Ford 3000 loader problems

Hey guys I have a loader problem. I am
adding a rhino model 2408 loafer on a
Ford 3000 tractor. I am using the
hydraulic fluid coming from the adapter
block that they make for the fords. I
have a CGA5A4B1 Directional Control
Valve, Two Spool, 4 Way,?as pictured
below. Now when I bought the loader the
cylinders were very rusted and the owner
admitted never actually using them. He
bought it to add to his tractor. He said
they may need replacing. I have never
done this but I bought all of the
fittings needed and the valve and
everything except mounting the loafer to
the tractor. When I plugged everything
in and started the tractor only the
cylinders that raise the loader would
work and the oil was shooting out of
the cylinders. Excessively. Would that
amount of oil and air escape cause the
bucket not to function? My question is
once I buy 4 new cylinders will my
problem be fixed or did I have something
plugged in wrong? My loader has the 4
hoses separated into 2 groups. One
controlling the bucket and one going to
the arms. There are 4 hoses to connect
to my valve. Does it matter exactly
where they go on the valve? Thanks guys

I wanted to mention the loader arms would only scope out and wouldn't scope in unless the tractor was off. It would only scope in about half way. The bucket would only scope out as well to "dump" it would never retract in.

As viewed on your valve picture the lift cylinder hoses would connect to the valve on the right, and the dump cylinders connect to the valve on the left. It looks like your valve has the float valve on the right.

So either of the lift hoses on the right? Do all 4 matter or just as long as the lift hoses are to the right? The box did say it has the float

Well, yeah, it matters where they go. On the hoses to the cylinders, one hose is pressure, or supply, and the other is return. It’s just like electricity, if you had two lights with two switches to control them and you put two hot wires to each side of one switch and two grounds to the other switch, what do you think will happen?

You need to find a plumbing diagram for your loader.

-Scott

Well, my analogy is a bit off.

If you look at the valve, imagine it as two separate valves, one handle on each valve. One line on that valve will go to each end of the cylinder, the end of the cylinder where the rod comes out will make the cylinder retract, the other will make the cylinder go out. So, the lift cylinders will connect to one “valve” and the bucket cylinders to the other.

For the lift cylinders, “cylinder retract” should be on the top and cylinder out would be on the bottom. That way when you push the lever it will go down, pull it and it will go up.

The bucket cylinders will be the opposite.

The supply line from the tractor will connect to one side and the return to the other.

-Scott

Thank you guys. So on the valve pictured
above the in is on the right and the out
is on the left. So should the lift
cylinder be on the right valve by the in
side ? And the dump be on the left?

That would be up to your preference. It’s pretty standard for the lift to be on the left and the bucket on the right.

-Scott

Thanks man. Do you have any
recommendations on where to buy cheap
cylinders online? Also do I need to tie
anything in to use the float or does it
kick in automatically?

Is this the plumbing diagram you mentioned? This is the book for my specific loader

If you're willing to go with "almost correct" you can buy cylinders at surpluscenter.com. I replaced all of the cylinders on a Freeman loader that I put on my '73 4000 with cylinders from there and they are not an exact match to the originals but they do work fine for my purposes. I don't do loader work all of the time and if I did I would have gone with a loader that was in better shape to begin with and had the original cylinders so they would stand up to heavy use over the long haul, but I've had mine installed for 8 or 9 years now and they're still working fine, albeit with a little slop at the ends where they mount but I keep everything well greased and nothing has worn noticeably.

Measure the length of your cylinders, both fully retracted and fully extended, and the diameter of the housing to get your measurements for closed length, stroke and bore, as those are the 3 measurements that you will be trying to get as close as possible to the original. You also want to go with cylinders that have ends that match the original cylinders in terms of how they would mount. My loader has a single cylinder for the bucket and the one I got as a replacement had eyelets that were bigger than the original so I found some bushings that went inside the eyelets so I could use the original size pins.