5600 power steering

Joshb-92

Member
Good Afternoon, I?ve been working on a 5600 tractor?s power
steering. I?ve had it apart down to the bottom segment with the
28 ball bearings. I finally had time to get it back together to run
it today. I noticed that when turning it stop to stop, side to side
it turns well other then it feels like when cutting it to the left it
hits a little spot that seems somewhat rough momentarily. Also
it seems like it gets a little tougher to turn as it gets close to
the end of its turning radius side to side but I figure that is
probably where it relieves pressure. Also I noticed when
turning it seems to make somewhat of a squealing noise. Not
very much and nothing crazy, I?ve just noticed it. It?s almost
like the sound you hear when hydraulic oil is being pushed
through a relif valve. I just wondered if anybody had
experienced this and might have some insight into what I?ve
got going. Thank you.
 
I would suggest disconnecting the drag link going to the front end and trying it again. If you don't feel any rough spots when doing the same test, maybe the problem is something hanging up in the front end.

If you can still feel a lump when turning, then I can only suspect that something is hanging up on the inside - maybe a ball bearing dislodged? If it doesn't go away, suggest tearing back down before something scores or gets damaged.
 
Ok. Thank you Bern. Is a little bit of noise from the column as far as a little bit of a wine normal on these tractors? It?s nothing really loud. It almost reminds me of the sound a hydraulic system makes as the pressure exits out of a relief valve or bypass.
 
The relief valve is in the pump, so if you're hearing a similar high-pitched sound coming from the box then no, that is not normal. That said, it is normal to hear "fluid movement" in those boxes. It shouldn't be very loud though.
 
Ok. I appreciate you Bern. I?ll take the drag link loose and try what you mentioned. Hopefully that?s all it is. When it hits a hard spot it doesn?t really feel like it binds up so much as it almost feels like a momentary loss of power steering. Is there anything with the stacked sections with the o-rings in side of the control valve that could cause something similar or somehow cause a restriction of fluid that would make that noise and a loss of pressure?
 
I do know that putting the o-rings on those stacked sections can be a little tricky. If you didn't get them seated all the way, and then bolted the sections together on assembly, it's possible you pinched and/or cut one or more of those o-rings.
 
Ok. That might be my issue then. I ran it and check it out this morning before work. I didn?t have time to pull the drag link yet but I fired it up and cut it back and forth several times. Everything was completely smooth and noise free for the first 5 or 6 turns back and forth then the noise from the column started to be noticeable then after about 20 times back and forth the steering felt like it developed that rough spot that I mentioned previously. If it?s shut back off and sets then you run it later it is fine again and goes through the same sequence of acting up after it?s turned several times. It makes me think that hopefully all of the bearings are in place because I imagine it would act up all the time if I had a bearing dislodged. It?s just made me wonder what would act up only when it?s been turned quite a few times. Maybe fluid warming and thinning and bypassing one of those o rings like you were speaking of?
 
Yah, that?s kind of what I was thinking toward. As far as the fluid level at the pump everything looks full. The manual said the system is self bleeding and to cut wheels from side to side and fill as necessary. When I put it back together the pump canister was completely empty because I changed the filter as well. So I filled the canister to a reasonable level then disabled the tractor from starting by cracking all the injector lines and cranking the tractor over then topping the level off and cranking it again. I went through this sequence 5-6 times then I retightened the injector lines and fired it up and cut the wheels stop to stop multiple times and topped off the level. Is there any other bleed procedure that you know of? Also I?m working on this for a family friend and they provided hydraulic fluid to fill the system. It?s of the cheap economy variety. Is there a possibility that the cheap hydraulic fluid could be aerating and causing this issue?
 
Cheap fluid wouldn't help matters any. That said, the system is pretty much self bleeding. As long as the reservoir is nearly full, there's no other way to get rid of any air in the system.
 
Ok. Thanks for your help Bern. A little bit of an update on it. I just had time this morning to get out and drive it around the field. When turning left everything is excellent, however when turning right she makes the sound of fluid bypassing and feels like she has maybe 50 percent power steering. Could it cut one way perfect but not the other if a ball bearing was dislodged? Or does that sound to you like I?ve probably just got a o ring in the control valve pinched or unseated and it?s bypassing in that direction and dropping out pressure? Sorry to ask so many questions, hopefully I?m not wearing you out with them. I?m just trying to make a decision now since I know there is a problem. If it?s in the valve I?ve already got another o ring kit and I can just pull the valve back off and reseal and stack everything. However if it?s likely a bearing I?m thinking I might be better to pull the gearbox off of the tractor and take it in the garage where I have better light and a little heat and pull it all the way back down and start again. Thanks
 
If you had a bearing ball dislodged, you wouldn't have a full turning angle in one direction because of the internal interference in the ball nut. Based on your description, it sure sounds to me like a damaged o-ring. If you take a close look at the theory of operation, alternate ends of that valve are pressurized depending on which direction you are turning, so a damaged seal is the most likely, meaning you can repair it without having to take the box completely out. Taking the steering wheel and rear hood off will be the hardest part of the job.
 

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