignition with Pertronix 1244, suppression wires and 3 ohm coil. Straight 12vdc to the Pertronix. It has been
headache free.
 
We went through this same issue several years ago. The firing order was not the same as more recent cars I was used to and if I remember it is cast into the block. 1243.

The local tractor repair had replaced the points and condenser. The condenser twice. It was finally solved. Both new condensers were bad. I had used a hybrid coil and transister pack to bypass everything but the points. The tractor immediately ran correctly, but that set of bad condensers really screwed things up. I said it was something under the ignition cap, either a bad ground or bad condenser. They finally found the bad condenser. I really had nothing to do with the final solution except making a query as to why it ran correctly with the clip in bypass.
 
(quoted from post at 14:16:28 02/02/19) I feel like I'm out of options here. I'm still getting really inconsistent spark.

I'm getting consistent spark to the cap. I've added the rotor clip, new Napa rotor, new Napa cap, plug wires are less than 2 years old and tested perfect, and I even put in new plugs for good measure.

My firing order is 1243, with 1 being closest to the front of the tractor. The distributor shaft doesn't seem to have any play in it.

Timing is darn close, and I've tried adjusting slightly and it doesn't help in the least.

It will start then just jump all over the place. Choke does nothing, starting fluid does nothing... I have no idea what to do next.

I'm at the end of the rope with this thing.
Your problem sounds a lot like an intermittent or loose wire somewhere! Or a wire that is chafed and touching something metal. Just from the description you gave.
 

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