SOS traction coupling too far on front shaft

sue metz · Nov 16, 2018

The Traction sleeve coupling is too far on front shaft to engauge transmission...I got stuck and turned the lever to the right to tow then after re starting tractor I guess I turned the lever too much.. I opened the housing and can see the coupling but can not move. the front shaft will move forward and reverse when tractor is running and proper gears are selected using the handle on the selector assembly... so I do not think a clutch went bad etc...
Not a lot of space to get any leverage on the coupling..impact wrench from top??
Thanks Sue
I have a picture but somehow can't post it here

Sean in PA · Nov 16, 2018

Your picture did post.

You should always mention which model tractor you're asking about as there were a few different ones that had the S-O-S transmission, although the coupling for the traction disconnect should be similar on all of them. The sliding collar should have a narrower section in the center that the linkage from the handle engages to slide the collar forward and aft. I can't tell from your picture as it is zoomed too far in, is that narrower section of the collar accessible, or is it slid too far to the front to that it's not even visible?

fredstev · Nov 16, 2018

I came very close to doing this to my traction disconnect a few years ago. My sleeve is worn enough that the lever disconnects it easily, but is very fiddly to reconnect with the lever due to the fact the sleeve kind of sags when attempting to reengage. I usually have to take the side cover off and engage the sleeve by hand. I don't believe my transmission splined shaft sticks out as far as yours though.

At any rate, could you use a couple of magnetic pickup tools to latch onto the sleeve? Or maybe tease it out with dental picks? It should move freely, just that you don't have anything to grab right now.

fredstev · Nov 16, 2018

Looked at your pic more closely, and believe the coupling is visible at far left of pic. Might be stuck on end of transmission splines. Just give it a few taps toward the final drive spline with a small hammer. You may have to move the back wheel slightly to line up the splines. It'll go. Been there, done that.

sue metz · Nov 17, 2018

(reply to post at 21:39:49 11/16/18)

sue metz · Nov 17, 2018

Yes you are correct...the coupler is barely seen in pic at left ... no movement at all.. tried a pry bar no go hard spot to get to.. may have to take top plate off to get enough contact .. gonna try a air hammer today but hard to get good contact I got the tractor stuck moving hay... disengaged to pull out and then when re engaging moved forward then ok in reverse I guess I turned the coupling mechanism to push to far forward prior to locking in correct position cause she stopped moving then could not turn lever.....took off plate and saw coupler but can not manually re engage .....seems pretty tight. Good news is that I started the tractor and transmission moves thru all gears ok I can feel the front shaft turning with my hand...Yes I know this tractor could kill me but since rear tires are not "hooked" up can't run over me ...
Which is why I was sitting on the tractor when I tried to reengage transmission..mistake
thanks you for your help...come up with any other ideas let me know
thanks Sue

sue metz · Nov 17, 2018

the narrow portion of the coupler is recessed about 1/2 back towards front on the shaft...I tried using a pry bar and banging on it with a hammer ..no go pretty tight not sure what to do know ... try an air hammer or then take off seat and top plate for better access... the way it is hard to access to get good contact
thanks for the help any ideas let me know..may just sell it.
Thanks you Sue

fredstev · Nov 17, 2018

Well, I think that what happened is the coupling is jammed forward into the transmission splines far enough that it is wedged tight. Take a look at the splined shaft for the final drive. The transmission shaft is machined exactly the same way. you need to find something like a wonder bar that will hook into the collar where the lever engages and smack it back toward the final drive shaft.

You'll get it, you just have to come up with a tool that lets you hook into the collar and yank toward the back of the tractor.

sue metz · Nov 17, 2018

(quoted from post at 12:36:41 11/17/18)
Well, I think that what happened is the coupling is jammed forward into the transmission splines far enough that it is wedged tight. Take a look at the splined shaft for the final drive. The transmission shaft is machined exactly the same way. you need to find something like a wonder bar that will hook into the collar where the lever engages and smack it back toward the final drive shaft.

You'll get it, you just have to come up with a tool that lets you hook into the collar and yank toward the back of the tractor.

Hope so gonna try and use a air hammer today tried the wonder bar and hammer yesterday no budge and hurt my hands
thanks .. also thinking of using a "puller in reverse some how wrap a small chain or strap around the " collar" and pull backwards from back spline " maybe"

Larry NCKS · Nov 17, 2018

(reply to post at 14:50:06 11/16/18 )

Just for future reference: There is no need to use the traction disconnect to tow a stuck tractor. In the absence of a helper, just start the engine and put the selector lever in neutral.

As has been at least alluded to, you've wedged your connector onto your transmission output shaft tight enough it's difficult to move. I've been able to catch a four foot wrecking bar in the eccentric groove, working through the round inspection cover on the left side, and break them loose on pre-65 models.

Also, just so you know, you're working on the opposite end of your transmission from your bell housing.

sue metz · Nov 17, 2018

wasn't sure what to call the opening not bell housing thats where the flywheel is ok ... anyway if I try and wrap a chain around the groove .. then what do i attach the other end to??
whole and then a come along or something ...afraid that angle would pull on front shaft?? or do you attach the other end of the chain to the back shaft and it twists off ??

Thanks Sue....not sure air hammer I have is strong enough

Larry NCKS · Nov 17, 2018

(quoted from post at 10:14:01 11/17/18) anyway if I try and wrap a chain around the groove .. then what do i attach the other end to??
whole and then a come along or something ...afraid that angle would pull on front shaft?? or do you attach the other end of the chain to the back shaft and it twists off ??

Chain??? I doubt that'll work. If you do manage to get it attached to both shafts, it'll be more likely to drive the pinion shaft than dislodge the TD coupler.

You're coupler needs more of a pop to break it loose. A pull just doesn't affect the same energy.

My late '62 4000 came back from my Ford dealership (they were working on my hydraulic deck and in the process got the TD eccentric dislodged from the coupler some how) to pop the TD apart and wedge it on the output shaft like yours. This has been years, but I believe I used a 4 foot wrecking bar through the access cover and forced it loose.

Your transmission output shaft should be bearing well enough not to hurt it with too muchj pressure.

sue metz · Nov 17, 2018

(reply to post at 16:36:05 11/17/18)

GOT IT!!!!!! GOT IT!!!
I ended up taking off my towing hitch to my truck.. fit exactly into the groove at the correct angle and heavy and i put a 1/1/2 wrench inside as a handle to hold it up wacked it with back of an ax and bingo bango loosened right up...my pry bar was way to light and a regular hammer just didn't transfer enough force except to my hand .......Great I need to move hay before tomorrows rain
Gonna pull it out with a cable so not too close too mud... I am so Happy
Thanks
Sue

Larry NCKS · Nov 17, 2018

(reply to post at 12:46:35 11/17/18 )

Glad you got it done! Thanks for sharing this with us. Happy and blessed Thanksgiving!

fredstev · Nov 17, 2018

Excellent!

SOS traction coupling too far on front shaft

sue metz

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Sean in PA

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