Ford 4500 industrial deisel stuck?

bookel

New User
Was running it the other day. It stopped running as I was releasing the clutch to move forward. Engine died. I cranked it again and moved around a few minutes. Then it died while trying to move forward again. Not sure but the engine seemed a little weak but could be me. It was very cold out and hadn't run it for a month or so before this so I assumed it was just not warmed up yet.
After the engine died the second time I tried to crank it again. This time I can hear the starter clunk to the flywheel but will not turn it. I used my Deutz to jump it with cables. It would not turn. I let it charge from the deutz a half and hour and tried again with no change.
After I pulled the Ford out of the way I pulled the starter and hit the ignition. The gear pops forward and spins like it should. To be sure I put a spare starter I know is good on. No change. I pulled the starter again and got a prybar on the flywheel. I got the flywheel to turn in one direction. If you are sitting in the seat looking forward the flywheel turned clockwise. When I first tried I was trying to turn it counter clockwise but couldn't get it to move. I thought maybe I couldn't get enough leverage in that direction. But it may be a deeper issue. How can I access the pistons from the top to monitor for movement when I turn the flywheel. I've read pulling the oil pan is a major job requiring moving the front axle.
I also took the batter to a shop and had it tested and it passed as good just so I'd know.
 
If you can't turn the flywheel ring gear with a prybar, that is not a good sign. I think I'd start by draining the oil into a
clean bucket to see what comes out. If you get chunks of bearing material, figure on pulling the entire engine, because the
crank most assuredly is junk, or at least needs to be turned.
 
I will do that.
Is there a simple way to see the pistons move when can turn the flywheel? I know pull spark plugs in a gas engine but on a diesel I don't know.
 
Sometimes water from rain or condensation [not anti-freeze] will build up in the engine or gears and freeze solid. Then you need to do the old Bush plane procedure. Build a "tent" around the lower part of tractor and use a good heat source to warm it up, such as a charcoal fire, or a Knipco heater.

The other possibilities might include hydraulic pumps jamming.
 
You can pull the injectors out, but that would be a waste of time in my opinion. There's no way any of the pistons/rods have
become disconnected from the crank without a LOT of noise prior. And if they did, you'd likely have a nice inspection hole on
the side of the block at around the same time.
 
I agree I should see a rod out of the side of the block if that happened. But just wanted to make sure. However I didn't consider the hydraulic pump locking up could cause this. That thing is connected by small shaft at the front of the engine. I'm going to be working on it in about an hour. It's almost 50 degrees here. So temperature shouldn't be an issue. I'll post back what I find.
 
Was the 4500 in a warm place (above freezing) and then taken out into severe cold? The first winter with my 4500 loader tractor, l had two events where the engine would not turn over at all. Was in an unheated building and temps below zero. I put a tarp over tractor and warmed up with heater and then it turned over fine. A 4500 has a large volume of hydraulic oil and it's hard to work it hard enough with only a loader to evaporate the moisture out of the system. My hydraulic oil was milky when I got the tractor and I think water would separate and freeze in hydraulic pump, preventing the starter from turning the engine. I drained and flushed hydraulic system and no more lock ups as described.
 

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