NEED a good writeup on removing the 3400 oil pan please

greymond

Member
The rain has come and my 3400 gasser is idle. Due to low compression in the #2 cylinder I decided to do an in frame engine overhaul while it's winter. The manuals I have don't the how to on getting the oil pan out. I understand the front has to slide forward.
My 3400 has the bucket on in.
If anyone has any info on this it would be a great help to me!
thanks
 

There are two studs that bolt the bolster
to the ci pan. You can probably get those
out then loosen the engine to bolster bolts
and slide the bolster forward about 1/8"
There are also two bolts that bolt the back
of the pan to the transmission -
underneath. Then the pan bolts.
What I dont know is if the loader mount
under the radiator will prevent the bolster
from sliding forward that 18" that you
need.
Maybe someone here has dont it and can
weigh in.
It may seem like a lot of work but it might
be easier with the loader off.
 
yes, that is one of the questions I had. I am doing it on semi smooth gravel and I am hoping I don't have to move the front loader forward on some kind of roller deal to separate it from the oil pan?
 
Bite the bullet and take the loader off,you're going to save lots of time in the long run and a whole lot of frustration.
 
Bingo, Mike.

OP needs to remove the FEL to save lots of time and aggravation. Once removed, he can follow Ultradog's advise.

It is not possible to find a ready-made "write-up" for every scenario.

Dean
 
What our techs at the dealership used to do was run the loader arms all the way up and block them, then unbuckle the engine from the trans and roll the front axle/radiator/engine assembly out from between the loader mount. Re-ringing and new bearings is not an "overhaul". That is not a sleeved engine so you cannot do a true in frame as you would say in a semi replacing the sleeve piston assembly. If you are going to try and pull the pistons out the top do you have a ridge reamer that will go out to 4.2+ inches? I would do a leakdown test to see where your problem actually lies. If it is in the cylinders, I'd still remove the head first and see how much taper and out of round there is before determining if he block needed to be bored.
 
(quoted from post at 23:02:09 11/30/18) What our techs at the dealership used to do was run the loader arms all the way up and block them, then unbuckle the engine from the trans and roll the front axle/radiator/engine assembly out from between the loader mount. Re-ringing and new bearings is not an "overhaul". That is not a sleeved engine so you cannot do a true in frame as you would say in a semi replacing the sleeve piston assembly. If you are going to try and pull the pistons out the top do you have a ridge reamer that will go out to 4.2+ inches? I would do a leakdown test to see where your problem actually lies. If it is in the cylinders, I'd still remove the head first and see how much taper and out of round there is before determining if he block needed to be bored.

I plan on pulling the pistons with the block in place. I'm hoping a standard piston and ring with a hone job will take care of it. But that remains to be seen. I did a compression test on it early in the summer and each cylinder was low. Lower than allowed. I don't have the numbers in front of me. I also did a leak down test and air was getting by the rings and out the breather and dipstick.
Once the loader is either blocked or replaced how much of an ordeal is it to pull the entire block out?
 
I just reringed the engine and new bearings on my father's 3000. It should have come out and been bored. You
will be tempted to short cut the job and be disappointed in the long run. If you have compression problems,
new rings in out of round/tapered cylinders will not fix it.
 
That said, if compression is still low, valve job and compression test both properly done, low compression must be result of piston/cylinder leakage.

A leak down test is indicated.

Dean
 
(quoted from post at 03:40:46 12/01/18) That said, if compression is still low, valve job and compression test both properly done, low compression must be result of piston/cylinder leakage.

A leak down test is indicated.

Dean
believe me, the last thing I want to do is tear down the motor of this old ford tractor. I wish it was the head. The proper tests were done. All indications are the cylinders.
Ive done well over 100 engine overhauls, removals and installs, and diagnosis but never on something like this ford.
 
I'm probably just a schlock mechanic but...
When I first got my 3000 the engine was
pretty tired. I never did a compression
test on it but could tell it was low.
I had the head done, reamed the ridge,
honed it out good and put new rings and rod
bearings in it.
It spruced that engine up a LOT.
I ran that engine my usual 100 hrs/yr for
about 3 years.
Could have run it a lot longer but then I
found a brand New school engine so I put
that in it and sold/traded my old one to my
pal Kenny as a rebuilder.
Now I do know that if you want an engine to
last for 40 years then you need to do the
job right and do a complete reman on it.
Kenny did the job right - and spent about
$1400 on it not including the head which
was still essentially fresh.
I spent about $500 on it including the
head.
If you are building for posterity then go
with a reman.
If you're looking for cheap horsepower -
and don't mind diving into the engine again
someday - then an inframe is an acceptable
alternative.
PS, to continue the story on my 3000,
I ran that new engine for 4? years then put
it in another 3000 and sold it.
Then I found a brand new school engine, a
diesel this time and converted the tractor
over to diesel.
It's what I'm running now.
 
I appreciate that post. I hopefully can get away with just a freshen up with new pistons, rings, bearings etc. I don't use this rig all that much. Just enough to appreciate how useful its but not enough to let it in the house LOL.
Doing the motor on it doesn't seem to be all that involved. Getting the loader off, however, is another story. Hopefully I can lift that bucket and slide it forward just enough without having to remove the loader.
 
Just for grins...change the oil and throw a bottle of
?Engine Restore? in it and re-test compression after
some hours have been put on the engine.

Saw more than one video where it solved issues
where just one cylinder is low on compression.
Don?t know if it had to do with rings seating or stuck
rings being freed up, but it can apparently work.
 
GreyM,

That pan is heavy and awkward, use a jack to lower it.

Pull that loader and the difficult job will just be tricky rather than tricky and dangerous.

I did my 3400 gasser a year or two back. I was able to get all the parts for a full rebuild (bore, pistons, crank turned etc) and it set me back about $1600 parts and machining. I figured I only wanted to go into the motor once.
 
$1600 is a little more than I wanted to spend. I'll most likely to the in frame spruce up. And per the good advice I get on this site I will most likely pull the loader off. Once I figure out how to do it :)
 

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