Ford 640 - Lift Arms not going up or down...

Recently picked up this tractor..
Repaired the lever that allows the lift arms to move up and down because it was broken..

Changed all fluids including hydraulic fluid.
Start the tractor / move the up down lever and nothing.

Lift arms probably haven't been used in years.
Has anyone had any luck applying air pressure to the dip stick hole to prime the hydraulic pump and if so..
is this way of priming the pump common?

Looked but don't see a bleeder screw anywhere on pump? which is weird...

I don't plan on using the lift arms for anything just yet but figured it's the only thing not functioning on this ole 55 Ford.. might as well fix it.
 
We just dealt with same issue on a 640. Saw the video on YouTube about blowing air in dipstick hole. Seems to work. Also we bled air out of plug on top of pump,on side of motor. Don't take it all the way out unless you wanna bathe it fluid!! We had taken hydraulic cover off and didn't change 0 rings when we put it back on. Going ok now .
 

I've never tried the air pressure thing, but understand it does work.

Does your tractor have the vane style pump, perhaps? I believe a '55 would be old enough to have originally been equipped this way.

Unless you have an aftermarket pump of some kind, there should be a plug you can remove to prime it. A vane type pump should have this plug on the lower right front side of the center housing, whereas the piston pump will have it on top front.

Contrary to Grandpa Love's advice, I completely remove the plug for priming. You will not get an oil bath if pull the coil wire (gasoline) or leave the injection pump shut off (diesel) and simply bump the starter until the pump is primed.
 
When I prime the pump. I remove the plug in the pump and attach a clear rubber hose to the pump and then remove the filler plug under the seat. Put the other end of the hose in the filler hole.
Start it up and let it run till I don't see any air bubbles in the hose.
 
Thank you to both of you gentlemen..

Well appreciate the info.

I'll try blowing air in the dip stick and look for a plug again but didn't see it first time around.
 
I removed the top cover of the hydraulic chamber.
The control valve was stuck as in frozen so when you moved the control lever up or down the control valve was not moving / sliding horizontally.

I ordered the gasket kit from this website, rebuilt the control valve, the unloading valve and put new rings on the big 3 inch piston. Other then lifting the heavy cover off the tractor this job wasn't bad at all to do.

Even removing the unloading valve PLUG wasn't bad.
I used a fine threaded bolt and a series of large washers for a puller and the plug came right out.

Everything works beautiful now.



 

You're very welcome..
I enjoyed the project.
I think now that everything is functioning beautiful mechanically and hydraulics I'll fix the spot light in the rear, do a rewire, new switch then install some flood/spot lights up front pointing forward.

Once that's done I'll have the starter and generator rebuilt just for the heck of it. They are working good now but figured what the heck.. might as well get them done over so there isn't much to rebuild inside, paint em all up and stick em back on there.
I might take my tractor to a tractor show in the spring. Gotta have it looking good. :)

If anyone had any questions about the job I did on the hydraulics feel free to contact me anytime. If you want to get on the phone just private message me your number and I'll call you.
Take care all.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top