8N Manifold

jerryinga

Member
How was I supposed to know antifreeze would run out when I removed the manifold bolts on my 1952 8N
When I replace the bolts what should I place ( if anything ) on the threads Teflon tape or paste. etc
 
First, they?re usually studs not bolts so they don?t normally get completely removed. If they do come out I use red rtv silicone. To seal them. I always let the silicone cure before refilling with coolant.
 

you got some good answers. There is, however, a board on this site dedicated specifically to the N series tractors. you might ask your question there if you already haven't. There'd likely be a plethora of good answers there too.
 

I would avoid silicone for that application. I have had water creep in between the cast iron and the silicone causing bad rusting.
 
Yes, some questions answered, lots of opinions expressed. First, the Ford N exhaust manifold is fastened via studs using steel lockwashers and brass hex nuts, never bolts so if you have bolts, somebody replaced them. It's not unusual for a stud to come out when replacing the manifold and if so, exposes the water jacket and you will get wet. If you know you have one or two studs that will come out, you can place a bucket or drain pan under the radiator and open the petcock to drain off a few gallons. When job is complete, simply pour the coolant back in unless it looks like it is severely contaminated with oil then you have another project to perform. The 7/16-20 Brass Hex Nuts are used so they don't freeze up/rust on s with steel, and make it easier to remove when doing the job. I advise to never use Teflon tape on anything on these N's for one, and never use silicon/Permatex type gasket maker stuff on studs. They didn't use this stuff when new; fasteners were always assembled with a minimal drop of plain oil for ease at assembly. If anything, I suggest a very small amount of Anti-Seize, but then if a stud isn't coming out, no need to remove it and worry about it. Sometimes fellas tend to over think things unnecessarily. The brass manifold nuts are spec'd to be torqued at 27 ft/pounds. Don't have a torque wrench? No problem, just tighten as best as you can -you should know your own strength and never over-tighten -you do not need nor use a breaker/cheater bar for this.

your mileage may vary...

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
 
(quoted from post at 08:26:53 02/02/19) Yes, some questions answered, lots of opinions expressed. First, the Ford N exhaust manifold is fastened via studs using steel lockwashers and brass hex nuts, never bolts so if you have bolts, somebody replaced them. It's not unusual for a stud to come out when replacing the manifold and if so, exposes the water jacket and you will get wet. If you know you have one or two studs that will come out, you can place a bucket or drain pan under the radiator and open the petcock to drain off a few gallons. When job is complete, simply pour the coolant back in unless it looks like it is severely contaminated with oil then you have another project to perform. The 7/16-20 Brass Hex Nuts are used so they don't freeze up/rust on s with steel, and make it easier to remove when doing the job. I advise to never use Teflon tape on anything on these N's for one, and never use silicon/Permatex type gasket maker stuff on studs. They didn't use this stuff when new; fasteners were always assembled with a minimal drop of plain oil for ease at assembly. If anything, I suggest a very small amount of Anti-Seize, but then if a stud isn't coming out, no need to remove it and worry about it. Sometimes fellas tend to over think things unnecessarily. The brass manifold nuts are spec'd to be torqued at 27 ft/pounds. Don't have a torque wrench? No problem, just tighten as best as you can -you should know your own strength and never over-tighten -you do not need nor use a breaker/cheater bar for this.

your mileage may vary...

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)


Tim, I don't think that we should let ourselves be limited or governed too much by how things were done or by what materials were used, when these tractors were being built because chances are that Henry himself would be specifying very different materials, methods, and components if he were building them today. Virtually everything used today in the line of sealants and adhesives was unthought of back then. It was often said that old horses were being taken to the "glue factory"
 
(quoted from post at 02:35:45 02/03/19)
(quoted from post at 08:26:53 02/02/19) Yes, some questions answered, lots of opinions expressed. First, the Ford N exhaust manifold is fastened via studs using steel lockwashers and brass hex nuts, never bolts so if you have bolts, somebody replaced them. It's not unusual for a stud to come out when replacing the manifold and if so, exposes the water jacket and you will get wet. If you know you have one or two studs that will come out, you can place a bucket or drain pan under the radiator and open the petcock to drain off a few gallons. When job is complete, simply pour the coolant back in unless it looks like it is severely contaminated with oil then you have another project to perform. The 7/16-20 Brass Hex Nuts are used so they don't freeze up/rust on s with steel, and make it easier to remove when doing the job. I advise to never use Teflon tape on anything on these N's for one, and never use silicon/Permatex type gasket maker stuff on studs. They didn't use this stuff when new; fasteners were always assembled with a minimal drop of plain oil for ease at assembly. If anything, I suggest a very small amount of Anti-Seize, but then if a stud isn't coming out, no need to remove it and worry about it. Sometimes fellas tend to over think things unnecessarily. The brass manifold nuts are spec'd to be torqued at 27 ft/pounds. Don't have a torque wrench? No problem, just tighten as best as you can -you should know your own strength and never over-tighten -you do not need nor use a breaker/cheater bar for this.

your mileage may vary...

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)


Tim, I don't think that we should let ourselves be limited or governed too much by how things were done or by what materials were used, when these tractors were being built because chances are that Henry himself would be specifying very different materials, methods, and components if he were building them today. Virtually everything used today in the line of sealants and adhesives was unthought of back then. It was often said that old horses were being taken to the "glue factory"

All the hoop la is wonderful but it taint new anymore... If I rebuild you engine and it leaves leak'N from a head bolt are a zaust stud Who's the fool for not making sure it dose not leak... Does saying that's the way Henry did it make it actseptable... BTW good and snug on the studs don't stress the block...
 
Bear in mind it wasn't how Henry built it -he couldn't read a blueprint. Once Henry fulfilled his dream projects he moved on. It was the engineers who did all the grunt work. Ford had most of the best people working there. I'm just saying modernization/technology ain't always a good thing. I've done a few rebuilds and such and never used any silicone or as Dell use to say 'stud puckey' and never had issues.

TPD
 

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