ford 7710 dual power

got a ford 7710 model number fc315m will not move it acts like it want to but it won't move. The clutch is good it's in the dual power. When I put air in dual power line you can hear the air going straight into the rear end. when you shift dual power you can hear cynoid move and within few minutes you can hear the air into rear end again. I split the tractor and got the dual power on the work bench. the flat split oring between the oil gally looks good and took fitting of pressure line and can blow thru filter does anyone know how it comes apart or have drawing or have any idea what would cause this I am trying to tear it down to check clutch discs in there. also on the bench when you shift the collar back and forth it doesn't seem to lock up you can turn input shaft separate from output

I have had the dual power in my 9000 apart twice. It sounds like yours has a lot of different parts to it from what mine has. What is the cynoid? what do you mean by "beside oil gally? what does "took fitting of pressure line" mean? What filter?

I think he means solenoid 10 series tractor used a solenoid the shift the dual power IT FO42 manual covers 7710 dual power.

Here's a link to the parts drawing for the dual power on a 7710:

[u:3a9fbccdae]https://partstore.agriculture.newho...&sl=EN&currency=#epc::mr60574ar396324[/u:3a9fbccdae]
 
 
 

Sorry I misspelled solenoid and on the presssure
inlet of the dual power there is a small screen filter I
had read on another post to check there it is known
to plug, mine was clean.

To update we took the clutch pack hooked to the planetary apart and the clutch?s sre fried Blue and little to no lining left on them. The snap ring holding them on came right off without pressing I m goin with this is why it was slipping on the one side but still lost why it was slipping on other side. Shouldn?t it always be locked up, either through planetary or direct? Like on the bench I can turn input shaft and hold output shaft stationary with shift collar in any position

(quoted from post at 21:39:26 01/12/19) To update we took the clutch pack hooked to the planetary apart and the clutch?s sre fried Blue and little to no lining left on them. The snap ring holding them on came right off without pressing I m goin with this is why it was slipping on the one side but still lost why it was slipping on other side. Shouldn?t it always be locked up, either through planetary or direct? Like on the bench I can turn input shaft and hold output shaft stationary with shift collar in any position

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Jim, I expect that your fried plates were not the problem but were instead caused by your problem. The inner, smaller pack is your low or power drive. I bet that your seal way at the back (part 42) was leaking, preventing the hydraulic pressure from being strong enough to hold the clutches together so at some point they suddenly started to slip and quickly burned up. When they fry like yours did it happens instantaneously. Check those seal rings and also the bearing cup or sleeve that they ride in. You may find that the cup has major valleys in it. This is actually the place that tends to wear the most in the dual power. Check all of your other seals of course, and check for sludge on the bottom of your tranny, by removing the cover. You can pour fuel in to flush it. The sludge would contribute to wear of that main seal. When you get it back together you need to check hydraulic pressure as you shift it. The pressure should drop a fair amount, I will check my book on my 9000 later and post how much it says for that, but it is supposed to bounce right back. Checking pressure can help you see if you are losing elsewhere, such as in the PTO clutch, which could also an underlying problem. You may end up tearing down again after doing the pressure checks. I can't tell you why there was no pressure against the retaining ring except perhaps losing the thickness of six clutch faces would cause some slack.