Ignition Nightmare 2: THE RETURN OF THE SPUTTER

Hoping someone can help me figure out this never ending nightmare. It's on a Ford 860 that I converted to 12v last fall.

I believe the tractor had spark issues not too long after I converted to 12v. I changed the condenser and it went right back to normal for a week or so, then the condenser blew again. Figuring it was just a junk part from China, I tried another and away I went.

Now that we finally have snow to plow, the issue has resurfaced. This time I replaced the condenser & coil (which was out of spec) with Napa parts, and rebuilt everything from the coil forward, including the primary screw and added new points. It worked perfectly right after I finished and was able to plow without issue.

Today, 2 days later, the tractor started right up and warmed nicely, until I started to leave the barn, and it went right back to the sputter and spit...

I'm getting intermittent spark from the coil terminal, and a jumper from Battery to the coil doesn't help at all.

Thanks in advance!

Have you taken a good look at the insulator block in the distributor where the hot wire from the coil connects to the points? those can be a sneaky problem.

When I took everything apart a couple days back, I repaired the copper tab that goes from the primary screw to the points (it started to tear)but reused the old felt/cloth washer. The rubber grommet was obviously dried a bit with age but wasn't crumbling so I figured I was good.

I assume the issue there is the primary screw with the neg lead from the coil shorting to ground?

You might check coil case to ground. I a case where the coil mount bolt was loose engine acted much like yours.

(quoted from post at 13:50:28 01/23/19) When I took everything apart a couple days back, I repaired the copper tab that goes from the primary screw to the points (it started to tear)but reused the old felt/cloth washer. The rubber grommet was obviously dried a bit with age but wasn't crumbling so I figured I was good.

I assume the issue there is the primary screw with the neg lead from the coil shorting to ground?

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Yeah, they tend to arc out and short to the distributor body when the get hard, oil soaked or damaged. Then you end up with a weak and/or intermittent spark to the plugs. Both this site and NAPA (for one) handle the $5 cure.

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/350032KIT_Distributor-Power-Inlet-Screw-Kit_29051.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQiAvqDiBRDAARIsADWh5Te2LMA_0wyqg0etVLhHNwL4WinonA0lPOmYOkJozV3M8RfBlxvitQ0aAiD6EALw_wcB

Thanks! Any idea what the NAPA # is? I can't find it for the life of me. I'd like to support this great site but my wife's car is snowed in and I really need to get this drive cleared today.

Make a jumper from the battery to the distributor. Now is the trouble downstream (distributor) or up stream,like the (ignition switch?) Don't forget to unhook the wire when done.!!!

(quoted from post at 15:48:54 01/23/19)
Thanks! Any idea what the NAPA # is? I can't find it for the life of me. I'd like to support this great site but my wife's car is snowed in and I really need to get this drive cleared today.

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I spent about 10 minutes checking NAPA site, they don't list that insulator kit any more. I think it's the same as used on the old Holley distributors for flathead fords, but not sure. All I see now is mail order items. Anyone else got a brainstorm?

I spent about 10 minutes checking NAPA site, they don't list that insulator kit any more. I think it's the same as used on the old Holley distributors for flathead fords, but not sure. All I see now is mail order items. Anyone else got a brainstorm?

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Thanks, I appreciate the effort!

Turns out the local parts place had what they thought would be a substitute, FDL-46, which is just a wire with a rubber bushing attached. It does not quite fit in the hole, but I'm thinking I can fashion something like it, at least to see if it solves my issue and give the new parts time to come in.

Good luck. There's some info at the link below that may be of help. (Late 8N's distributor uses the same parts, I think.)

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=nboard&th=1030808

Don't know what caused the blank post. Anyway, take a look at the link below. Late 8N's use same distributor parts, I think.



https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=nboard&th=1030808

How is the radial play on the distributor shaft bushing? The spec is 0.002". the tractor will run like a three legged dog if that bushing is worn out and will eventually not run at all. It"s worth checking.

(quoted from post at 16:34:21 01/24/19) How is the radial play on the distributor shaft bushing? The spec is 0.002". the tractor will run like a three legged dog if that bushing is worn out and will eventually not run at all. It"s worth checking.

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Shoot! I didn't see this before I started a new thread! Could you provide me with a few details on how to check that?


For future reference, I replaced the primary screw & copper tab with a wire from the points directly to the coil. I used the old bushing and a little hot glue to keep the wire from moving and debris out of the distributor. That seemed to fix my issue with the primary circuit.