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Ford 841 won't keep running

G

gyroman

New User
I have a Ford 841 row crop 4 cyl. gas engine. It has power steering and a 4 speed.
My problem is it will run rough for about 20 sec. backfire and die. I have checked all
the routine stuff gas,plugs,points,etc. they look good. I was wondering if it could
be a stuck valve, I don't really know what to check next, any suggestions will be greatly
appreciated. Thanks
 
With one stuck valve, it would still run. Maybe start hard and run
poorly, but it would run. Have you checked the firing order?
Put #1 cylinder on TDC of compression stroke, see where the rotor
points on the cap, put #1 spark plug wire on that terminal and wire
it 1-2-4-3 from there if it isn't already.
 

Gyroman, welcome to YT!! First an FYI, you do not have an 841 row-crop because the 841is a standard or utility. Some additional information can help. What is the procedure that you are following to start it?
 
Is it 6 volt or has it been converted over to 12 volt? Did you do a compression check? If so what were the results of that test? How's the battery/charging system? Wiring harness? Coil getting hot? Is this a recent event that occurred after the tractor had been running fine? Is there still gas in the carburetor after it stops running? Has the carburetor been rebuild recently? Are there any kinks or obstructions in the fuel line? Can you keep it running by misting it with a little bit of fuel via the carburetor?
 
Thanks for the quick replies. To help in my problem here is some more info. I converted it to 12 volts 25 years ago. I did not do a compression
test but I was thinking about that idea. I would first go borrow one from the auto parts store. The battery/ charging system is working and I
keep a tender on it. The tractor was running fine when I put it up this fall, now I went out to start it for the snow and it ran fine for the first minute and then started to run rough and quit. I keep stable in it in the winter when not used as often. The carb. has not been rebuilt.
I also thought maybe the float was sticking closed but I thought it would just die if that was the case, like when I turn the gas off. I took off the sediment bowl and made sure gas was flowing and no obstuctions. I tried squirting some either in the air intake and it didn't help.
THANKS AGAIN
 

First I want to know about the name gyroman, does it have anything to do with Greek food?
When it dies does it start back right away or does it not start at all? Is it doing this backfire and die at an idle or under power? Did you do the easiest thing and drain and refill with fresh fuel?
 
I give it a little choke when starting and after it starts I usually don't need any choke, but this time I am trying
I give it a little choke to see if it helps to keep it running.
 
I use gyroman because I repaired them for 40+ years. When it dies I have to crank for 10 sec. then it starts
but runs rough. It backfires when it is barely running, it never gets up to full power. It doesn't actually
run up to full power, it just spits and sputters barely running gives a backfire and dies. I'm afraid if I
keep trying to make it run I will damage something inside the engine.
Thanks for all info
 
I am going to go get a compression tester tomorrow, also look at everything again. Check for
good sparks from plugs etc. Thanks Guys
 
Your tractors symptoms sound identical to some I had not long ago. I just rebuilt my motor on my 860 and went to fire it up for the first time. It would run and then spit and shut down. If I tried to give it any amount of throttle it wouldn't handle it and it would cause it to shut down even faster. After 2 carburetor rebuilds and thinking I had a fuel delivery issue, I replaced my brand new points and coil with a new one of each. Problem solved.

I couldn't believe at the time that my brand new parts had failed because they all looked like they were in great shape as they should have.

Keep it simple and you may be pleasantly surprised
 
I think you got a bullseye. Mine is doing exactly the same thing. I checked the compression which was good, it acted just like yours did, so I checked the spark from the wire to the plug and they looked pretty weak. So I can just change the points, condenser, coil, dist.cap.
Thanks for all the replies you never know when a little idea might help.
 

FYI, I've had the best luck at NAPA for Ford ignition parts.

Points - Blue Streak #fd-8081x or Echlin #cs753
Condenser - NAPA #fa-66 or Blue Streak #fd-75x
Rotor - NAPA #fa67
Distributor cap - NAPA #fa-352
Plugs - Autolite 437

I can also tell you what sucks: The TSC Ford tuneup pack and most of the Ebay "kits" for tuning up 134 or 172 C.I. engines.

This will probably start an argument. . . . .
 
"I can also tell you what sucks: The TSC Ford tuneup pack"

"This will probably start an argument. . . . ."

Certainly no argument here! I buy my ignition parts from my local
parts store as well. They sell Blue Streak and my local NAPA does not.
 
(quoted from post at 13:34:05 01/19/19)
FYI, I've had the best luck at NAPA for Ford ignition parts.

Points - Blue Streak #fd-8081x or Echlin #cs753
Condenser - NAPA #fa-66 or Blue Streak #fd-75x
Rotor - NAPA #fa67
Distributor cap - NAPA #fa-352
Plugs - Autolite 437

I can also tell you what sucks: The TSC Ford tuneup pack and most of the Ebay "kits" for tuning up 134 or 172 C.I. engines.

This will probably start an argument. . . . .
Click to expand...


I 1000% agree with this. My prior parts were from TSC and my second round the parts were all from Napa
 
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